Duncan

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Have a look under the car at the slave cylinder. If it points to the rear it is a push clutch. Most likely a push clutch in a conversion, they are cheaper and easier to work with, but no guarantee without checking of course.

Agreed, nothing is really required for heavy foot street use. Oil problems start to show at sustained high revs (where you end up with excess oil in the head) and sustained high gs (where the oil in the sump moves away from the pick up). Put both together like lapping a track and you can get problems. Yep, since it's apart, that is exactly what I would do, plus adding in sump baffles for the standard sump. Minor change but can help a little for little cost.

At 220kw ish pretty much any lightly upgraded clutch will suit. If by more positive you mean it bites more suddenly as you let it out, look at the exedy puck style clutches and their billion copies. I much prefer the progressive feel of a full face clutch like that mantic one, particularly if you don't want to be stalling in traffic all day

Agree. And yes in rb engines (although possibly not rb20?) there will be terminal damage if it breaks; the valves will hit the pistons and be bent requiring major work. As for doing the job....its about the hardest job an untrained person would take on, but as always if you follow the instructions, take it slowly and have the right tools it is perfectly doable. Unfortunately there is a heap of work which is why it is expensive to get done by a workshop.

It's a warning that you are not driving the car properly. Remember to hold the wheel at "quarter to three", and never have a phone in one hand while driving.

Actually Nismo GTRs and N1 spec were different things, the Nismo cars had cosmetic mods only and were reasonably common in the earlier production years. N1 spec was a different story and was different by year depending on Vspec 1 or Vspec 2 base, they also had cosmetic changes but also larger, steel wheel turbos and larger brakes (brembo) on vspec 2. Still, these days everything is getting hard to find, so good score.

I'm sorry if I sound circular, but Nissan used different protocols over different years in different cars in different countries. They designed their Consult machines to understand them and didn't give a flying whether the aftermarket did, or if there is a cheap option to read them 20 years later. They want you to buy a new Tiida or whatever Renault based shitbox they sell today. If you want to read codes on an older car, don't expect someone today is working on cracking that protocol to make it easy and cheap for you. I know that sucks but that is capitalism. In any case, I think this is a red herring dead end blind alley blank wall. Your stalling issue is probably mechanical not ECU related. I applaud your efforts to work it out yourself but I suggest less ECU and more basic mechanical. Does it get the right fuel for the air it actually receives and apply the right timing at idle? ignition or timing issue, air leak, dodgy injector or fuel pressure etc etc

Thanks for the update, and GTSBoy gets a prize. Also, treat your car nicer next time. You own a future classic, not a shitter.

Argh I take that back, you mean 32 gtst not 32 gtr. post up your vin# and I will check 32 GTR number in FAST.

32 gts4 rack will fit. 33 gtr rack I'm not sure, the part numbers are different but that doesn't mean they are not interchangeable. And, funnily enough it may be harder to find 32 parts in jp than aus...they turn over their cars and spares way younger than we do....

Definitely keep hold of those GTR turbos. Can't believe how many I turfed over the years. BTW yes that turbo is expensive (esp in USD), but realistically a properly rebuilt turbo probably does go for 1000, and you need to consider those might be pretty rare these days.

Basically, it's confusing. Nissan call the scanners their dealers have Consult (2,3, or 3+ that I know of). in the 80s and early 90s before they started using OBD ports, they called the nissan proprietary grey diagnostic plug the Consult Port. AFAIK Nissan don't refer to Consult as a protocol, but that doesn't mean people selling aftermarket tools wouldn't do so. Bottom line is that an OBD compliant car provides a minimum specified set of data through an OBD port. Your car, and lots of other older Nissans, are not OBD compliant so your scan tool of choice needs to understand the non-OBD protocol to read messages.

good call. right size, era, style, and has the same ridged castings on the core

that's my bet too. but I can't say I understand what happened to cause it from the description

Welcome Derek, and it would be good to hear more about how the project goes. I take it that is the only pic you have of the turbo? Do you have the exhaust, manifold or intake where they connected to the turbo that you can measure up? The key things to identify it are size, turbo to manifold type (T3, T4 etc), dump pipe size and possibly the intake connections. Hopefully there are people on here with better memories around the older datsun turbos who might be able to assist. I can't see a wastegate and it looks like it is only oil cooled, not water cooled, which probably narrows it down a heap. The core itself also looks pre 90s to me, so probably first generation datsun turbo like fj20, puslar turbo etc

You can always put more torque on something with a large breaker bar than with a rattle gun. If the bar isn't long enough, extend it with something like a jack handle or iron pipe. Also, give it a bit of heat with a blow torch first, and a shock or 2 as well (put socket over bolt, hit firmly with hammer a couple of times) BTW, question we should have asked first....what are you trying to do? Change rear wheel bearings I guess? If so you should undo the control arms and ball joints and remove that big bolt in a vice on a bench. All the other stuff like reinstalling bearings and dust seals will be easier with the hub off the car. And it will have to come off for pressing the centres out anyway

If you are buying new tools to undo stubborn bolts, generally 1/2 sockets and long bars "breaker bars" are the cheapest way. Long spanners exist but you have to buy each size, and they wont always get at the bolt head as they have to be flat against it, with a socket you can use various length extensions to get at the bolt head

The basic OBD pin outs are the same, so you don't miss any messages that the software/reader understands. Depending on car, there are non-standard pins connected as well but they provide non standard data, eg ATTESSA codes in GTRs. Nissan Consults understand all of these combinations although they have a couple of models depending on car year too (2, 3 and 3+ I believe) The problem lies in the software/reader display not knowing how to decode non-standard messages and in my experience its a bit hit and miss. Scan tools that read a wide range of vehicles and have all that R&D are $10-20k. I've had most luck with my nissans with greddy informeter which has supported my OBD Titan, J-ODB Cima and Consult Stagea, didn't get anything from the Leaf though (not that it has an engine). It shows different information for each which reinforces all the different protocols over time need different coding. If you have a one off error code that needs reading and the $20 bluetooth adapters and free software don't show it, by far the best approach is to take it to a mechanic with a good scan tool and just pay up the $100 or whatever they ask, since you should also get guidance on what the actual problem is (or at least next steps in troubleshooting are) No idea why there are so many different approaches, but I think part of the answer lies in the fact these protocols have developed over 25 years, and while US mandate a set of OBD messages, they are a minor slice of the new car market, china buy 5 times as many per year

I don't think it will help too much towards resolving the stalling, but yes, Japanese cars in general, and Nissans in particular, can have an OBD port physically, but not support the OBD protocol. Sometimes that is generically called J(apanese)-OBD but it is not even a country wide standard, each manufacturer and potentially model made decisions about how to implement it. OBD is only standardised in the US, and even then it only requires a specific set of functions, not all the information that might be available within the CAN

Well the good news is a bad ground might stop something working, but it won't break it. Even if a short is caused you should only lose a fuse, not the control unit. There is a ground from the body to the rear subframe that is often removed or broken, particularly if the subframe has been out. That ground missing is the most common cause of the error you saw, but not it this case it seems

Did you check the plugs? It is reasonably likely that you've fixed a problem with the coil packs but if the plugs are already fouled it won't get better until you change them. Or a thousand other potential reasons of course

Personally, I wouldn't be spending my hard earned on for a daily driver unless it was causing a noticeable problem... Something not working fully could have a lot of causes, most of which come down to age/wearing out but not having failed yet. Since the problem is somewhat intermittent it would be hard for a knowledgeable mechanic to track down, let alone someone without familiarity with the systems

Also, the issue could be with corrosion in the external sockets, not inside the unit. Have a look if the pins in the socket needed a clean up. Since the error was earth circuit, the ATTESSA CU pin out will tell you which pin(s) are earth

Manual is on it's way