Duncan

I'm not back near the car until the weekend, I'll get some pics then. I've got a relocator on the block, a separate earls thermostat (with pressure and temp senders) and a large cooler where the AC condenser was. . Even in a race/rally car it ran too cool at times for me, particularly when driving to events or between stages. And the setup help temps well even on 30klm stages at 40o at Targa High Country last year. I previously had the filter upside down in front of the sump and the cooler in the PS wheel well but there isn't a lot of room there for a large cooler and I wanted the thermostat, so I redesigned.

yep. the stock position is horrible. it's like it was designed to leak oil onto the sump, and then later onto the ground in front of a scrutineer

the no mess oil filter secret is to mount it upside down in the gap in front of the diff.

Hmmm I've heard of a few big power/big FWD race cars regularly breaking front diffs including quaife. and once you get the centre stronger you can just break driveshafts instead. just do what everyone else has learned and back off the fwd a bit....you can't win from the side of the track watching everyone drive past

but yes, you need the gtr crownwheel and pinion, not just a centre like Kaaz. bit late to mention....but lots of people start breaking front diffs after trying to get more FWD in a powerful car. Afterall they are F160 size while the rear is pretty much indestructible at R200 size. If you intend (or expect....) to keep breaking them, you will find GTR ratios much easier to find replacements

I have noticed absolutely no issue with the nismo mounts, nor before I had them. nor in my stagea which has standard mounts. in the end I just went the nismo ones because they cost about the same, and why not try "upgraded" I suspect that unless the current mounts are broken you won't notice a difference either

yes, and yes. I can measure a nismo one if that helps but I noticed no difference

pretty sure gtr vs gtst engine mounts are not the same; and nismo gtr mounts are the same height as standard ones

oh leave the octane boost at home, that is the biggest scam since winding back odometers. each bottle increases the octane by about 0.1......so adding 5 bottles to a tank of regular would get you to the awesome result on 91.5 octane BTW FWIW e10 has about 94 octane even though they call it regular/91 so it is a good option if you can't find 95. The Cima claims to need 95+ but I just run it on e10.

I totally agree....low profile, easy to remove later, minimal impact on drag. And the only fuel container I'd have in the car on a long trip is the metal style with strong rubber seals. Anything else is a good chance of leaking lightly which will be a super frustrating couple of days. I did a trip up to Alice when 95 was not readily available outside capital cities, I think you might need to plan carefully for where you can fuel. I'm sure M35 is better than C34 on fuel but still not awesome, right? FWIW I was able to on fine on 91 for a couple of fills as long as I stayed off boost.

Is a report I saw the other day correct? Has our govt just decided to keep the current monopoly rules in place after all?

I feel like I'm a bit late to this thread, but ECCS relay failing (always on) would also cause this.

yeah that is modern way, eh. we should definitely keep going on the radical....before I forget everything again

yeah sadly you need fuel, ignition AND compression....you can try a compression test but I think you will get bad news if it doesn't start; particularly if it turns over very easily/quickly

I'd be surprised if you get relevant experience on this; once a bottom end is apart pretty much anyone is going to machine it and use new bearings (of a single grade within a size). Some top end race builds might try and blueprint by choosing the best bearing from a set for each journal but frankly the more important part is consistency of the machining.

Yes AFAIK it's only reason for existing in the car is to piss people off when it is actually engaged. But in any case it doesn't affect you using the key. I've been meaning to fix the same problem on the race car, I'm assuming its just full of dust etc.

It's been an error code kind of week have a search for "secret squirrel tweak" it has the details required. BTW its likely your Air Con relay won't work either, the Stageas appears to trigger it differently to Skylines

hahaha you both said bush. and yes....ebay says the c/f sheet is on it's way....

fine. so I am too literal.

what, lunch was unpaid? you are a harsh boss...

traction arms are always needed otherwise your car will crash to the ground. HA. HA. adjustable ones help with reducing bump steer when you lower the car, so you need them if you have noticed a bump steer problem and want to spend some time on an alignment hoist dialling it out. or, you could just chuck them in, adjust them to % of stock length based on how much you shortened the camber arm by and feel like it improved things like most people do

has it always been on since you put the PFC in? If so search for "secret squirrel tweak". If it turned on since grab a hand controller and find out which sensor is out of range. If it flashes like a disco stop driving it and get it retuned/checked out.

Well, it was the cheapest one around and they are crappy castings, you can certainly buy similar but better quality kits for 400+. but even so they are still 5mm cast iron so I can't see any problem. Certainly better than abusing big sockets like I have been. I just couldn't readily get the subframe into the press because the shape is horrible, so using just the threaded rod worked a treat

title updated, and moved to the builds section

made some progress on Neil's Radical's wiring this weekend, but stuff all on my car. I did get this snazzy pressing kit of ebay which made short work of the subframe bushes http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231667756034 Just put a correctly sized sleeve above and below the bush turn the handle (OK, lots, and hard), and it is done voila