Kinkstaah

Pictured - 9.5 +27 with 265's Bottom pic is *after* rolling/pulling guards.

Hey mate. They're basically perfect, as I have 9.5 and +27 all round. You WILL need to roll/lip the guards if you want to run chunky tyres. I run 265's all round and I do not get scrub and I mean that will barely fit. The 9.5 +38/+35 will hit at the front. Need a spacer. IMO, the +27 at the rear pokes more than the front does, I was suprised that when putting same wheel size on all 4 the fronts natrually are a little more in. I want a 10+38 on the rear so I can run a 285/295 for max tyre. So ultimately, you may need a spacer or two if you go for the +35/38 combination, the 27 will max it out. 35 with some spacers/extended studs will get it to sit in a little.

Until you see some of the fast modded boats go around, read something like 4-5G in cornering ability, in a boat. Was like um ok!

IWG versions of most EFR setups have proven to be a bit disappointing. Don't forget this turbo has a rear end wheel bigger than a gt35, it will always be 'laggy' its a pretty big turbo, not being able to spin it up due to gate issues (or 98) will take the wind out of it.

Because it was never needed for any other turbo and rough approximations by power seem to have done the job 100% of the time [emoji14]

Is it just a pair of the rp01s or a full set?

I have this turbo so a vested interest on how this turns out [emoji14]

I thought caltex stopped selling e85 many years ago now? Only Vic?

Get a 7163 - Have seen and driven it in action on a 2L. 0.8 or perhaps larger rear housing. Don't flirt with overspeed, this isn't overspeeding at 320kw, which is great for your target or 275-300.

Sold/Delete etc!

I don't even know what shocks I have, Only that they are pretty good. I wrote down B6, so I figure when I had them off the car in the past... I wrote this down then... Bilstein Aus said the leak is a bit normal as they tend to weep when used normally, as long as it's not leaving trails or actual drops of oil on the shock itself it's not blown. They also said a lot of shops diagnose them as blown when in reality they are working as expected. Kind of nice of them to not just take the money to fix things.

They were, and they are now closed/rebranded as "H&R". I went to them when they were still quadrant and they said that the place was for sale at the time. Bilstein Australia actually said they have no local dealers. (via FB).

Bilstein will rebuild them, but they're in Sydney and the turnaround time is ~3 weeks during which I have no car.. Therein lies my problem!

Anyone know a mob in Melbourne that will actually rebuild a shock?

But this is on the full race website, on a 2JZ Supra running 20psi. This is a 7670, 1.05. It's not rolling over at the top. I wager mine would actually be similar to this, but yes just guessing. Given when testing boost I was able to hit 32psi (oops!!) at the same RPM that the spike ordinarily would happen (i.e, comes on boost) Closing the gate, knowing its damn closed (hence 32psi) doesn't bring it on any earlier. It's also worth knowing that after this 32psi experiement I blew off the hose that runs between the plenum and the idle control. All the others were secure, clamped, don't appear to be leaking etc. Will obviously double check VCT and such on the dyno, but I really think it simply is working as-is.

Having a look at a 9174 (when they were all bought) the rear of the 7670 1.05 is actually basically the same damn size. I am sure at this point an 8374 would do what the 7670 does but with just more power tbh. The delivery of the thing belies its "lag" as it really does just get on boost and keep pulling in a very linear, very stable very unrelenting fashion. There's no power skids here (almost, though!) and personally I like that. If I did have monster midrange, I would have setup boost by gear to effectively create what I currently have. The target was always about 350kw running moderately lazy because I have melted manifolds and rear housings in the past at the track - so I suppose I have this and it fits the bill. It just feels a bit agricultural to be using open loop, but in the grand scheme of things I had to control the controller manually to get the result. Will have a dyno result in about 3 weeks when it goes there and shall test the accuracy of my butt dyno.

It's a full progate. As more testing unfolds (i.e line directly to gate) it's starting to really look like the boost threshold is something I have to live with. It will spike when running directly between compressor housing and bottom port of wastegate with nothing else attached. When it wants to spin up it really will spin up. Suppose it's just a compromise from choosing the setup I ended up choosing. Looking at the exhaust housings back to back is pretty telling, and I chose the turbo so it wouldn't be maxxed out/overheated/choked etc, so I ended having that at the expense of less power and more lag relative to the Garrett Option With 0% duty cycle it (boost) behaves the same as being connected directly to the turbo with nothing in the middle of it. This will cause boost to come on full at about 4500rpm (3rd) and peak at 15psi, I've then fed in duty cycle to continue it to climb up to about 19. I'd change the housing at the rear, but there is no housing to change to. Being RWD perhaps there's not much sense having 20psi at 3000RPM anyhow.. car feels pretty planted and on the edge of slip all the way through the rev range so I suppose that's also good. Still think the 7670 EWG (1.05) would be bad news on a 2.5 with that housing though. OFC if someone buys one and has wildly excellent results then I'll go hunting for fixes again

This morning I did exactly that, and run a line directly from the compressor housing and the bottom port of the 50mm gate. Drove to work, will post logs when I do some actual testing. Response felt about the same and it made 12psi pretty solidly, at least as much as you can see "solidly" when looking at a gauge and not at the road. Just for Geoff, it's a 7670 with a 1.05 rear on a 2.8 with VCT. The housing is really massive. The below picture is a comparison betrween the EFR (bottom obviously) and a GTX3582 with a .82 rear.

Alright I did some more testing as promised, and you can see what the logs look like below. First three small runs I had the controller setup as a 4 port mac. Last two I disconnected the top hose, so boost isn't being fed into the top chamber. As you can see there's more duty cycle there from the controller - So that may be just inducing a small boost leak into the system. In any case you can see how the controller does drop off from 100% to ~20% duty cycle, there's clearly a delay and a spike. This is with the controller being told to stop going 100% 6psi before hitting target boost, which is 18psi. Note: These pulls were in 3rd gear. The first 3 were up a big hill, (obviously me backing off as boost was spiking out of control) as was the last one. I moved the source for controller from my charge pipe just before intake, to the compressor housing, but it doesn't seem to have made much difference in terms of responding quicker. boost.csv

Yes, it's running a 5in cat in there. I can try and post a log, but it'd be a day or so or two or three weeks before doing that because not so easy to organize such a run lol. However there is no table for transient timing advance on the PS2000. So the timing is going to be what the base map is specifying.

It's a 6boost T4 TS Manifold with a 50mm external gate on it. I think the merge is pretty shitful to be honest, but again, not the only one running a gate in this manner. I am using the BOV internal to the EFR itself I attached a picture of my exhaust merge. It is a 3in from the dump, and 2in from the wastegate that merge into the 3.5 section after the cat. I have used this with the controller off. I had all of this setup in the past with a GTX3582 making 420+ through the auto and downsized to use a smaller turbo with the EFR. I was able to run as low as 4psi with the GTX3582 with a gate off the turbine housing, so I know the controller works/is disabled when everything is zeroed out. I did get boost spikes back then too, way way WAY worse, which I had assumed happened when loading up the car through the converter in a high gear. But now manual, now EFR, similar problem. Trying to run low (18psi) boost is some tiny amount of duty cycle, which I can only assume is a byproduct of 1.05 housing and 2.8 and a small compressor. The 5 port I have because I've always had it. Scottynm35 provided it way back in the day. The only difference I can see is that it has 2 exhaust ports instead of 1 - It still runs off 2 wires like any other boost controller connected to a Haltech PS2000. I suspect it's setup related, that the gate angle is just crap and a "big" motor spinning a "small" turbo on sharp opening of throttle, perhaps a little 'worse' given how responsive/transient the EFR is.

Guess I'll have to do some investigating. I know for a fact the lines aren't fked or leaking because sadly they have been checked 500 times over the years, and I just checked them in the carpark just now... Car is going on the dyno when I come back from overseas, so will actually post the result then. Keen to see what the difference between auto and manual truly is. Note: I have a 5 port mac solenoid, with 2 vents, (IN, A, B, EXA, EXB), but from all accounts it appears to be plumbed up correctly. Oddly enough, Fullrace sell a 4 port which I'm assuming functions the same, https://www.full-race.com/store/garrett-turbos/full-race-4-port-boost-control-solenoid-1/ However they list two different configurations for plumbing, one for EWG and the opposite for a Twin Port IWG setup, which I always thought effectively behaved like an external gate. Worst case I play with it on the dyno and see/replicate the spike and just enjoy more midrange

I have a 7670 and personally reckon it's a big big for a stock 25. I have a 2.8 and wished it was a little more repsonsive, I don't think i'd be happy with it myself on a 2.5. My vote is for a GTX3071, but if you demand specific power and only have access to 98, you may need to have some lag to get there.

Yes, it does the same thing, but sharply opening the throttle, when the system is already under load/under boost makes it all happen much more severely. Happens in open loop, closed loop and well directly connected. Open loop is 'easier' to manage because you can just hard set the duty cycle of the controller as opposed to using PID settings which are really hard to calculate when the boost is just doing whatever the fk it likes and won't behave consistently anyway. It could be the gate setup, but it's a 6boost with a 50mm Turbosmart gate. There's nothing overly special about it. Maybe this happens to everyone and I drive like a spastic.

If I do a pull from 2000, it'll spike a little. If I load it up (hill, whatever, and punch it/transition from 50% throttle to 100%) it will spike much much more, it's entirely reproducible actually. The way to 'manage' it is actually to really make sure to really, really rev out every gear, or run much less boost than I wanted to. Neither of these are really optimal... Given it happens with the controller off, I was thinking it's either setup related or turbo related. Hence me asking if anyone noticed any funny business with the EFR's super happy transient response-o-rama.