Duncan

ha! "offloading junk" you are still talking like it was 5 years ago. These days that stuff is solid gold

tridentt150v wins the guessing game Right sized wheels might be a better solution than spacers, but at least you've got it sorted....

I agree, most likely been drilled and tapped for a cooler. If you aren't running one and the blue pieces are proper AN caps you can just leave it like that.

Thanks, I'd love to hear when you can

haha yes, count the liquorice strips left afterwards. 2 strips good, 1 strip bad. Sorry, I see your profile says r33 gtst, I had assumed gtr, didn't realise gtst with alsd had an attessa sensor too

Great work....foam sealing makes a big difference to the actual effect too.

If that is your G sensor in the pic, it does not have the high impact red line showing. If yours has a more obvious red section in the centre glass, it has had a high G impact. However, the shock indicator is physically separate to the actual g sensor electronics and is only an indication that the G sensor might be faulty. If your ATTESSA is working OK I would not worry any further

Is the centre console and storage S15 too?

sorry, to clarify that, the plug you have shown is in the bottom of the transfer case (not gearbox), I don't have a plug in the same place. It could only drain xfer case fluid, not sure why there is a difference

Well, I'm confused. My gearbox is the same as your second pics, I don't have the drain plug shown in your first pic.

Yeah that is perfect pressure to test and hold, although personally I'd leave it on overnight and come back.

Those boost controller units are for use with an ECU that can't do boost control, like standard or power FC. Haltech will look after that in your case, once it is in and tuned

90 is certainly not dangerously hot, obviously you want temperature to be stable when idling and driving at low speeds but it would have to get much hotter to do any damage

But, did I correctly understand.....it doesn't overheat idling and stationery? That is normally when a poor quality fan or fan install causes issues.

That's a "twin pass" radiator, there is a divider in the centre of the core forcing water to go to the other side before it can reach the exit. Much more expensive design, if a radiator has that it will say so

Spent half the day washing the stagea so it's not so obviously a farm bitch. Hopefully there is a category for 400kw, 400,000klm family vehicle, I'm a chance.....

Either way, if you can crush it with your fingers it won't directly damage a gear. I'd do as you suggested, fill it with something cheap, run a few klm, flush and refill.

Thats pretty much exactly where my filter is on the race car, no issues so far, obviously the GTR has a pair of BOVs forward and below that would get hit first. I also have my oil cooler thermostat block up and forward of that location. It's all still behind the reo but potentially a problem in a medium or larger front crash Also, having it angled down like that really helps tidy oil changes, and access to that location is good without getting under the car

Hard to be sure without more context in the picture, but likely that is the transfer case oil drain. The fill is higher and on the side (or, you could fill the transfer case through the shifter, not the shifter does not go into the gearbox case so you can't fill gearbox oil that way). You said you put Motul ATF in the transfer case, how did you drain it first?

When you say "motor was locked", when, how did you learn that, and what did you do to unlock it? The resistor pack should have 5ohm between pin 3 and all other pins If you want to test the spark side, here are the resistor pack and coil pack values Noting this is RB26 not Rb20, but 99% sure they are the same

Is the purpose of the SGI box just to keep speed sensitive power steering? Because the ic7 and Plat Pro both run off the Haltech GPS, right? I've been running without speedo input to the ECU for about 15 years since I removed the standard speed limiter (by cutting the speed wire :)), have only decided to add it back in lately when IC7 gained odometer function which is super useful for fuel planning in rallies. No idea why but I've never had a heavy steering issue (or maybe it's just heavy and I've never noticed because race car)

Basically, yes. The fuseable links are required unless you've changed the wiring but they are just spade connections I use one of these as a lot changed when I moved to a PDM, although note it is for large terminal battery SAE not the JIC factory style. https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/projecta-battery-distribution-terminal-3-stud-positive-bt925-p1

But not too hard, give future you a chance to get it back out....

It isn't hyro-locked, if it was it would not turn on the starter. However, that doesn't rule out a bent rod (rods will bend as they are applying the force from the crank, valves will be fine) The JECS resistor pack is just a set of resistors that increase the resistance to the injectors, it won't have failed, particularly if the injectors are opening/closing when you turn the CAS. The ignitor pack on the other hand might be an issue, perhaps the spark is weak. However, on thinking again, I wonder about the exhaust and in particular muffler being blocked. Can you disconnect the exhaust from the front pipe down near the gearbox and try again?

I'd be crying too if I had an Evo 9