Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Great job mate. Easy isn't it!Best kept secret, can't believe nobody gave it a ago before me.

Slippy, it is the 350z that needs a bit of extension.

Put the extended 350Z mid-pipe in (has been passed around a few cars on this forum I think...) yesterday. As mentioned, bit more note, bit more performance. The thing I noticed was smoother throughout the rev range. I had a bit of a flat spot that's gone now.

Dead-easy fit, bolt straight in!

EXCEPT... Nuts on the front flange were rusted solid... Rounded off nicely with the right sized ring spanner... Angle-grinder to get them off, then the studs wouldn't come out so had to drill them out. 20 minute job took all afternoon! Still, happy with the results - CHEAP and easy upgrade. Keeps the minister for domestic affairs happy too!

Put the extended 350Z mid-pipe in (has been passed around a few cars on this forum I think...) yesterday. As mentioned, bit more note, bit more performance. The thing I noticed was smoother throughout the rev range. I had a bit of a flat spot that's gone now.

Dead-easy fit, bolt straight in!

EXCEPT... Nuts on the front flange were rusted solid... Rounded off nicely with the right sized ring spanner... Angle-grinder to get them off, then the studs wouldn't come out so had to drill them out. 20 minute job took all afternoon! Still, happy with the results - CHEAP and easy upgrade. Keeps the minister for domestic affairs happy too!

That my old one is it? Good to see its back in NSW!

My air con hasn't been working, which is somewhat understandable with some of the high temps we've seen lately in Adelaide.

I figured it might have something to do with the thermo fan, which hasn't worked since I put it in. I have never seen it spin.

Hooked the multimeter up, and only measured a negligible voltage. I cut off the dodgy solder connection, and put new crimp connectors on. Tested with a 9V battery, and the fan span up and ran fine.

So the problem must be the signal to the fan - the car just isn't switching it on. Is there a fuse I should be looking for, or is the car just deciding it doesn't need to kick this fan in?

I seem to remember this fan also sitting in front of the air con condenser, so thought this could be responsible for the crap air con.

Any ideas?

got stuck in stop/start traffic on the way home, and got bored so started playing with my fc commander. Good thing, because I noticed the coolant temp was higher than it should be (102deg) , and creeping higher.

So I managed to get it to my mech's workshop (was on my way there anyway), and discovered that I had melted the fuse for my thermo fan. Lucky Lucky Lucky I caught it in time: coolant reached a max of 115deg before shutdown....

I'm now looking at other options: breaker instead of fuse on thermo, or like I orinally wanted: twin thermos on independent circuits: I'm all about redundancy... Opinions?

Finally fitted my full exhaust on my M35 replacing the old, tired Kakimoto R cat-back

Fitted the AM Performance dump and mid-pipe along with a brand new SS Kakimoto R cat-back

Impressions..

Much deeper sound, revs so much more freely and quicker up the ranges.

Spools alot louder and harder. Just sounds so much better

Very impressed over all. Spent over $2K all up and had to wait 2 months but I'm happy..

Highly recommend all items.

got stuck in stop/start traffic on the way home, and got bored so started playing with my fc commander. Good thing, because I noticed the coolant temp was higher than it should be (102deg) , and creeping higher.

So I managed to get it to my mech's workshop (was on my way there anyway), and discovered that I had melted the fuse for my thermo fan. Lucky Lucky Lucky I caught it in time: coolant reached a max of 115deg before shutdown....

I'm now looking at other options: breaker instead of fuse on thermo, or like I orinally wanted: twin thermos on independent circuits: I'm all about redundancy... Opinions?

Stock fan!

Finally fitted my full exhaust on my M35 replacing the old, tired Kakimoto R cat-back

Fitted the AM Performance dump and mid-pipe along with a brand new SS Kakimoto R cat-back

Glad you're very happy with the results, but I am confused.

Kakimoto R (and N1 for that matter) only came in stainless steel. DO you have a pic of the cat-back that was removed by any chance?

Glad you're very happy with the results, but I am confused.

Kakimoto R (and N1 for that matter) only came in stainless steel. DO you have a pic of the cat-back that was removed by any chance?

Maybe it was just a really "old and tired" kaki replaced by a shiny new one...LOL

wish I had the $$$ to replace my not so old but dented Legalis with a new one!

Glad you're very happy with the results, but I am confused.

Kakimoto R (and N1 for that matter) only came in stainless steel. DO you have a pic of the cat-back that was removed by any chance?

No picture but definitely mild steel. Had rust spots everywhere. I didn't know mild was an option but I guess it was back then. It a very old looking unit, the old one had a mid muffler as opposed to a resonator on the new unit.

BTW Ian, got the BOSE sub running.. not bad for a tiny sub. Does the job perfectly!

Is this the factory Bose spare wheel sub into a non Bose factory head unit? Please PM connection details if it is.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...