Duncan

You don't need to replace the stock BOV.

they just look like they got too hot (front left, correct?). I've done a gazillion wakie laps on v70 (they used to be our control tyres), nothing fundamentally wrong with them, actually they were pretty good for the price

you know, you should cosinder buying a r33 gtst. they could be fun on a race track! look nice in white

Well, 1. Advice on any web forum is worth what you pay for it. 2. NFI what your doubts might me from that post.

perfectly safe. Nothing can cause 2jz to fail

Sounds awesome man, enjoy. Hope the yanks don't invade until next year tho.

How good is it to have piece of rod on top of the cross member to put up on the wall of shame!

exactly, you literally just tap the correct wires at the dash because they all operate the way the dash requires, including the handbrake. (potentially excluding speed and fuel level sender as discussed above)

well, it did take 11 years and the retirement of the stagea from towing now I've go the Titan.... I dropped the stagea off at Unigroup a while back and asked them to freshen up the engine (400,000klm+ on the original head by now) and to put a bigger turbo and stuff on it. Told them I still didn't need it to make 400kw and they obliged. Pretty damn whooshy.

Will do, and thanks for using report; that lets any mod pick it up to action as we have time to do so. One challenge in this case...I can't edit posts since the forum upgrade either. But will fix these as soon as that problem is sorted.

Hi Daniel, can do, please just report each post you need edited to make sure we get them all.

sounds like turbo lag...

then, adjust away! you can see if the lines are bled properly (2 person) with one pressing the clutch and one watching the slave cylinder move. There should be less than 1cm free play on the clutch pedal before the slave starts moving. Also, while under there you can check the slave actuator rod is resting on the fork (no slack) without any pressure on the pedal

It isn't really normal to have coilovers at the same seat height to achieve an even ride height, particularly if you are measuring height with a driver on board (as there generally is when the car is moving). After a corner weighting process where the ride height with driver is set reasonably even on the diagonals for best balance, the uncompressed spring ride heights are often very different.

Yes, it sounds like it is not disengaging fully, so bleeding the line is the place to start. It can be hard to bleed well, particularly if the long factory line (damper) is still in place. One way is to fill the master, add a small piece of hose to the slave bleed nipple and open the bleeder and let it gravity bleed for a while. And yes, if the take up point is quite high you can adjust it at the pedal by undoing the lock nut and turning the threaded rod at the pedal to lengthen it. Keep in mind that if this is the problem it means you clutch is almost certainly totally worn, and when you replace it (shortly) you will need to adjust the pedal back up again. There are a bunch of other reasons it might not release properly including release bearing carrier size issues, but air in the lines or worn clutch/pedal adjustment are the most likely if it has been working properly in the past.

It is not my area of expertise (either theoretically or practically), but I understand 300klmh+ will require 1000hp+

180mph = ~280kph, right? Most likely you won't have the power in 5th to get there, and on a runway you won't have enough distance from a standing start to get close to that. tyres would be the only thing I'd be even slightly concerned about, so use a quality tyre with appropriate load and speed ratings, and pressure. well, that and an accurate wheel alignment with a little toe in for stability. just an example, here our v8 supercar category run about 650hp, and over a 2klm downhill straight they are about 295km/h, and that is leaving a corner at about 100, not from a standing start.....

I like the sound of where you work! How did you bend valves, some sort of timing/timing belt issue? Other than getting too large (ie if it was already 87mm), I would definitely bore the block out and reuse the current sleeves. Of course the liners can be replaced but that is a lot of precision work when a bore would do the job (noting, depending on access to equipment that may not be too expensive for you). The bores (when measured/machined correctly) are not a problem point on RBs Re the head...normally you would get a fresh bare head because they aren't that expensive, even brand new, but again, if you have the tools and knowhow, welding and remachining may be an option.

Any hint of which car you are talking about? hiace van? hyundai i30? maserati quatroporte?

Thanks el-Pranko, the truncated emails are sorted

The other option for R32 with original dash is the electronic sender from r33/stagea etc should also fit. It may not be right for the original dash as they assume certain diff ratios, but you calibrate the haltech pulses as described above so that probably doesn't matter. Keep in mind you lose a lot of functionality without the stock dash. No oil pressure warning. No front torque gauge. No fuel warning light (yes you have a gauge but it's funny how easy that is to miss). No 4wd or ABs warning lights. No Odometer or trip meter. No brake warning light (handbrake/fluid level) etc etc etc

Noting the 2 posters above are talking R34 and R33, the R32 setup is quite different again. It uses a mechanical drive from the gearbox to the speedo in the dash, and then the speedo itself provides the ECU speed signal. So, unless the Haltech GPS module (not the racepack one grrr) is able to supply the required speed signal, the R32 dash pretty much needs to be kept if you want speedo signal to ECU and IC7. In the R32 wiring (which I believe is same as R33), the ECU speedo input is pin 53. Easiest place to pick up speedo and fuel level (and handbrake, indicators and high beam) in a 32 is at the dash. Calibration for R32 fuel gauge is:

And annoyingly, the IQ3 dash GPS is not available on the Haltech CAN, so you end up needing 2 GPS receivers

And while we are collecting little annoyances here.....the notification emails now only include the first 100ish characters instead of the whole message now, which makes it much harder to quickly monitor posts, since I have to login to the site to see any remainder of the post

Yeah apart from the quite different tone, rod big end bearings (most common failure) are noisier when cold (thicker oil, higher clearances) and noiser when you rev it (rod moves faster, failed bearing lets it move more), and the speed of the knock increases with revs too. It is quite a distinctive "gnomes with hammers inside your engine" noise