Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you have some spare springs available I would chuck something like 7 or 8kg/mm on the front.  If you have some anti roll bars I would do that too although 27mm front sounds odd.  Is it a Whiteline bar or a Cusco?  From memory they are smaller. 22mm?  Anyway the idea is to add more roll stiffness to the rear relative to the front.

Whatever parts you may have try them out to get a feel for setup direction.

At the moment your 16kg spring is trying to resist about 3/4 of the roll which loads the tyre up hard relative to the back.  Then you are asking it to turn aswell.  So you get understeer.

  • Like 1

it was a 27mm front... was a whiteline but custom made... it was the setup I used on my drift car and changed everything when went to MCA reds and therefore std sways

Ive sold those bars now... pretty sure 24mm front 22mm rear is the standard whiteline / r32 setup for circuit

I still have a full set of the teins sitting in a box at 7 and 4  but also have the spare MCA springs

I agree with you on the roll control and turning..  that was my thoughts also ... 

  • 2 weeks later...

updates on recent happenings

 

I wont post a pic of the new diff and tailshaft because well it looks like a diff and tailshaft :6_smile:     but   preload taken out of diff, breather tapped and line run through the floor into a mounted canister / breather. Tailshaft is a 1 piece - saved 4kg there also

 

With that done and the car back at home came the time to sack up and get working on the splitter - can only give these things a go and its cheap enough and just some hours in the garage to get it done

 

 

Basics for those DIYers at home

Specs = 1900 wide, total length is 1200, rake from front to back is circa 2 - 3 deg (roughly)

               The splitter itself weighs 6kg ... total weight with frame nuts bolts paint everything is 10.1kg without cutting any bolts to length yet

 

We actually took just over 1kg of tags etc etc of metal out while we where under there  and saving on tailshaft so far above happens net a 5kg+ gain in weight - albeit at the front

 

We extended some tube ally out the back of the splitter to some sleeves welded tot he chassis rail behind it for stability and ease of install, once slid in there is 6 x 12mm oem bolts to bolt up which is made from tags with oem nuts welded to the back

the ally frame is welded and then bolted to the splitter using m8's and also sikaflexed down

 

Tested it with 50kg in middle 3rd and 30kg on each other third adding weigh bit by bit. Strong no flex at total weight of 110kg with front end coming down 25mm with that weight on spring compression. Didn't go any heavier just wanted to see if it was going rip of easily or not haha

 

all back yard read > making > hoping > trying - but that's half the fun sometimes

 

Splitter v2 - raw.jpg

 

the front lip of the carbon airdam is / will be held down using 7 x M6 bolts with nylocs

 

painted for looks

 

Splitter v2 - black.jpg

 

The current height is 850 front the ground , will be lower the car by 5 mm to get it down to 800 which will be enough, not optimal but don't want to compromise suspension geometry

 

Front.jpg

Front - Side.jpg

 

And pic just because

 

Front - bonnet open.jpg

 

Out in two odd weeks to try and go round and round a track fast

Just basics to do now like wheel alignment and fluids change / check

 

Sway bars are on order but wont be here in time try this..... add sways try that... see if successful in either pursuit and see if I can get some consistent track time over the next 3 months

 

 

 

  • Like 5

Its probably the way the photos are taken Id say its wide but not that wide

 

the carbon lip that comes down directly off the GTR bar is 178cm wide, outside tyre to outside tyre across the front is 182cm and the width of the splittler is 190cm - so its only 6cm a side wider that a normal GTR width and 4cm and side wider than the tyres so when you look at that its not bad at all really

 

And I just do sprints so basically no wheel to wheel action :1310_thumbsup_tone1:

 

  • 2 weeks later...

Quick update:

 

Went out last wed night. Really good night heaps of track time which was great sat a few session out because well Im old and me and the car gets worn out :1_grinning:

 

Long story short the two handling changes being the splitter and the diff has made the world of difference. Id say mostly the diff but all contributes as you know. I have a car that turns now !!!!   so good

 

With invention of actually turning around corners not just the rear end pushing the front through it means I have to accept that I cant just mash the throttle on exit on go so little later on the throttle now with a decent hint of oversteer if  you get it in the wrong  spot, my drifting skills are a bit rusty but got tested a few times trying to find the new limits.

With the wing on 0 deg angle, the rear grip alignment was set at neutral and the rear dampners on hard there is much room for more rear grip to be added

 

I spent most of the night trying to find the new balance as it really was quite different but feel like im actually driving the car now and have taken the handling problems from really big to a now manageable amount through tuning with what I have and am getting.

 

New PB was set just on 5 event old tyres and we did a top 10 shootout at the end of the night (one lap dash) an I was within 0.8 sec of PB on cold tyres etc

 

All in all moving forward and much happier.... for now :8_laughing:

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Build bits and results


Few little additions recently. Trying to run the ride height I wanted to ie: lower was leading to suspension geometry issues. I bought some gkteck knuckles that had 20mm drop built in to attempt to correct that. After what I admit was a fair bit of messing around with the usual change one thing and effect 5 other things we got these in with new bearings, wheel studs etc etc. It served its purpose for both correcting steering geometry and also letting me run the ride height I wanted but correctly.

gktech knuckles.jpg

Gktech knuckles installed.jpg

 





The new tailshaft over the last event and a test and tune was rattling my teeth out with vibration so gave it back to Final Drive who rebalanced it and put that back in and all is good now


Off to Allstar to final give the power a bit of touch up... been running 490hp and 550nm @19 psi successfully Sean gave it another tune I can run off a switch adding 4psi so now 550hp and 660nm full boost at 4100. That's a fair bit of pick up from 4psi.


Everything on the car to remain 'balanced' without it being too pushed or unsafe ie: brakes is made for 500 - 550 hp - try for anymore and I really run out of turbo, injectors, clutch, brakes


The car was also due for some new tyres - I had some fronts I bought cheap from over east new but 3 years old and some new ones for the rear


I also picked up the Vbox for future events so will get that in soon.


Last night ran at the Trackbattle night I like these night cruisey but decently professional good amount of track time and good people. After a bit of rain gave this thing a crack and got a new PB by a decent amount knocking 0.9sec off my existing PB ....lap time doing 2 x 62.1s and I think about 7 - 8 laps in the 62's

 

 

 

 

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
    • Welcome Adam. Car looks great!
    • "With a 1.5-WAY, the LSD is effective only during acceleration."
    • Well it wasn't as easy as I thought.... and it also wasn't in my original manual which I did end up finding. They discuss the process in the Nismo catalogue though and it requires slight machining. Page 145.  NISMO PARTS CATALOGUE 2020
    • I'm an idiot, my intercooler is rated for 1000hp. I had clicked on the wrong product. Knowing the delta P would be nice, but I'm doubtful I'll do it. Now as for an EMAP, that would be great and I'll get around to it eventually but from my findings in my last post, I'm considering a turbo swap now. 
×
×
  • Create New...