Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 minutes ago, UNR33L said:

what is laid up cover what happens if you crash it on the road? 

1k seems steep if it's just garage cover.. why not just get 3rd party fire and theft? 

hell my fpv is like 1k for full comp at market value 

I think I'm covered for very limited use, but it's mostly for cars that aren't driven. Thought it would be a good idea while it's being built and then I'll switch to full comp once on the road.

Problem with third fire and theft is Just Cars will only do up to $10k value (it's still $400 with a $900+ excess) and you're not covered for someone damaging or vandalizing your car I don't think.

Wish you could just insure yourself as a driver and not your vehicles.

Ah righto - fair enough.

Car question, got quoted $300 by a shop to fit up some new front brakes, (calipers / rotors) they are supplying the brake fluid and reckons he needs the car for 2.5 hours. Sound about right? Was referred by a friend so assuming he'd half look after me.

Yes I know I could put them on myself but don't have the right tools for the job. 

Ah righto - fair enough.

Car question, got quoted $300 by a shop to fit up some new front brakes, (calipers / rotors) they are supplying the brake fluid and reckons he needs the car for 2.5 hours. Sound about right? Was referred by a friend so assuming he'd half look after me.

Yes I know I could put them on myself but don't have the right tools for the job. 


Could buy the right tools for $300

/weakexcuse
I think I'm covered for very limited use, but it's mostly for cars that aren't driven. Thought it would be a good idea while it's being built and then I'll switch to full comp once on the road.

Problem with third fire and theft is Just Cars will only do up to $10k value (it's still $400 with a $900+ excess) and you're not covered for someone damaging or vandalizing your car I don't think.

Wish you could just insure yourself as a driver and not your vehicles.


Just cars is $625 excess for fire and theft
I know cos I paid it a few months ago

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...