Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

<iframe frameborder='0' scrolling='no' src='https://poll.fbapp.io/embed/vkkstg?api=3.3.3' width='100%'></iframe>

<script src="https://code-rubik-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com/iframeresizer/3.3.3/host.js"></script>

<script type='text/javascript'>iFrameResize({ enablePublicMethods: true });</script>

Some more questions to cloud the question.

What if you're drunk and your mates gotta drive? Evo wins that battle I reckon. None of my mates could hill start my GTR. (My wife could though, she drove it better than most of my friends.)

What if you have kids? (And the kids have legs)

What if you live in a snowy area?

All those questions aside, what if you have style. ;):D

What if you're drunk and your mates gotta drive? Evo wins that battle I reckon. None of my mates could hill start my GTR. (My wife could though, she drove it better than most of my friends.)

Leave R32 GT-R at home. Get hammered.

What if you have kids? (And the kids have legs)

Have legs; can walk

What if you live in a snowy area?

R32 GT-R has 4WD sort of

All those questions aside, what if you have style. ;):D

R32 GT-R

  • Like 3

Well, this is compelling. The arguments (and poll) appear to be clearly one-sided. Its turning into a little bit of an embarrassment :yes: (if i'm honest).

If the track has corners bye bye R32 Micky :P

The Yanks are pulling 10's with the stock 9 turbo

This is tough, I'm die hard GTR fan but even I would contemplate the EVO VII as real compition for best bang for buck and if my near stock 32 hadn't already run 11.1 I just might have voted EVO

I should add, he did pick up a shitter R32 VSpec2, but didn't have the money to fix it up at the time, so sold it cheaply.

Still, for an all-rounder, the Evo is better.

I'd still choose the GT-R life because I always wanted one, from seeing a silver R33 GT-R at Oran Park in 1997 when I was single digit, to Gran Turismo and Bathurst/ATCC VHS tapes my dad has.

And probably because I have daily lol.

  • Like 1

Previous to my R, i owned an Evo 7.

Bloody 23 pounds of boost and all i managed was 200awkw. The Recaros are pretty average in them TBH, and weren't that comfortable. The side bolsters are not 1 piece, so the stitching wears real easy.

Understeerd alot more than the heavier R, and was boring after 1 year of ownership.

45?? L tank and I got 350km at most.

My VIII MR felt so agile, responsive, chuckable and obviously modern.

But the quality of manufacture and attention to detail just doesn't stack up against my BNR32.

Sure the Supra 2JZ has stronger pistons, conrods etc,...

But the upgradability of the RB26 is absolutely remarkable.

Oh yes, I forgot to add that my 8MR cam belt broke and the Recaro plastic support also broke.

I have been in both and the R32 GTR feels & sounds a lot more special. my cousin had built one with built motor & upgraded twins in 2004-2005 and I was completely blown away when he took me for a drive in it.

it feels special whereas the evo doesn't. the evo is a bit more sterile....

If the track has corners bye bye R32 Micky :P

The Yanks are pulling 10's with the stock 9 turbo

Lol yeah, you can't compair my 32 v an evo for track use, my 32 has had the shit beat out of it one to many times and needs some serious tlc in the driveline department

Iirc I know the EVO you are talking about and please, the engine is FULL built with all the fruit plus E85 and the car is pretty well stripped out and on slicks to run 10.7-10.8, change the turbo and it is a 9 second car :/

Edit, found it https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HaWrQg7t_Rc

I have been in both and the R32 GTR feels & sounds a lot more special. my cousin had built one with built motor & upgraded twins in 2004-2005 and I was completely blown away when he took me for a drive in it.

it feels special whereas the evo doesn't. the evo is a bit more sterile....

I voted for the GTR for the same reason. Having owned a modified EVO TME and now a modified GTR, I prefer the GTR.

The GTR has a 'soul' and a special feel about it that no other car I have owned seems to have. Difficult to describe. But I am sure any GTR owner will agree.

  • Like 1

Better is such a broad term - really need to define what variable one car is going to be better at.

If chasing a broad variable I'd probably go for length of ownership as a good judge of what makes people favour one over the other. My experience is that people tend to buy Evos, have a lot of quick fun and get over them / sell within a year of buying. No one seems to hold them for a long time - maybe they don't inspire the same passion Skylines do. 32 GTR owners seem to hang onto them for years - however, I'm unsure if this is a true love / can't let you go thing, or born out of necessity...given most 32Rs spend more time in a state of repair than being driven haha

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...