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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    My bet is that the radiator or water pump or state of bleeding of the system are sad.
  2. GTSBoy
    There's at least a big chunk of the problem.
  3. GTSBoy
    Is the AC fan working?
  4. GTSBoy
    Good for 20 years, or when the next piece of the VQ shits itself, whichever comes first.
  5. GTSBoy
    Natch.
  6. GTSBoy
    I've never had any trouble.
  7. GTSBoy
    I have decided to not participate in this discussion any further. Please consider this an act of social distancing, to prevent the risk of infection.
  8. GTSBoy
    What? Just buy the appropriate Ryco filter (or equivalent), pull the old one out and stick the new one in. No need to bleed lines or f**k about with priming. If you really want to "prime" anything, just turn the key on and wait for the pump to stop. Then turn it all off, wait a bit, and repeat. The ECU will do it all for you. If you are going to start stuffing about with replacing lines, then yes, it does need to be high pressure rated fuel line. And if you're going to replacing fuel line, don't cut anything, just pull it all the way off and replace from hard pipe to hard pipe.
  9. GTSBoy
    You can't. And forfuxsake don't put bloody HCl on there!
  10. GTSBoy
    We're Australian. We don't buy kits. We buy bits.
  11. GTSBoy
    Anything will do. It's fine, along wih about 300 other options. Anything will do here too. Only if the gearbox needs help shifting. Do not use it in a healthy box. Anything will do here too. Just so long as it is for LSDs.
  12. GTSBoy
    Black. Black is the correct answer, regardless of car colour.
  13. GTSBoy
    a/t means Automatic Transmission. A good clue that something is f**ked down there. You don't blow fuses for no reason. Have you tried searching for "reverse switch auto" on here?
  14. GTSBoy
    You have a vacuum leak somewhere, possibly an exhaust leak. Get yourself a piece of garden hose and go listening. This stuff is not so hard.
  15. GTSBoy
    2nd hand ones used to change hands for more than the new ones do now. Just buy new. 2nd hand ones are all 3s away from breaking again anyway.
  16. GTSBoy
    That RX looks straight out of the Cars animated film.
  17. GTSBoy
    I thought the MC's sensor had a plug dangling on 2 wires, not hard mounted into the MC. That's the bit I was talking about. But a quick google image search shows me I was mistaken......hmmm. Contact ABS or other equivalent brake shop to see what they know and/or can get?
  18. GTSBoy
    Take off sump. look for oil squirters. Other, less thorough option is to see if the injectors are DE or DET. Or you could look at the ECU's part number.
  19. GTSBoy
    What's wrong with cutting the OEM connector off and replacing with Deutsch equivalent? At least as good, probably better than original. Obtainable without stress, etc etc.
  20. GTSBoy
    Good stuff. That almost certainly would have been k ohms. As in 1240 ohms.
  21. GTSBoy
    I wait until the wheelspin stops.
  22. GTSBoy
    The expected resistance is somewhere between 800 ohms and 2200 ohms. That is why i initially instructed you to choose the 20k range on a multimeter, as it will definitely measure and display those sorts of values. If you try to measure a resistance larger than the range your meter is set to, it will say infinity. So you have to increase the range. You got open circuit at 19-20, which is one of the rears. You need to find that 4 pin plug and test those pairs too.
  23. GTSBoy
    I have trouble believing that all 4 of them are crook. Go down to the loom plugs for each sensor and check there. Follow the linked doc.
  24. GTSBoy
    Don't worry about the shifting guide. You can change up at any speed between idle and redline. The only question after that is whether it will have enough torque to swallow much throttle opening in the next gear> RB20s have little torque, so the answer to that question will be "no" unless you're above about 3k rpm. And just to the right of the speedo is the gauge that will tell you about that. The km to mile conversions are correct enough. Everyone since forever has treated the conversion as 40=60, 50=80, 60=100 and 70=110, to within the accuracy that matters.
  25. GTSBoy
    Too vague. By "on the harness side", he means down at the sensor plugs. Because the 13-14, 15-16 etc tests are done on the harness side, up at the CU. I always resist this suggestion until it is proven that there are no other faults on the car that could fry your friend's ATESSA box.
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