Duncan

WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY SNATCHES DOES IT CRUNCH

Don't do it; get a windscreen guy to do it for you. Even the guys doing this every day often break the screen on the way out, plus, getting a pro to do it is cheap

Lol I would have thought you can't have too much run off on the side of a mountain, but I guess that's a discussion for another day

I've never noticed a cap with the logo cast different to the others (but then I've also never dealt with rb20 rods). In any case the numbering on the rod end and cap show what is was machined for and you said yours was correct. Suspicious that the rod with the bearing problem had this but co-incidence is still an option. For the oil pump, I think you were putting this in a street car, right? Nissan engineers knew there were issues with the oil pump engagement from a short crank since at least 1992, so their decision to keep them for another 10 years shows they were not causing trouble in regular engines for road use. Unless you are building this for big turbo power, stick with the short crank nose and just put it back together (and don't drive around on the rev limiter!) Re that bearing, if you are disassembling the whole engine clean out the crank oil galleries thoroughly, there could be an oil feed issue to that journal

Is pikes peak paved all the way to the top these days? You definitely need to address the hubs because the driveshaft keeps them on. I've never done this but assume R32 GTST front uprights and hubs are the simple solution. More information on the car would be interesting, perhaps even motorsport build thread over here: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/272-motorsport-builds/

No, sure enough p CH-54 mentions the sealant on the 3 bolts but no torque settings. It is listed on SD-11 though

CH-88 in the manual

A miss is as good as a mile...but keep in mind you may not be able to fit balancing weights on the wheel if it is very tight also, rocks can get lodged and gouge the inner rim when it is very close too....I don't care on the race car but it might be an issue for road (or carpark) use

yeah I think the expensive ones are too smart. they decide there is nothing there to charge when the battery is very flat so you need to just get some juice into it through an old fashioned method first. Obviously they are a good thing once you get to a full battery because they more carefully manage the volts and amps when it is getting right up there

Not really sure of the order you are thinking, but you need front plate with chosen clutch pivot and xfer case on before you fit it in the car. Yes you can fill the gearbox and transfer case before you install it, and no you won't lose any (or much) oil if you do it that way

Run the charger in power supply mode for a couple of hours and see if that shocks it out of dead. The smart chargers decide not to charge if they think the battery is not ready for a charge.

By far the easiest and most accurate way to deal with the speedo issue is a GPS module for the ECU. If you have HICAS (but who does?!?!) you might need to output from the ECU to pin 53

Well, mine is a sample of 1, but unfortunately mine we the odd one out ECU that was only used for a month

Yeah the ECU was perfect, wasn't a problem until I started modifying.

Sorry I don't have specifics, but I ran my manual conversion on the original ECU for some time. I believe that bridging the park switch was the only thing required

If you are that concerned, the only definitive check is through FAST or someone that has decoded it. For the Fuga I used: https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/locate?c=Nissan In the end I don't think it matters much. If it has everything for the model you wanted, what is the gap? You've bought an import so both purchase price and resale value will be lower than a locally delivered car

Yes, if the engine is vibrating but running smoothly it is probably not a missfire. I'd check all of the accessory belts carefully, and make sure all of the accessories are mounted properly, eg power steering pump is tight. There are lots of other rotating bits that could come out of balance (eg, the harmonic balancer itself) but at least you can check those easily. If you have a timing light, check the base timing against the balancer too, if it is miles off it may be the balancer

Yeah, I'm not sure why, but the stock ECU does use both a throttle switch and the TPS. Aftermarket ECUs just use the TPS so the switch is no longer required.

Oh, and BTW, don't turbo it, leave it stock, repair anything you can and sell in in 10 years for a fortune. You have a collector's car.

You've mentioned A8 a couple of times, what is that about? You can certainly turbo your engine, you just need to understand the turbo oil and water plumbing, intake and exhaust to suit, ECU, injectors etc. Depending on the block it can be harder to do a twin cam conversion because some blocks don't have the machined flat surface for the second tensioner required for that, but it doesn't sound like you were thinking about going that way

Yes, but that's not the point Although, as I guess Neil would say, "If you can't go fast, look good" I think you will have trouble when you have enough caster with the wheel hitting the front bumper at full compression as you turn lock to lock. Flares can cover up whatever butchery is required to clear that

I don't know about S chassis with strut fronts, but on r chassis longer LCAs is the best way to increase camber since it doesn't decrease track and put more pressure on the upper arm. A miss is as good as a mile to the shock, as long as you have the tyre size you are looking for. I'd just put flares on the front if you can. You need to make sure you have lock to lock clearance at full compression in the front

You're keen. It looks like whatever that is has a rubber grommet at the bottom that comes inwards. Get behind the rubber lip with a broad bladed screwdriver and it should pop inwards

Sorry it's been a long time since my stagea had the cross over inlet But yes I'd start with the car idling and unplug each coil in turn. If the revs don't drop the coil is not firing properly. You might also find one or more coil pack look plugs loose or cracked. But that test isn't a guarantee it is not a spark problem because it might have enough power to fire at idle, but not under boost When you don't know the car or it's service history, new spark plugs are an easy starting point too

And I guess the other question would be does it drive OK now, or when it is a little warmer. It is possible the standard ECU is just unhappy with the amount of air it got through the combination of the exhaust and being cold, the stagea ECU in particular is not very tolerant of mods. Otherwise, it could be any of the billion usual issues with a 25 year old car that has probably been around the block once or twice. Could be fuel pump (or filter) as suggested above. Could be fouled spark plugs. Could be dying coil packs, coil pack loom or even just poorly seated coil pack connectors. Could be the CAS. Could be a boost leak. Could be the AFM.....all just a bit hard to guess from here. That pop from the exhaust was just that it was either running very rich or misfiring (which also results in burned fuel)