Jump to content
SAU Community

Most Suitable r34 model for a GT-R Conversion

LeoM
 Share

Recommended Posts

UWISSH! Grand Master

UWISSH!

Posted
Posted
On 6/17/2022 at 7:18 PM, LeoM said:

Looks clean but for that price you can prb get a gt25 throw an rb26 and fabricate the chassis for awd lol

No you couldn’t with todays stupid skyline market. People want 30k for half a broken car full of rust 

I think you grossly underestimate  how much people charge for good fab work

  • Like 2
r32-25t Grand Master

r32-25t

Posted
Posted
On 19/6/2022 at 5:29 PM, niZmO_Man said:

straight 6 turbo, rear wheel drive, manual.

win win?

You’d thing so, then you remember it’ll break down more often then your almost 30yr old skyline 

  • Haha 3
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted
On 20/06/2022 at 3:54 PM, r32-25t said:

You’d thing so, then you remember it’ll break down more often then your almost 30yr old skyline 

Such a hater!

Yet people are now slapping BMW parts to their Nissans.

  • Like 1
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 6/19/2022 at 10:54 PM, r32-25t said:

You’d thing so, then you remember it’ll break down more often then your almost 30yr old skyline 

F80s are pretty reliable in stock form, they only start breaking weird parts once you start pushing the power past 500 crank hp.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Exactly. To me relianble doesn't mean "able to last through warranty", it means usable for a reasonable period after that too.

We are very spoiled by the (heavily loss making) nissan engineers from the 90s

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted
On 6/22/2022 at 5:26 AM, joshuaho96 said:

F80s are pretty reliable in stock form, they only start breaking weird parts once you start pushing the power past 500 crank hp.

I wonder how reliable a RB25, RB26 or SR20 is in stock form. I would wager it might last centuries.

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 6/21/2022 at 8:09 PM, Kinkstaah said:

I wonder how reliable a RB25, RB26 or SR20 is in stock form. I would wager it might last centuries.

As far as I could tell at 280,000 km the RB26 I got was fine except for all the leaks. To BMW's credit though an F80 M3 will survive a track day on modern track rubber without breathing a quart per lap through the PCV and possibly ventilating the block, an RB probably won't in stock form.

Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

Posted
Posted
On 6/22/2022 at 3:52 PM, joshuaho96 said:

As far as I could tell at 280,000 km the RB26 I got was fine except for all the leaks. To BMW's credit though an F80 M3 will survive a track day on modern track rubber without breathing a quart per lap through the PCV and possibly ventilating the block, an RB probably won't in stock form.

Just did a round of time attack at Lakeside, unopened RB25 making about 350KW on E85, at the end of the day I cracked the drain on the catch can and not a drop came out :)

  • 6 months later...
Mussy Contributor

Mussy

Posted
Posted

Currently done this project converted to rb25det, in gt four. Really easy.

now in the process of converting the other gt4 into rb26 what s headache 😂

 

actually stuck on wiring as it is from 260rs stagea the loom and ecu

 

Both were r34 2.5 na manual coupe

Old man 32 GTR Proficient

Old man 32 GTR

Posted
Posted

I’m contemplating a similar conversion, in my build of the GTR I have been left with an enormous array of spare parts, was initially just going to sell everything once the car is finished but am now considering getting my hands on an R32 GTS-4 and having a go putting it together with my son, I’ve seen a couple of what looks to be decent rollers sell for the 15k mark. 
My spares include, just off the top of my head, complete set of rebuilt R33 GTR brembo brakes, BM50 master cylinder, Nismo braided lines, complete set of bilstin coil overs, white line sway bars, R34gtr wheels, motec M130 ecu, RB26 factory engine loom, complete fuel system with twin 460 pumps, surge tank etc. 6 boost manifold, 2 x complete cold sides, (1 x single throttle, 1 x ITB factory setup). Complete rear subframe, with diff, shafts etc. 2 x GTR 5 speed boxes, 2 x transfer cases, 2 x tailshafts, 3 x front prop shafts, OS twin plate clutch, front hubs, all the factory arms, gearbox crossmember. 
About 90% of the interior, spare GTR front seats, dash, 2 x clusters, nice Defi gauges, oil cooler, spare GTR bonnet and grill, headlights, blinkers, tail lights. Motor wise, I got a set of forged pistons, Nitto oil pump and complete RB26 sump with factory diff.

And there’s a heap more crap (no doubt) that I can’t remember buying. 
but enough to put together a nice street car.. in my head anyway. Or just save myself the Headache and sell everything! (including the GTR) Lol 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...