Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The SS15 high flow would work extremely well, Will be suited between 200~230rwkws region:

I can confirm this, I've got one on my tarmac rally car it's fantastic. Topped out at 220kw@20psi but the boost response is fantastic.

Edited by Komdotkom

I guess we can call the new turbo ATR45.5SAT model. I'm keen to see the result.

The Yellow R34 No.2 didn't go so well unfortunately, and we had to sort out a bunch of little problems with installation as well as getting the car running properly, there is still issues on ECU communicating with the boost solenoid, we run out time and have to finish off the tune another day.

But yes it is very responsive, notice the linear power and torque before 3000RPM:

ss2proottypepower270515.jpg

ss2proottype270515.jpg

2ndly, because I'm now using a JJR's normal front mount cooler kit instead of the return flow. Boost shoot easily over 20psi. I'm sure that 90 degrees bend would be cause of the boost tapper on earlier runs.

But either way, special application turbo for return flow cooled RB25dets are available.

yea this car's the worst out of all, still alot of little stuff to fix, while I've already made the next booking sitting around for 40 mints, next tune is booked 3 weeks away. hopefully all sorted by then.

any ideas why my boost would fluctuate from 15-17 psi back and forth?

changed to a 15psi actuator and this started happening, should i add more or less preload?

previous actuator did not have this issue.

no boost controller installed, running gate pressure

updating some 1JZ results. Those are from 1JZGTE Chasers:

This is 292rwkws on 19psi on our TD06SL205 Turbocharger externally gated, P98 fuel, Unopened engine:

sl2051jz292rwkwp98.jpg

And this is using a high flowed factory CT15B on E85 fuel making 321rwkws.

ct15bhf321rwkwe85.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Little update. The R34's definitely not going as smooth as any of the other cars I've modified. The new car's finally made it self all working today on the dyno. It hits a boost restriction which boost curve went flat at 19psi on 90% ebc duty, how ever the pressure before intercooler is showing a boost curve that kept on clamming all the way up to 24psi.

After setting EBC on 100% duty after 4000RPM, and there is still a 4psi pressure drop. Didn't got up to expectations but definitely better then the 9psi drop that I've had with the return flow kit. Its currently using a 600x300x68mm Takashi cooler, I will be upgrading it to 600x300x100mm and hopefully reduces the percentage of pressure drop.

I have never experienced similar issues on my R33, S14 or the R33-GTR, but to both of my R34s.

That R34 made 425rwkws earlier did not have this issue however, by using a RB26 inlet manifold. I'm unsure if it is related to the actual design of the inlet manifold, if so I might have to make a group of special application turbos just for R34s.

Power stays 267rwkws @ 20psi, basically made no differences apart from lag using a much larger turbo.

power.jpg

Boost curve before cooler (20psi) and after throttle body (24psi) at 100% EBC duty

boost.jpg

Hmmm....interesting. I've got your ATR43 G4 going on my NEO in the next few weeks. Will be interesting to see if I suffer similar issues.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...