GTSBoy

Yup, search for the other 6*10^16 threads asking the same question.

Same same - unless the GTR ones have an extra flap/hatch to access the ATESSA stuff on the RHS. I can't remember.

Oh heck! I didn't even read that. It's absolutely not true. Not even close. The length of the manifold runner contributes a TINY percentage of the total resistance to flow in the inlet-engine-exhaust-turbo-exhaust flow path. Even if you ignore everything upstream of the exhaust valve, the fraction of the resistance coming from the runner length is almost nil. The only time that the quoted statement is remotely close to being true is when there is the pipe and nothing but the pipe. Like a pipe on the outlet of a fan. And even then it's not true, because there are fixed entry and exit pressure drops associated with any pipe. Time for a thought experiment. Blow through a 6" long drinking straw. Measure the flow. Now do it with a 12" long straw. You won't have half the flow rate.

Head lamp fuses are all present. They're at the top (of the image) of the vertical row of fuses in the centre of the box. The vacant headlamp "big box" is a relay location. Not sure if you need it on that car. There is one at the other end of the fusebox.

Or bad coil wiring that you have disturbed by pulling it apart.

Heat loss can probably be more than sufficiently mitigated with ceramic coating though. I think beyond that, the question is not really amenable to thought experiment. The variables are non-linear and it's not really possible to say which one has the bigger effect at the exact conditions in play. Would make a lovely episode of Engine Masters though.

I haven't done the thing myself (being in a 32 it would be a lot more trouble than I am willing to go through). But I am with those guys^.

Maybe, but there are other options. There are some Australian coilover options which are top notch. Jap stuff tends to be pretty harsh. I know nothing of JRZ in terms of their goodness/reputation, but so long as their dampers are good, then it doesn't matter if that noise is a dud damper or a noisy top ball. There are fixes for both. FWIW, I wouldn't consider a pillowball top on any strut top on a road car. Just not a good choice. There are a few places where it is good to have something with some compliance in it, and that is one of them. Perhaps ask JRZ if they have a rubber top for these things. It's not like you need the extra 0.25mm of stiffness in the rear dampers anyway!

If you're not budgeting on taking the boot to a panel beater to have the holes welded and the whole thing repainted, you're thinking about it correctly anyway.

Either just tape the sensor up out of the way or weld a bung in for it. Neither are difficult nor destructive. As to why Nismo didn't make a spot for it......the original system has one cat, hence one good spot to fit a single sensor. The Nismo system has 2 cats, so it doesn't have a good spot to fit a single sensor. Seeing as fitting such a system implies no longer giving a f**k about trivial things like cat over temp sensors, they took the sensible approach and omitted it. Besides, if you had it, and you had a fault on the other pipe....you wouldn't know. Better to have your ignorance spread evenly over both pipes.

The R32 GTR manual has everything you need. Yes, including the TCU wiring for non-GTR autos. Because it also covers GTS4s, including autos. The AWD and RWD turbo and NA autos are all similar enough wrt the power button and TCU interface. You should consider getting it to a mechanic who has a good diagnostic scanner and find out what codes the TCU might be suffering with.

What do you mean by "return flow"? Do you mean, "Return flow", as in the intercooler itself is set up to take both pipes approaching from the passenger side, or do you mean the FMIC is conventional straight through and then you have to get the cold side pipe up from the driver's side, across the car and back to the stock TB? Because the first way looks fine, but is a bit limited in how much power it can handle, and the second way always looks like balls.

It's time to say the "R". That would be the Golf R.

I don't even bother with torque wrenches. Suspension bolts are done up somewhere between f**king tight and real f**king tight. As hard as you can manage with a breaker bar and a double ended ring spanner is pretty good.

I've typed many thousands of words on this subject into these forums. You should do some searching, 'coz I'm not inclined to type them all again right now. The answers are here though.

Check for a slipped crank pulley. The timing marks could be telling you lies.#1 plug out and screwdriver down the hole looking for TDC would be the first step there. Remember that an RB20 has a switch in the TPS for idle. It doesn't rely on the ~0.45v that the 25s do. Otherwise, your weird issue is weird and will always be something unexpected!

If that's the strut itself, it's no damn good - it's buggered. If it's the spherical joint at the top, then it's unpleasantly noisy and probably shouldn't be that bad. Either way, JRZ will/should come to the party I think.

Solid lifters may never need clearance adjustment. Most good Jap motors never show any wear on the valve train if looked after, and don't suffer valve seat recession either. But....these things can happen. You only need some oil starvation from a blocked gallery to cause a spot to wear. So, no common problems on these, but all the possible problems are possible. Rip the covers off and use feeler gauges to determine the cold clearances and work from there.

But that would be a genuine Nissan one, which would be the best choice and wouldn't need to be opened up for surgery anyway, for the next 20 years at least. Having said that.....if the OP's clutch can be opened, then yes....great. Consider the surgical option.

Yes, you have the opportunity to do it right. Do it right. Having said that....The compression will go up, which may not be a great thing considering how you've gotten to this point in the first place. But I wouldn't worry about valve-piston clearances. It's not like the turbo valves do anything different to the NA valves. Up-down at the same times, etc.

I have the GTR stock BOV on my Neo and it makes the most outrageous farting noise as it slowly closes. Stock air box, but steel turbo inlet and specially opened up trumpet feed into airbox.

Steel on steel bearing at the top will be noisy. (not intended for street/comfort/NVH).

Power doesn't have to come on a separate wire all the way from the battery. There is a large power distribution device in the form of the fusebox itself, and the main cable from the battery (to the fusebox, starter, etc) HAS to also be in the engine bay.... But yes, put a proper fuse into the fuse box if you can. IAT should be just before throttle. Yes.

take it to a workshop that has a Consult (or really, any good diagnostic handset) and plug it in and interrogate the ABS CU. All the CUs are on the Consult bus. Doesn't matter if the ECU is talking on the bus or not, the others will be. Of course, it might matter if the ECU has been changed, because removal of some of the seemingly unrelated parts of the car can cause things to go astray. Kill the traction control throttle and there can be unexpected ABS faults, for example.

....is only typical of aftermarket BOVs that vent to atmosphere. Not typical of compressor bypass valves (which is what you actually have).