Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Roughly what size turbo is that? Keeping in mind that it is going on an RB20. Only wanting absolute max 250ish kW to keep response as best as possible.

10 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

Roughly what size turbo is that? Keeping in mind that it is going on an RB20. Only wanting absolute max 250ish kW to keep response as best as possible.

Yes can build u an atr43g2 in cbb model for rb20det, that will be responsive and max towards 250rwkws regions

Stao what version of the Atr45 do i have? i got it in dec 2013.

is it even worst then the 1st rev of the atr45sat?

 

do you have a graph that compares my old one to the newest?

 

And how much to upgrade or change to the latest?

  • Like 1

The ATR45 is a 3582 equivalent in .82 rear. It's good size turbo for a 3L bottom. The new one is a very different turbo and nothing interchangeable. Best sell that and we can build you a ball bearing one new from scratch.

On 9/16/2016 at 5:20 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

extremely funny looking graph :)

Yep, Seems the engine had broken ringland's at the time thanks to a bad 'run in tune'

Had no signs or anything obvious until after this tune. (different tuners)
 

  • 2 weeks later...
New version is a very different turbo.

Thanks Stao. Is if possible to build the new SS2 to the old dimensions so that it's a drop-in replacement?

I think Johnny said you need to adjust and rotate the dump a bit to accommodate the new one.

When Tao and are selves put Are heads together and come up with the 6765 , bb core t4 split pole rear ! This should de an animal on the new set up ! 

Big thanks to hypergear as usual 

stock Rb25 turbo for comparison 

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

  • Like 3
29 minutes ago, 4bidn1 said:

I should really put my glasses on before typing on my phone ?. 

Thats not even English 

Lol...did you use talk to text?  Makes sense then being you're from Radelaide.  I'm going to call you Christopher Pyne from now on :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey crew, Failed my WOF cause of a lower control arm, and I've decided to hit both arms, and also the compression rods at the same time(seems they're gonna be the most likely upcoming failure points from some discussions with the lads over on the G35 reddit). I've looking at these form Z1:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-compression-rod-p-40716.html https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-lower-control-arm-p-40674.html I asked Z1 if they'd work as it's the same platform, just RHD vs LHD. I basically got told "Lol dunno". Specifically they aren't aware of any difference but can't guarantee fitment as they haven't done it on a 350GT. So guess I'm asking is if there is any issues with using 2005 G35 coupe suspension parts on a 2005 350GT coupe? Orginally I thought it could be something in the way of the arms that each control arm is designed to be positioned around, but that'd be an engineering nightmare for Nissan needing two different shaped control arms 😅
    • ^ This. The mode door actuator is a common failure, as is the actuator and/or the actual valve for the coolant flow control valve. I also don't know how available the mode door actuator is these days. I've been meaning to look into it and get one from wherever is possible, to keep in the shed for the rainy day when mine eventually fails. Anyway, the advice to you is to search the usual NOS part supply places, or even just go to Nissan and see what they list.
    • Have you got a pic of the actuator? My guess is that unit has failed internally and was flopping around, so the previous engineer who owned it forced it to be fully open to cold air (blocking the heater core path). As far as you can tell, is anything else wrong in the system? Likely you just need a new actuator (not sure how available they are) and then "installation is the reverse of disassembly"
    • I'm happy with the Lsailt unit that I put in, it puts full Android on the top screen so you can run whatever Nav and other Apps you want, while still existing inside the factory functionality like automatic reverse cams, audio input switching, retains factory bluetooth etc. Not cheap and the install was moderate (not simple, not hard) Yours is a V36 not V37 though right?
    • Yeap, all the NC's that I originally looked at that had a hard top were PRHT, which makes the roof line look horrible, hence why I said nope to them My only caveat for another MX5 was it needed to have a hard top, and initially I didn't think you could get a detachable hard top for the NC,  like my NB had Again, a big thanks to Matty for helping me source the detachable hard top for my little girl, they are as rare as hens teeth in Australia, and the few people who have them, keep them Also to Greg, for initially pointing me in the NC direction NC PRHT 🤢🤮 Not mine (I really should take more photos of my car), but a NC with the detachable hard top 😁 To me, the difference in how the detachable hard top roof line looks, and how it actually follows the bodies lines, like they do on NA's and NB's, is chalk and cheese compared to the bulbous looking PRHT  
×
×
  • Create New...