Missileman

pm me the price to, please

Unless they're mint original, then somewhere south of $500aud ...every time is see gutter rash on lovely forged wheels I cry.

Buy a non viscus diff and use their recommended oil.

All good just wanted to warn the novices out there, 4lb hammers cans do some damage if used too aggressively.

could also be loose connection or a bad earth

Does knocking the stud out with a hammer damage the wheel bearing, i.e, brinelling? was told by and old mechanic to use a puller/ pusher tool.

...and if you take the old switch apart you can clean and bend the contacts back into shape it should work like new.

Notifications working now thanks

OK thanks, I did check my junkmail and saw no SAU emails, but that doesn't mean I didn't remark it as not spam, it's only a misguided mouse click away...;) I still have not received any notifications, from you last post???

Have not been getting any email notifications again, can an admin please check what is going on here.

Just stating the facts, simples

R32GTS-t bits needed R32GTS-t Reversing light LHS next to number plate, also require RB20DET stock FPR and stock injectors. Let me know what you've got Mike.

well chuck the stock cams back in, if that doesn't work try the springs.

have you tried a heavier weight oil ?

that's a funny looking R32

You also need to tighten then to the correct torque, and because getting a torque wrench in there is almost impossible, most 200lb gorillas tend to over tighten them. You can get by this problem by setting to correct torque on the wrench and then slipping the open end spanner onto the 1/2" drive of the torque wrench and feeling with you gorilla hands how much you need to tighten them, not exactly precise but it does the trick.

+1 that would be some entertaining racing I would love to see. Jenson would probably be gagging for the seat too

If I was Hamilton I would have done the same thing, re backing britney into vtool, it was his only option to take the championship. Congratulations to Nico, he had the right combination of skill, luck and equipment, good on him.

No worries, if you do buy from them, make sure when you create your account, to use Japanese Yen as your currency, and let your credit card do the conversion, it works out a little cheaper.

1990 is a Zenki, so the correct HKB is the ON-110 check them out here...http://www.rhdjapan.com/search/engine/nissan_skyline-gt-r_bnr32-zenki-8-89-8-91-eng-rb26dett/model/nissan_skyline-gt-r/car/nissan/category/interior_hubs-and-releases Definitely contact them and ask, if you intend to buy one of the other brands

The HKB item works well, but it is aluminium and the outer cover / shell is ribbed plastic, my only other criticism is that the two holes for the HICAS prongs have a little play in them that is not there in the OEM setup. Anfanee, is the Daikei boss alloy or steel?

Smoke test/ pressure test, clean the aac valve, and check the sealing compound around the butterflies has NOT been cleaned off.

yup all of the above, typical friday arvo. if it is not his ecu it will be the speedo, mine did the same on a recent trip to nimbin, that road out of murwillumbah would have to one australias worst.

In the above comment I have mistakenly written taco when I should have said speedo, Too much crack last night;)

You will need a hub specific to your flavor of 32, Zenki / Kouki and specific again if you have cruise control, so double check with your supplier. Also the HKB ones are OK but are a little cheap and nasty.