Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its very unfortunate that Brae have finally gaven up on the simple log manifold design as cyc No. 4 can not be bent that far to suit stock position. I will speak to few other welders and see what other possibilities are. But for the time been I will be assembling my car with what I've got and have that back doing its jobs soon as possible.

surely you could use whoever makes your rear housings and get them to make a modified version of the cast iron hks manifold

(make it so that it bolts on easily)

surely you could use whoever makes your rear housings and get them to make a modified version of the cast iron hks manifold

(make it so that it bolts on easily)

If the goal is stock location the HKS low mount isn't going to be the answer.

If the goal is stock location the HKS low mount isn't going to be the answer.

stock location won't be needed if its gonna come as a whole kit (dump included too)

Looks like I might have to go high mount to keep the costs down. apparently the side mount takes too much efforts to complete. There's one more welder who'm happy to give it a shot, we see how it goes.

What's the verdict on opening up the stock exhaust manifold a bit? Possible? Useful?

Or is that for another thread?

Looks like I might have to go high mount to keep the costs down. apparently the side mount takes too much efforts to complete. There's one more welder who'm happy to give it a shot, we see how it goes.

Is the manifold you posted on the last page a more expensive design or mounts the Turbo in a different location?

That is a $1100 manifold, the log manifold will have 123 goes into one plus and 345 in another. How ever there isn't enough room to merge 345 as the steam pipe bends are too big. If you go back and have a look at how my manifold is constructed, there are lots of efforts and man hours spent.

Yes by die-grinding stock manifold would help on picking up 17kws, pumps it to 297rwkws internally gated.

Do you have the ability to open up stock manifolds? If so, why not try and source say five stock manifolds, prep them and then sell them as part of a kit on an exchange basis? Charge people an extra $100 that you'll refund once they send in their stock manifold.

Might be easier and a shed load cheaper than trying to get your own steam pipe manifold sorted?

Just a thought.

^^^ good idea. I pulled a tonne out of mine. Surprising how poorly the ports matched the head. Plus the collector flange is much smaller than the gasket.

Whoever purchased a ss2 running ext gate is in for a treat.

Just got my car tuned at chequered tuning

Initially got 295 but wanted to be safe so turned back the timing.

So final =

276rwkw

18psi tapering to 16psi

Full boost at 3800

There is an abundance of wheel spin and really quick acceleration . Very happy.

Whoever purchased a ss2 running ext gate is in for a treat.

Just got my car tuned at chequered tuning

Initially got 295 but wanted to be safe so turned back the timing.

So final =

276rwkw

18psi tapering to 16psi

Full boost at 3800

There is an abundance of wheel spin and really quick acceleration . Very happy.

cool, do you think its laggy now?, Stao ran a bit more boost didn't he..21psi tapering to..? be good to see the dyno

sheet

Edited by jet_r31

Yes, In my opinion it is still laggy. But that is greatly outweighed by the power it produces and the smile it puts on my face on boost. Mind you it has performed just as well if not better than Stao has described it would so the turbo for what it is is great.

Mods are as follows

Z32

3" exhaust, no cat, 1 muffler (home-made)

600x400 bar and plate cooler with return flow piping, assuming its home-brand as i only paid $50.

Tial 44mm gate (17.64PSI)

SS2 0.82 type b

52mm Radiator

bcpr7es copper plugs

DW 740cc Injectors accompanied by a Bosch 044 (intank)

EVERYTHING else is standard

post-80628-0-65214000-1345064201_thumb.jpg

post-80628-0-06095100-1345064217_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Agreed, I've never seen a 260RS specific manual. As GTSBoy said it will mostly be stagea other than the engine loom https://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/stageaservicemanual.pdf
    • You'lll likely have to make do with R33 GTR for engine/tranny stuff, and Stagea for the body. I don't know that there's even been an actual diagram seen in the wild.
    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
×
×
  • Create New...