Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

I ran last weekend at the Symmons Plains 60th annaverary meet. Unfortunately after a good run the engine decided to throw a rod.  I've got the engine out but havn't pulled the sump off yet, I suspect a rod bolt has failed as it had oil pressure when it failed.

Time to build the 2.2

DSC_0492.JPG

These were on the cross member

DSC_0497.JPG

Edited by sav man
  • Sad 5

Yeah it was pretty uneventful from the inside.  I assumed i'd melted a piston, but my mates informed me when I got towed back in that there was a loud bang and there was bits all over the track.

The bottom end is stock crank and rods, arp rod bolts and ross pistons.  I've been using those rods since 2011, so they have done alot of work and I think i put the rod bolts in around 2012.

Well at least you have a crank case breather now, we all know RBs love to pressurise the crank case and not allowing oil to drain effectively back into the sump.

Time for a 3.2L 1000hp motor?

  • 1 month later...

I finally got round the pulling the engine down.  The head had barely been marked, so that's a win.

 

The bottom end is quire the mess though.  Pretty sure I found that the broken rod bolt, looks like a clean brake compared to the rest of the mangled mess

DSC_0551.JPG

DSC_0552.JPG

DSC_0553.JPG

DSC_0556.JPG

DSC_0557.JPG

DSC_0558.JPG

  • Like 1
17 hours ago, Roy said:

YIKES. So where to from here? There was an RB20 NEO on Marketplace just before XMAS. I had to resist being me :)

I was going to go down that path, even have a inlet gasket to make a manifold adaptor.  But Targa rules changed again, so 26 crank and rods and a slight bore to bring to to just under 2.2l.  Swap the RB20 highflow for a Neo highflow

  • Like 1
On 1/8/2021 at 11:44 PM, MoMnDadGTR said:

can you have the head machined(skimmed) with the valves still in the motor? 

The head has to be off the engine and cams removed, but yes i've had head skimmed with the valves still in it.

1 hour ago, sav man said:

The head has to be off the engine and cams removed, but yes i've had head skimmed with the valves still in it.

Would be pretty amazing to do it with the head on the engine 👍

  • Haha 1
2 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Would be pretty amazing to do it with the head on the engine 👍

lol would have better luck fitting a golf ball through a garden hose, ended up striping the whole head and porting it anyway so she will be bare at the machine shop. good to know for future tho so dont have to remove the head components everytime. thanks mates 

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
    • That's my life. Past-Duncan has a lot to answer for
×
×
  • Create New...