Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Relax, mate. I apologise if the way i phrased it upset you.

Also a 32 GTR is less refined than a 34. Fact. It is also 80% the same car as a 34. I got my 32R when it was 15 years old from Japan (2004) so I know as do a lot of folks on here how much they (32-34R) cost to build and run. A 34R is now as old or older than mine when I got it.

btw I didn't generalise as to why it wasn't good advice. I was quite specific.

All good Derrick, it is the internet.

Bonus fact -

1. I wish I had bought an EVO, had more seat time on the track over the years and saved all that cash that goes towards having a GTR.

To the OP. If you want a Skyline. A GTS/T/25T/GTT will still be around in years to come and stay cheap.

Naa its all good mate! I read the post on the train after a long day at work so i was rather moody. I do realize how expensive owning a r34 GTR can be as my friend spent roughly $40,000 on maintenance/mods only to have it stolen a year later. So i'd say Anfanee is also on the money there. Ill admit r34 GTR is probably bad advice, at the time of writing the post i just saw it as a goal and was ignorant of the costs associated with owning one.

Anyway, you clearly know much more about owning GTRs than me, ive only driven them, never owned one :( I was contemplating buying one (r32 or r34 GTR) this year but i couldnt justify purchasing one as the r32 GTR has gone up in price ever since they started selling in the US. I decided to instead put the money towards some real-estate :P Evo shall suffice

I reckon you made the right choice going GTR, they're only going to go up in price while the evo has hit a all time low. Evo 8 MRs go for 23k, 2 years ago they were 30k. All that time and money invested back then will make it that much more special to drive today ;)

$105k Sports car that is 25 years old with a systemic oil starvation issue that has in most cases been modified, driven hard, heaps of KM's under the belt and poorly maintained. Of course it lets go.

Then poorly rebuilt, modified further, tuned and pushed beyond it's limits, again.

Just because it sports a GTR badge does not mean it is a super hero.

GTR's have a rep because of their racing history. Racing teams have big budgets and experience to keep them on the track.

Over engineer it, maintain it and drive it within tolerances if you want it to last and have small ongoing running costs.

If you want a good GTR then build it or pay the premium for one that is done right and then treat it right.

Edited by Sinista32
  • Like 8

I'm not fussed about GTRs. They're awesome and everything, but I'm not going to be in a financial situation to afford and maintain a GTR until I'm in my 30s and by then they'll be way too old. I would be really happy with an R34 GTT on my fulls.

Edited by Wordsmith

$105k Sports car that is 25 years old with a systemic oil starvation issue that has in most cases been modified, driven hard, heaps of KM's under the belt and poorly maintained. Of course it lets go.

Then poorly rebuilt, modified further, tuned and pushed beyond it's limits, again.

Just because it sports a GTR badge does not mean it is a super hero.

GTR's have a rep because of their racing history. Racing teams have big budgets and experience to keep them on the track.

Over engineer it, maintain it and drive it within tolerances if you want it to last and have small ongoing running costs.

If you want a good GTR then build it or pay the premium for one that is done right and then treat it right.

Well said.

Get an EVO instead.. will do better times around Wakefield park, E8/9/10 will do 1m10s around Wakefield 100% stock (although with a pro driver).

A stock R32/33/34 GT-R would have a hard time getting those times.

  • 3 weeks later...

I'm not fussed about GTRs. They're awesome and everything, but I'm not going to be in a financial situation to afford and maintain a GTR until I'm in my 30s and by then they'll be way too old. I would be really happy with an R34 GTT on my fulls.

Thirtys old ,ha ha ha,your never to old for a hpi. :-)

  • Like 1

Thirtys old ,ha ha ha,your never to old for a hpi. :-)

It's not about me being too old, it's about the GTR! By the time I'm 30 the car will be 25. I heard maintenance on GTRs is a lot, even when they're newish. When they're 25 years old, it'll be even more expensive to keep them running right?

It's not about me being too old, it's about the GTR! By the time I'm 30 the car will be 25. I heard maintenance on GTRs is a lot, even when they're newish. When they're 25 years old, it'll be even more expensive to keep them running right?

From what I can work out with Skylines, either they have been flogged to death and sold just before it does POP!.

OR they get looked after. when things are getting worn out, they get upgraded and the only thing old left is the shell as most of the other shit is newish , not 15 or 25 years old . BUT you have to pay for quality.

So you need to know what you are buying, get all the previous work invoices if you can and find out as much about the car you are looking at buying. Do not take the private sellers word without proof, it is an as is sale.

Car yards, get the best warranty you can get from them , check the models value and read the fine print, twice!

  • Like 2

From what I can work out with Skylines, either they have been flogged to death and sold just before it does POP!.

OR they get looked after. when things are getting worn out, they get upgraded and the only thing old left is the shell as most of the other shit is newish , not 15 or 25 years old . BUT you have to pay for quality.

So you need to know what you are buying, get all the previous work invoices if you can and find out as much about the car you are looking at buying. Do not take the private sellers word without proof, it is an as is sale.

Car yards, get the best warranty you can get from them , check the models value and read the fine print, twice!

words of wisdom right here.

The way I look at it, if I'm buying a 20+ year old car I'm expecting to have to spend money making it reliable, and anything that old is a project, not a daily driver. And as said above, the more you replace (or the previous owner replaced) the less there is to go wrong from that point forward.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...