Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

That's awesome!

Bit of an update.

Got a new gearbox in today. Old one didn't have synchros in 3rd or 4th any more..

Cage is now painted. What a pain in the arse job!!! Don't want to do that again!

Another full day at the factory tomorrow for more prep for Winton next monday.

Had a big successful weekend.

Cage is now painted. Like I said. Don't wanna do that again!

Interior is back together.

Replacement gearbox

The car is back together and pretty much ready for Winton.

With help from my mate Johnny we had the alignment finished at 1am last night! We set up camber, caster and toe. I'm back working in Swan hill for the week so had to get as much done as possible before I left.

Before Winton I still need to finish wiring in my new AFR guage, change the oil, fix my camera mount to my new cage and I'm ready to go!

post-10715-0-78771700-1338896739_thumb.jpgpost-10715-0-15884400-1338896749_thumb.jpgpost-10715-0-50821600-1338896789_thumb.jpgpost-10715-0-56271900-1338896804_thumb.jpg

Next up is corner weighing! Will be interesting to see how much it weighs!

Had a big successful weekend.

Cage is now painted. Like I said. Don't wanna do that again!

Interior is back together.

Replacement gearbox

The car is back together and pretty much ready for Winton.

With help from my mate Johnny we had the alignment finished at 1am last night! We set up camber, caster and toe. I'm back working in Swan hill for the week so had to get as much done as possible before I left.

Before Winton I still need to finish wiring in my new AFR guage, change the oil, fix my camera mount to my new cage and I'm ready to go!

post-10715-0-78771700-1338896739_thumb.jpgpost-10715-0-15884400-1338896749_thumb.jpgpost-10715-0-50821600-1338896789_thumb.jpgpost-10715-0-56271900-1338896804_thumb.jpg

Next up is corner weighing! Will be interesting to see how much it weighs!

Hah it's been ages since I've seen someone do the string alignment! I'd be curious to learn how you do it!

Yeah bris. At least it's only the battery!

Jack. The string alignment is basically an even rectangle around the car and measurements taken from there. Requires lots of patience. Camber and Caster is done with a made up tool. Courtesy of Femino (ACE Workshop) :)

Thanks Bris!

Massive day today at Winton. Had dramas all morning but I think I can put it down to me starting to look at the guages a lot more. Oil pressure dropped from like 6-8 bar to 2 bar sharply under brakes and picked up almost immediately after every time. This was very off putting and didn't seem right. I'm thinking that is always done it and I'm just taking more notice now that I'm stressing everything more.

In an attempt to try and stop the surge we put more oil in and it just blew into the catch can and put oil all over the engine bay. This might be just the icing on the cake coz I can't remember the last time I emptied the catch can... :whistling:

After this had settled down and I was trusting the setup more I was starting to lean on it and wow... the E85 pulls like a frieken train!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's unbelievable! 295's offered lots of grip even though the are quite 2nd hand. New coil overs were very nice and probably a little more settled than the old set. Not sure why but didn't get any turn in over steer like I did with the RE's.

Footage will come but the final time for today was 1:31.29 that's 2.4 secs faster than last year at SAU nats in October and now the fastest skyline around Winton on Semi's. Not sure how long it can stay like that for though haha. Thanks to all that helped out at the track or on the phone.

Disagree...If you do plumb it back to the sump then at least put a valve on it. You want to be able to observe how much blow by you are getting and if the oil is draining back then you dont have the opportunity to monitor. Myabe with a valve you can simply open the valve and drain it back at the end of a session. Also, catch cans are open to atmosphere generally and fill up with condensation and rubbish in a rarely driven track car that is only being turned over to move around factory or put on trailers etc.

Great stuff Russman.

So what rims and offset you have on the rear end of the car? Are you running GTR rear guards... have they been rolled?

Sorry I probably missed it earlier in the thread, thanks.

Thanks Bris!

Massive day today at Winton. Had dramas all morning but I think I can put it down to me starting to look at the guages a lot more. Oil pressure dropped from like 6-8 bar to 2 bar sharply under brakes and picked up almost immediately after every time. This was very off putting and didn't seem right. I'm thinking that is always done it and I'm just taking more notice now that I'm stressing everything more.

In an attempt to try and stop the surge we put more oil in and it just blew into the catch can and put oil all over the engine bay. This might be just the icing on the cake coz I can't remember the last time I emptied the catch can... :whistling:

After this had settled down and I was trusting the setup more I was starting to lean on it and wow... the E85 pulls like a frieken train!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's unbelievable! 295's offered lots of grip even though the are quite 2nd hand. New coil overs were very nice and probably a little more settled than the old set. Not sure why but didn't get any turn in over steer like I did with the RE's.

Footage will come but the final time for today was 1:31.29 that's 2.4 secs faster than last year at SAU nats in October and now the fastest skyline around Winton on Semi's. Not sure how long it can stay like that for though haha. Thanks to all that helped out at the track or on the phone.

Awsome work!

I had the same problem with my setup....Under hard braking....pressures dropped to about 20psi.... Although my motor didnt pop.. i am now going dry sump.

I ran a Tomei Oil pump with a Hi Octane Sump.... there was always enough oil in this but alot of workshops could not help with my problem. I was talking to a few people

and got some tips off the Gibsons GTR sump design with pickup points/baffling etc.... BUT one thing that did help was a Morroso accumulater (i actually have one spare now :P)

it stored ~1litre of oil under pressure and would expel when pressures dropped.... not really designed for this purpose of pressure drops under braking but helped my circumstances..... I was contemplating to do a external pickup but was too much mucking about on a 4WD that was already running. Also driving style helps... if you can try to settle the car more going into

these corners!!!... hope this helps

:cheers:

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...