Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There is a setting for metric in there. Use that and everything changes.

Hi Chris

I read somewhere in a Canadian forum that the setting in the US cluster preferences changes all to kph except the actual odometer. This continues to show miles (and I assume count up in miles). Is this true? e.g. I get we can flash eprom to make the odometer show current car kms but if it continues to count up in miles it will quickly become inaccurate.

Also a lesser but annoying item with US cluster is that kph is the inside ring and the outside larger lettering shows mph. I have not found anybody selling a new facia but this guy could be asked.

http://www.blackcatcustom.ca/infiniti_g35.htm

Edited by mybrains

Thanks guys, yes CDN seems the go. In my hunt I see both Nav and non Nav versions of the speedos. Whats the difference? I would have thought the cluster didnt have anything to display nav wise (but maybe it has something to do with providing the nav system with driving info?

I have a Nav car, but am currently seeing a non Nav CDN speedo. I wonder if it will work (or can be modded to work - maybe by transferring something from my existing JDM cluster?)

I'm quite interested in changing over my dash cluster screen to display in English too, but is there any reason we can't just change the actual screen components within our jap clusters???

Or are people just changing the whole cluster because it's near on impossible to find just the actual screen itself without buying a whole cluster?

BurtoN86,

inside is pretty integrated (screen to main PCB and externally to ECU) and I doubt the lcd swap alone would work but hell, give it a go and report back.

Also the facia on JDM models only goes to 180kph whereas Canadian goes to 260kph so a facia swap wont work by itself either. Its just much easier to swap the unit whole and be done.

I scored a Canadian FX35 08 cluster a will attempt to use it in a 2010 EX35... physically looks the same but no idea if it will swap. If not, anybody with a FX can contact me for a Eng 260kph speedo :)

Edited by mybrains

BurtoN86,

inside is pretty integrated (screen to main PCB and externally to ECU) and I doubt the lcd swap alone would work but hell, give it a go and report back.

Also the facia on JDM models only goes to 180kph whereas Canadian goes to 260kph so a facia swap wont work by itself either. Its just much easier to swap the unit whole and be done.

I scored a Canadian FX35 08 cluster a will attempt to use it in a 2010 EX35... physically looks the same but no idea if it will swap. If not, anybody with a FX can contact me for a Eng 260kph speedo :)

Dont think the FX series were ever sold in japan under the Nissan badge thus none out there with 180km/h cluster either imo...

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Ah, you're missing out on the most fun thing: learning to give voice commands in Japanese. Stinking hot day and saying "Air con ju-hachi do" gets a few laughs from the passengers. :P

I tried this today and had a good giggle. Got any more commands I can try? :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah. OK. I take it back. I hadn't looked closely at the R33/4 arms and presumed that GKTech did as GKTech do everywhere else, which is to use sphericals there. The poly bushings are made to be 100% interchangeable, should use the standard bolt just fine. Every other bush in every other place in pretty much every other car, does.
    • @silviaz Ok cool, so much easier with a video. I can see why this video would be confusing for new players.   It is obvious that this entire bonnet is going to be resprayed, have a look in the background around 2:05, you can see a bunch of bare metal on the left side of the bonnet.  It's not an issue for the primer being laid down on the non-prepped clear on the bonnet. It will be sanded off at a later stage.  This might not be obvious to new players, but working on bare metal and factory paint in this instance, the factory paint is like a mountain and the bare metal is a huge valley. The bonnet needs to be levelled flat before it receives it's final stage of colour and clear coat. During this levelling process, the primer that is landing on the clear that you are worried about will be removed.  Also, this guy is out of control. Zero PPE while spraying, maybe he is a good example overall about what not to do lol.
    • Ok I FINALLY found a video lol. This took way longer than it should have as I could have sworn I saw multiple videos like this. I kept finding the completely opposite (the correct way of doing this). I wouldn't be surprised if I f**ked this up somehow.  I just realised where I've been getting confused and even with other things I work on. I haven't been doing things the regular way instead I'm going a roundabout way of doing things, like putting epoxy primer first then filler for example instead of putting just filler then primer on top of that, then wondering what happens if I get that primer on the clear coat that I haven't sanded yet. This was a bit of an epiphany 馃槀  But anyways, here this video. Time stamp, 2:56, some of the primer lands on the paint unscuffed above. You can see from the reflection it looks shiny.  
    • It does, this part circled in red. I assume the OEM bolt might not work well with the poly bushing because the dimensions may be different?
    • The J arm doesn't have bushes either. Assuming that by "J arm" you mean the part of the upright that runs down from the upper arm's outer bushes to the top of the hub. That has a kingpin style bearing in it. If you meant the lower control arm, it has 1 bush, at its inner end. If you have PU in there, that is superior to Nismo rubber. If you meant the caster/tension rod - it has 1x bush at the front end, and again PU is superior to Nismo rubber. But as I said above, I would definitely get the GKTech arms for that, as sphericals slay all other options there.
  • Create New...