Jump to content
SAU Community

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Members
  • Posts

    15,502
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    371
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. ahh you see, if you pull timing you'll get boost even sooner with the expense of not reaching MBT for that RPM at that Load point..
  2. What I was recommending is how to preserve the bottom end by limiting torque, so once you past peak torque you can go nuts with the boost and or timing to make the numbers. This is a technique good EVO tuners use to stop the pencil conrods snapping with stock EVOs making 300kW+
  3. Do it, just don't put too much timing towards and at peak torque. I would even take timing in the middle and ramp it once torque decays.
  4. It's not just about how much power a cooler allows a motor to make, it's more so how efficiently the cooler can cool down the charged air and also how much of it can flow through the core. Yes a China dim sim sui mai special may flow nearly identical to say a Plazmaman cooler however would definitely cool way less if you measure the IAT post cooler. For each run or pass you'll notice the intake temps will climb however first pass everything seems normal and this is where you'll hear people say bs like "I made 500kw on the stock cooler" then I day sure, let's increase the overall ramp duration on the dyno so something like 11km/h per sec so it's a nice and long run. I highly doubt the numbers would be identical at that point. So yeah, long story short get a good cooler.
  5. I know the topic is about fuel cooler placement however check out oem coolers, they have good mounting points and have shielding.
  6. I guess so, as a boat anchor (small boats) or a door stop, could also use it for bicep curls
  7. also what potato still runs HICAS on a fairly worked car? (referring to the car with the fuel cooler mounted under the spare)
  8. Looks much safer behind the diff like the above photo. Flying off the track and hitting a ripple strip with the fuel cooler exposed next to the chassis rail would be dangerous.
  9. Take it to someone else.. there are some interesting tunes from said workshop. In have a Nistune file for a R33 they did, interesting at the very least. Jono would have seen the same tune as well. For now pull back your boost before you lean out a lunch a motor
  10. Go bigger, do it right do it once. In a years time you'll be going those Aussie karnts were right, my fuel setup is too small.
  11. MAP sensors won't adjust for air flow, an AFM or MAF will though. Throw it on the dyno, check AFR, check where peak torque is, pull timing and it makes more power then continue to do so. Pull timing and it's losing power then add more however watch out for knock and also EGTs.
  12. You need a new tuner if that's the case. Saving a few hundred now isn't a saving when you're up for a $6k engine rebuild.
  13. It's not Facebook so you get proper answers here, with experience and evidence supplied Straight bolt on for R34s, R33/32 you need to enlarge the mounting hole to 14mm from 12mm. http://www.trak-life.com/diy-350z-brembo-brakes-conversion-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-gts-gts-4/
  14. Buy front 350Z Brembos and use 350Z Discs.. works out cheaper, uses the same brake pad as well DB1520 or IN1520 when referring to Intima Brake pads. Unfortunately the rears don't fit.
  15. wow, someone is balls in now - full commitment haha
  16. expensive way to delete the GT-R resistor pack... solder & heat shrinks normally would be about $0.50
  17. On the track, easily would do a whole tank in about 100kms at a guess, but I know per session I use 1x jerry can which is 20L and get about 10 laps
  18. put some ARP headstuds in, moarrrrrrrrr boost man
  19. Too small, waste of time and waste of money. TBH
  20. I do, he is me lol. Like Scarface once said, I trust me lol. My limiter has a soft cut at 7400rpm followed by a hard cut at 7700rpm with timing pulled before it hits the limiter.
  21. Yeah looks like I'll get the Nitto pump, it's only a bee's dick more than the Spool spline billet gears and a N1 Oil Pump housing. I was trying to make the motor bullet proof, and that means rev limiter abuse proof like 1JZ and 2JZ, but I've read that the poor harmonics of the RB crank itself is enough to cause the crank snout to move and exceed it's normal circular travel cause any form of spline driven pump to misalign and go chomp. "Apparently" through Facebook whispers Nitto did the whole spline drive thing and abandoned it because it worked out more reliable keeping that Nissan oil pump drive style.
  22. Yeah I had a good chat to Piggaz about it, looks like I'll run the restrictors still. Funny it seems people are against running the spline driven pump gears say there isn't enough "movement" for slight crank imperfections and could chew up the pump. sigh.....
  23. Funny you say that, I own a RB25 but mainly tune SR20s lol. Rebuild plans so far, still indecisive about a few items: Spool rebuild kit with the CP Pistons, Spool Sump, Camtech 264 mini-brappers, Performance Springs Now the indecisive items: Spool spline oil pump gears with an N1 pump, and Spool head drain. Also my thoughts, if I run the head drain there wouldn't real need to run oil restrictor right? or wrong?
  24. No need, less back pressure is a good thing, means motor will be more efficient
×
×
  • Create New...