Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 21/10/2016 at 10:35 AM, White_Stag said:

Hi guys does anyone have parts numbers for Rocker cover gaskets and seal for back of oil cooler. I'm having slight oil leaks.

 

Thank you!

The part numbers for both rocker cover gaskets is in the first post of this thread.

 

Did you even try looking before posting?

  • 2 months later...

Hi there, nice thread!  I have been having a look through.. and in another thread here, regards bodywork. I got the impression many of the body parts are interchangeable. My 2003 nm35 ARX suffered a ram from a commodore the other day. I am looking for a replacement rear bump/bar and reinforcing rail and want to check that a series 2 will fit on my series 1 or if any M35 rear bumpers WONT fit on the AR-X?

Cheers!

  • 2 weeks later...
Hi there, nice thread!  I have been having a look through.. and in another thread here, regards bodywork. I got the impression many of the body parts are interchangeable. My 2003 nm35 ARX suffered a ram from a commodore the other day. I am looking for a replacement rear bump/bar and reinforcing rail and want to check that a series 2 will fit on my series 1 or if any M35 rear bumpers WONT fit on the AR-X?
Cheers!

There is a ARX kit for sale on facebook and i have a spare rear reinforcement bar (currently wrecking a m35)

Thanks for the 2 responses above! I'm in New Zealand, we don't get very many of the ARX VQ25DET here! I have been ill so fixing this is still a work in progress. 

While on the subject of the backend of a VQ25DET, I  thought to raise the question on tow bars. I am guessing this is possible for the vehicle with a standard factory turbo setting?  I must admit I  get a bit out of my depth there, was wondering if the fixings may require a special reinforcing bar on the off chance. At which I may look into setting this up while doing the repair.

thanks again for the replies and this awesome thread.

Username is surname with an S at the end, also an anagram of Stagea. Love my badge haha.

Edited by Agates
  • 5 weeks later...

If it's a help to anyone, the official Nissan M35 Aircon condenser assembly (with receiver/dryer tank) part no. is 92100-AL570 (replaces original part no 92100-AL500).

The same condenser/tank assembly fits the following models:

STAGEA GH-M35, GH-NM35, GH-HM35,

STAGEA CBA-PM35, CBA-PNM35,

SKYLINE GH-V35, GH-HV35, GH-NV35,

SKYLINE CBA-CPV35, CBA-PV35

SKYLINE UA-CPV35, UA-PV35

So there.

 

Condenser Assy 153_276_3887104.jpg

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...

P0110 CEL

 

nm35s are known for killing airflow meters. 

It appears the problem is not the airflow meter itself just simply the attached thermistor. 

I have tracked down the correct part a repaired 2 of my previously failed 5. 

I wish I had of known this originally. The thermister is simply clipped into place and develops a resistance based on temperature. This tells the ecu what the intake air temperature is. 

If you are having this error code come up the part required is;

http://www.newark.com/honeywell/135-202fag-j01/ntc-thermistor/dp/10M5322?CMP=AFF-CJ-3196515-Newark+Product+Catalog&source=CJ

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

anyone know if the m35 shares CV's with any other car? 2-3 years ago I had torn boot and fixed it. now its happened again and they got plenty of play in them.

would make it easier if they were shared with another make..

  • 2 weeks later...
On Monday, April 03, 2017 at 0:27 AM, m35stagea said:

P0110 CEL

 

nm35s are known for killing airflow meters. 

It appears the problem is not the airflow meter itself just simply the attached thermistor. 

I have tracked down the correct part a repaired 2 of my previously failed 5. 

I wish I had of known this originally. The thermister is simply clipped into place and develops a resistance based on temperature. This tells the ecu what the intake air temperature is. 

If you are having this error code come up the part required is;

http://www.newark.com/honeywell/135-202fag-j01/ntc-thermistor/dp/10M5322?CMP=AFF-CJ-3196515-Newark+Product+Catalog&source=CJ

 

Wow! If this is true, you really should post a topic on this. So many people have had issues with this. I am on my 4th maf sensor. I will try it out on one of the faulty ones. Thank you! L

  • 2 months later...

Does anyone have the part number(s) for a seal kit for the front brake calipers?

I rang nissan up and they quoted a part number: AY600NS013.  This is 2-3 weeks from Japan!  Surely this should be the same seal kit as the 350Z?

Another website was quoting 41120-AL525, but I have been told this is for a Nissan Juke.

 

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

if your blowing up AFM's I'd be looking at your air filters. Especially if they are an oil type Like K&N or BMC etc etc.

(no reason why they wont last 120,000km / 15 years)

  • 1 month later...

The info in the first post re: front wheel bearing on NM35 being the same as J32 Maxima is incorrect.

I ordered an aftermarket J32 Maxima bearing and hub assy from Bursons and attempted to fit it, but found the bearing carrier to be too large to fit the stub axle.

The CORRECT part number for an aftermarket bearing is NJ137KIT - this is a CBC part number, and should be available from most bearing places.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
7 hours ago, Deceiver said:

The info in the first post re: front wheel bearing on NM35 being the same as J32 Maxima is incorrect.

I ordered an aftermarket J32 Maxima bearing and hub assy from Bursons and attempted to fit it, but found the bearing carrier to be too large to fit the stub axle.

The CORRECT part number for an aftermarket bearing is NJ137KIT - this is a CBC part number, and should be available from most bearing places.

Thanks - i've updated the front page with your info.

  • 1 month later...

RHR Lower Door Seal:
82838-AQ01A
List Price: $99.06+

LHF Lower Door Seal:
80839-AC50B
List Price: $95.15+

Required Clips:
80897-AQ000
x11 to do one front, one rear door


image.thumb.png.99c3865a83c9864af46a17b8ef49796e.png

  • 5 weeks later...

Couldn't be bothered searching to see if this is known;

VQ35 starter motor is a direct replacement for VQ25DET.

I have just fitted one after mine cooked itself. Bolts straight in with no modifications at all and no clearance issues. They share the same solenoid as well. 

Edited by Sack87
Spelling mistake
  • Like 3
  • 6 months later...
Quote

Rear rotors and pads are the same as the 350z touring/V35 Skyline/X-trail
The rear pads & rotors for the 350z or v35 will not fit without modification

Can someone clarify what this means form the first post. I've read the whole thread a few time but can't find deets on the

modifications (if any) are required to rear pads and or rotors/

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...