Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol ramps a little steep, 150-330kw in 700rpm

He explained why that is. It's a 9 second ramp as he is concerned about the stock internals holding up to such huge power.

It would make for an interesting drive, however :)

He explained why that is. It's a 9 second ramp as he is concerned about the stock internals holding up to such huge power.

It would make for an interesting drive, however :)

Wouldn't a shorter ramp actually make it look laggier on paper since the dunno allows the rpm to climb faster?

yes Trent wasn't very confident with stock con-rods when we got to around 375rwkws, faster ramp puts less load on to the engine, and generally result that sort of power curve. I was hopping for 400rwkws at the time ;) .

On road its obviously not as responsive as the SS1PU or the SS2, but pulls crazy after 4G on full throttle. I'm putting the SS2 back on for the final tune based on external gated setup and e85.

My ss2 is booked in at allstar garage in 3 weeks. Running it in between now and then once brake pads arrive. Hopefully have a drive this weekend

The turbine housing used on that run is a .82 type B rear. I believe type A would have produced more power. How ever this is the first prototype that made into this sort of power range, so there are many areas that could be twicked for even better result.

I think G3 will max out around the 370rwkws mark based on the same setup. I will do a test based on it in the next few weeks. I've also got few idea on high flowing factory R33 and R34 turbos that I like to trail.

Further evaluation on the SS2. it made 337rwkws on e85 externally gated at 18psi peek just touching 20psi. I've also trailed it based on internal gate running boost controller and straight off the actuator.

power.JPG

The solid red and green are from internal gate, Green is internal wastegate pressure:

boost.JPG

Boost curve for all runs.

power2.JPG

My ss2 internal gate turbo is ready to be picked up tomorrow.

Going to installed on a healthy rb25neo, ID 1000 injectors, z32afm, Hybrid turnflow intercooler with one of Scotty's metal intakes.

Will be tuned by Trent at Chequered tunning.

Will post up results when everything installed. Probably sometime in the next month

Ooo, nice one Tony. e85 I hope?

Nah not e85. It's my daily and I do alot of road trips on weekends.

So don't like the idea carrying jerry cans in the boot everytime I need to travel.

But yeah ID 1000 injectors just in case I ever change my mind in the future :P

I think G3 will max out around the 370rwkws mark based on the same setup. I will do a test based on it in the next few weeks. I've also got few idea on high flowing factory R33 and R34 turbos that I like to trail.

It would be interesting to see what your G3 style hi-flow(PU?) did on a stock exhaust manifold and E85,

eg ..most power for a full stocky look

cheers

darren

^^

hypergear can machine the stock rb t3 inlet cover to match up and bolt onto the ss series of turbos which means stock looking turbo

Edited by Dan_J

Yes can run stock comp housings on those.

Some updates with factory exhaust manifold fabrications. Well yes it is a not an welly engineered part. The port don't match up with the head as we already known, they had huge lumps in side the collectors, looks like they were trying to seal the bolt holes when the bolts aren't fastened. The lump took almost 40% of the total volume area that merged cyc 4 5 6. That really explains why its always the last few cycs that blows up when ever is an engine failure.

This is what they are like now, with the top half milled, lumps cleared out, and I'm going to weld steam pipe over the top to increase the overall volume of the manifold log.

IMAG0853.jpg

IMAG0854.jpg

IMAG0855.jpg

IMAG0856.jpg

IMAG0858.jpg

IMAG0859.jpg

Yes can run stock comp housings on those.

Some updates with factory exhaust manifold fabrications. Well yes it is a not an welly engineered part. The port don't match up with the head as we already known, they had huge lumps in side the collectors, looks like they were trying to seal the bolt holes when the bolts aren't fastened. The lump took almost 40% of the total volume area that merged cyc 4 5 6. That really explains why its always the last few cycs that blows up when ever is an engine failure.

This is what they are like now, with the top half milled, lumps cleared out, and I'm going to weld steam pipe over the top to increase the overall volume of the manifold log.

IMAG0853.jpg

IMAG0854.jpg

IMAG0855.jpg

IMAG0856.jpg

IMAG0858.jpg

IMAG0859.jpg

Very nice, photos really help show the progress your making :)

Will these be done on an exchange basis or will you have stock?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...