Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Firstly, I don't need shit. I've been giving myself enough of it to last a lifetime.

For 10 years I've wanted to put spacers on my cars and never trusted them. Too many bad stories. But for some reason I thought I'd get some cheap Chinese ones from eBay to put in while I did Springs and shocks.

Well... I dropped the car back down and took it for a test drive. It started clunking from the rear within 10 metres from my house. I immediately did a uey and went back home. I found that 3 of the extra length lug nuts were finger tight. I pulled the wheel off with the expectation that my Springs were out of the mounts and I noticed the state of the spacer.

I had to heat it to get it off and beat the bejesus out of it with all sorts of tools but, here she is in all her glory.

I feel extremely lucky. I'll never use spacers again.

IMG_20200716_142200.jpg

IMG_20200716_142210.jpg

IMG_20200716_142216.jpg

IMG_20200716_142223.jpg

IMG_20200716_142226.jpg

IMG_20200716_142238.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Confused 2

looks bad, did you remember to give it a few extrra ugga-dugga's when tightening up the nuts with the rattle gun?

 

 

to be fair I think something else has happened here, perhaps that locating ring size was wrong?

I tightened it a lot. Rattle gun and then double check with the bar. I have a thing about lug nuts.

The locater trying was stuck in the rim when I took it off.

Ouch

31 minutes ago, PranK said:

But for some reason I thought I'd get some cheap Chinese ones from eBay

there's your problem...I don't feel like repeating myself from another thread, but cheap + china = no QC = playing Russian roulette 

  • Like 1

I have used many spacers over the years without a problem.  10mm is too much for slip on spacers...they should   be bolt on.. with the right combination of spacers and hubcentric rings should be fine. They need to be done up properly before putting any weight on the wheel.

Like Ben said what was the CB of the wheel and what were the inside and outside mm of the rings? The spacer looks like an odd diameter as well. The rings are soft - they are only made of aluminium - some are made of plastic. They are only meant to locate the wheels until you tighten them up.

Many aftermarket wheels have 73.1CB so to go on a Nissan the rings should state 73.1 to 66.1

 

yeah there was more at play here than just shit spacers (but don't be confused, those look like truly shit spacers). Centre bore looks to be an issue for sure. Spacers are't ideal but they aren't that bad. Have run them on my drift cars for years and never even had an issue. 

  • Like 1

I don't know enough about wheels, suspension or spacers to be of an use here, but glad that you only had this minor amount of damage. 
I shudder to think if it had let go at high speed... :( 

I am happy that you can post it up here though, sounds like you got off reasonably lightly all factors considered.

i'm not sure I understand the issue either; I used GK tech hubcentric issues with longer studs for many years with no issues, although agreed, never use uncentred " slipon" type/truly cheap sh^t. 

I had the " techs" at one Bob Jane outlet refuse to fit new tyres to my car because " I had spacers, and they're baaad, mmkay?"  I asked him if he realised they were hubcentric, and he truly had no idea what that meant. 

I've used 5mm non-hub centred ones in the past just to clear brakes. As long as you do your best to centre them properly/evenly before you fully tighten the wheel nuts, ive not had an issue. If its not centre properly I get slightly shakey steering wheel at 100kmh.
Switched to hub Gktech ones now and theyre not an issue.

Good thing you picked up on it Prank

Hey Christian, not sure if you ever got to the bottom of this, but I reckon the outer diameter of the raised part that was meant to slip inside your wheel was larger than the inside of your wheel. So, when you tighten it up the wheel nuts tighten down but the whole force was pushed onto the raised lip, not the spacer.

When the lip failed, all of a sudden your wheel nuts had 5mm of clearance and quickly departed.

If you take a wheel off and push the spacer onto the rear of the wheel; does it slide inside so the wheel surface and spacer are flat, or does the centre lip prevent that

  • Like 1

Thanks all,

So the spacer on the drivers side was fine. They both fit snug on the hub (and hub lip) and into the wheel. I plan on taking the passenger side wheel off this week and measuring the hub and the wheel to double check. I've held the two spacers against each other and they are identical in size.

I'll update once I've checked it out. 

I've found the spacers feedback in here to be interesting, I was definitely expecting a lot more anti-spacer attitudes.

 

  • Like 1
10 minutes ago, PranK said:

I've found the spacers feedback in here to be interesting, I was definitely expecting a lot more anti-spacer attitudes.

 

I think most of us are old and wise enough to know better than to come out swinging on this stuff. Sometimes we all make mistakes and sometimes sh*t just goes wrong. Live and learn!

*Plus we know you're not a troll and are always helpful... :)

11 minutes ago, PranK said:

I've found the spacers feedback in here to be interesting, I was definitely expecting a lot more anti-spacer attitudes.

You should have posted a pro-spacer thread in order to get that response here :P 

  • Like 1
15 minutes ago, GTofuS-T said:

You should have posted a pro-spacer thread in order to get that response here :P 

Not from me.

I've used lots of different "bolt on" spacers, from fleabay to brand name (fleabay items with a brand name painted on them).

Never once had an issue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...