niZmO_Man

Looks like Z-tune copies, it's a roll of the dice so go for it if you have the money. You may need to modify it to fit.

blardy scammer, anyways once i get married i will come speak to you (again). You're legit my hookup guy now bahahaha

I click then push on the center where the S badge is. Safer than slamming it down. I do have an aluminium bonnet though (R32 GT-R).

Should end up on Parramatta Rd as "immacluate $150k" ? Are Parramatta Rd dealers still a thing? haha

Very nice, congratulations. Having driven a stock N1 that had just ECU tune, I highly recommend minimal bolt ons and enjoy the car. 300kW at the wheels is heaps for the streets.

It's just drift damage haha. Haha yeah, the guards on my R32 were easy to roll. 1980s Japanese steel woo

Two golds! Struggled to get silver on Gran Valley.

You've given zero info about your setup. Step 1: make sure all the standard equipment are working as they should. If they're not, go investigate why. Step 2: Make sure all your wiring is done properly. Know which RB20 you have, most likely "silvertop" a.k.a R32/A31 anything after 1989. Step 3: make sure your ECU is tuned properly. Standard will barely run in this situation.

Depending on your use case, prop valve will almost always be a better choice.

I think... in the US, Silvermax is the equivalent of BC Racing, i.e. cheap Taiwanese built suspension that gets turned for "local" conditions. Back in the day in Australia, you could get MCA street for about $1300 and they were awesome. Don't know about now... In saying that, my real world TEIN experience: I got some street basis z for my old Liberty (BR9), and they were awesome ($800-odd delivered from demon-tweeks in the UK). so Don't discount TEIN

yeah my RedBull X2010 on Grand Valley is only good enough for bronze... I can't hit silver arrgh.

100% this. Long ago, I had a guy from the R31 club who set my BNR32 up (adjustable arms all round). He did an awesome job, was an after-work kinda thing where I had to bring a slab of beer. My car never drove better, and I stupidly got a random tyre shop to check the toe angles when I changed tyres, and they ruined the alignment. tl:dr- it takes a lot of skill to set up your car lowered from factory properly, and is worth paying the $200+ it takes.

My bad. I wrote it incorrectly. I meant to say "after dumping a bottle of oil flush into the engine"

Dose unofficially becoming R33 god

I would rather buy from aliexpress than whatever that "shop" is. Avoid like the plague.

Sounds like, to me, if you do some geometry calculations, you can fit a hoist in there

roll and pump rear guards = you'll be fine mate

what is your asking price?

State your asking price for the wheels+tyres

ok... so I read "B-52" can someone photoshop 4x turbofan engines onto a Stagea please?

instead of spending money on a meagre benefit, why not spend money on things more useful? Like suspension joint bushes, dampers (the thing the goes inside your springs), oil + filters etc. tl;dr tower braces make way less difference compared to your tyres.

yep it will be like that. Where do you mean by "down here"? This forum traditionally was an Australian/NZ one but we've been worldwide for many years now. So 100% state your location first so people can help by providing more localised informations (state your country, it helps a lot).

careful mate, you'll upset the new-age USA-ers

Not sure mate but try googling for R33 pinouts, there should be PDFs somewhere online for you.

Remember, your car is 30+ years old now, and who knows what drifters from the 90 in Japan + whoever had the car over the years have done to your car (before trying to return the car to "stock" condition and auctioning it out of Japan + whatever's been done afterwards). Always pull the parts in question out, measure and investigate. A lot of stuff can be sub'd out (on 90's Nissans and Toyotas), so as a general rule of thumb, pull out and measure then investigate.