Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day ppl could I get pointers on a full rebuild of anRB@% GTST Series II engine for 500 to 1000 hp. I'm after horsepower and reliability together I dont want to be breaking somthing all the time lol. How much roughly could the rebuild cost aswell rough figures of what other ppl have spent and the ideas aswell would be helpfull. Im also south of brissy qld so any shop recommendations would be greatfull to.

For a start go to the Forced Induction section and look at the RB25 turbo upgrade thread. You will see what people have done to their cars to get more power. Start at the end to avoid a load of outdated gear.

And there is a huge difference both in power and in money between 500 and 1000hp so have a think about how much power you really want.

  • Like 1

Estimate at $40k to get everything going reliably 

im guessing u will be paying a workshop as u if you knew what u were doing u wouldn’t be asking such a vague question 

LOL, reliability for what use?

Dyno queen

Street car

Track hack

Sprints

You need lots of cubes, lots of strong parts, and some boost.

What transmission and drivetrain you using, that stuff can start eating itself at 400hp, let alone being reliable at 500-1000hp, for "some" reliability I would budget around 60-80k, easy, maybe more.

Your also going to need a "spare stash of cash" for when your "reliable setup" breaks.

And it will.

  • Like 2
On 5/28/2020 at 4:53 PM, Ben C34 said:

What can you do? Cmon man, this thread is ultra vague!

Well at the moment mate I'm rebuilding a LS3 engine out of a senator from ground up and my skyline is my next project I was just seeing what other people thoughts were hoping there was people on here to throw out ideas I might not have thought of

On 5/28/2020 at 5:26 PM, mlr said:

LOL, reliability for what use?

Dyno queen

Street car

Track hack

Sprints

You need lots of cubes, lots of strong parts, and some boost.

What transmission and drivetrain you using, that stuff can start eating itself at 400hp, let alone being reliable at 500-1000hp, for "some" reliability I would budget around 60-80k, easy, maybe more.

Your also going to need a "spare stash of cash" for when your "reliable setup" breaks.

And it will.

Cheers bro I'm setting up for street n track I been researching and I'm just going to aim for 500hp I'm going to run a 6 speed manual transmission and I can apparently get a 9 inch diff made 

23 minutes ago, MrSINNER said:

Cheers bro I'm setting up for street n track I been researching and I'm just going to aim for 500hp I'm going to run a 6 speed manual transmission and I can apparently get a 9 inch diff made 

Nothing wrong with the RB diff.

50 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Nothing wrong with the RB diff.

Really mate I haven't really had much to do with the RB parts as a whole I been into more V8's but I am really loving the RB's. I have seen the limited slip upgrade for them is that the better way to go?

33 minutes ago, MrSINNER said:

Really mate I haven't really had much to do with the RB parts as a whole I been into more V8's but I am really loving the RB's. I have seen the limited slip upgrade for them is that the better way to go?

Kaaz 2-way into the centre and off you go :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...