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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. sure will, won't disclose too much information about the turbo (as I know Tao likes to keep the specs away from the internet). But here's the exducer measurement of the compressor wheel. Note it's a 6+6 blade top, so will dose till the cows come home
  2. Come on Adrian, I've got pretty much the same car, a slightly better fuel system than you, same ish motor, same ish turbo (well not anymore) and not once did I have issues with the fuel return. Stop over thinking it, on idle I can easily get my fuel pressure down to 2 bar and the ethanol sensor is connected on the return line straight out of my FPR. Not to mention I've been on the track countless times without a single problem using a pump that probably flows nearly double of yours. Now if you were running a surge tank with twin pumps on full noise all day then you "might" have an issue with the return being too small.
  3. Dial in more intake advance and pull timing out before 5k to get the turbo on faster.
  4. Low timing more boost, however you risk very high EGTs, but you can go shit rich to cool the EGTs a bit. E85 is best in this scenario.
  5. Many ways to skin a cat, Toshi likes to tune with loads of timing, loads of fuel but not too much boost. He takes the "let's throw in heaps of fuel so it won't knock" approach - which is completely fine however in the event IATs increase or you use a bad batch of fuel things can end in unfavourable ways.
  6. Get cams that provide more lift as that will produce power, duration will move the power band to the right. So (I know Lithium will have a different view) get cams that provide a little bit more duration so the power doesn't nose over early and find ones that provide the most lift possible with your setup (ie head constraints)
  7. Stage 2, what about stage 6? Americans and their stages.. Just as bad as VAG owners with their stage 1, 2, 3 reflashes for 1.2k lol. Get some better injectors and run a bit more boost. Boost doesn't kill motors, rubbish tunes do. Also, either throw out your HKS exhaust for a proper 3.5" custom system or cut apart the muffler and remove the internal restrictor, then weld it back together.
  8. I just wasted quite a bit of money since reading your thread LOL.
  9. ^ woodruff snaps, then crank/cam drive sprocket moves just enough and jams itself with the remaining woodruff. You'll be surprised
  10. What you need to do is say at X load and Y RPM, make all the surround areas all 10 degrees of timing.. then load hold the dyno at roughly that RPM and that load point/area then shine a timing gun at the motor and see if it's showing the same timing as per prescribed at on the timing map. Another possible thing that "may" have happened, check the woodruff key on the crank. It might have snapped off and both your cams vs. crank is off. I have seen it happen with my own eyes on a SR I worked on.
  11. At least it will make more torque than a RB20 lol
  12. Ahh fuark.. just also ordered: Performance Springs - 85lb Valve springs & Titanium Retainers GKTech Camber Lockout kit A bunch of seals and shit to reseal the motor8
  13. Should hold a timing gun when it's load held on the dyno, see if the timing isn't fluctuating due to a bad cas or timing belt deflection.
  14. good job man, looking at your build is motivating me to fix up my shit box
  15. So... I've kinda been on a hiatus with the stupid car/build. Thought about stripping it and buying a Golf GTI or R. But I hate euro tax, I hate that I can't tune the car myself, I hate that there are no plug in aftermarket ECUs for those heaps of shit, the hate list goes on for a while. I am not happy with paying someone wanker $1.2k for a bullshit "flash tune" which I know comprises of nothing special. So yeah, JDM revival time betches! So ended up selling the old block but kept the sump. Upon removal it looked like someone had throw glitter into the motor lol. At least it lasted, and defied all Internet belief that you can't run more than 1.3bar on a stock RB25. During my downtime, I may have purchased this: And because I want 400kW now (for internetz credits, street cred and my sheer hate of VW tax) I bought some wanky Tomei 260/9.15mm cams and ARP head studs. Contemplating if I should pull off the head and replace the head gasket, do the valve seals and also install new valve springs. Time will tell, after all this shit box has been off the road for 5 months now and hopefully once she's back on the road she stays on the road and not broken. More to come..
  16. PM me your exact mods, and what is connected to what input and how everything is wired up e.g. AN1 goes to IAT, etc. I'll send you a tune file tonight when I'm at home on my tuning laptop.
  17. Completely standard internals, even the OEM head gasket. However I did have some coolant being pushed out so I installed new ARP head studs as a band aid solution. Damage was already done, but the motor lasted another year of heavy track abuse, left plenty of mental shavings in the sump too! But yeah 18psi, street use with the occasional drag strip will last ages if you tuner has a clue about tuning
  18. Nah, that's rubbish. It's not boost that blows apart motors, it's timing and or torque. I "had" a 300 000+ motor running with 1.8bar worth of boost for a good amount of time and thrashed regularly at the track too. It died about 3 years later lol
  19. I'll be honest with you, if you go through the efforts of removing the stock turbo to replace, you might as well go for something that's going to be of a decent size.
  20. You can easily put 300kW down without issue, if you know what you're doing to the geometry of the rear end and also pairing it up to decent mechanical LSD (none of this homo locked or shimmed business). Putting 400kW down starts to get hard.
  21. If you need Nistune boards or a Nistune board fitted I can organise them for a good price. Also have the ECU bench tested and loaded with a base map with whatever injectors and afm mix you have so your car is driveable to your favourite tuner.
  22. depends you using the internal map sensor or an external one? and if so where is it wired into? and do you know the linear scaling for it?
  23. eh? no man.. you just scale the injectors that's it.. there is no need to divide and or scale anything. It's not a PowerFC
  24. Get your ECU Nistuned, use the 3D map to control your boost win.
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