Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, gzro said:

600atw would be nice and slightly more, activated via scramble boost when required would be great.

Feedback i have gotten so far is the 0.92 housing fits perfectly on a 2.6l but on a 2.8l with vcam, maybe i should be looking at something slightly bigger.  I already have the 8374 with 0.92 and getting the 1.05 housing alone is not worth it. 

So the option now is to stick with what i have or sell the 8374 and get the 9180 with 1.05 housing.  Cant remember where I read this but some posted that the response between the 2 are almost the same - maybe 500rpm difference?

 

I've got 8374 1.06 on a 2.6

For a 2.8L i'd def go 9180 1.05

  • Like 1
3 minutes ago, Nismo 3.2ish said:

should be interesting to see the 8374/1.05  on a 3.2 with Vcam   handles it

Your goals are a little left to the "norm". Just need to keep an eye on speed.

  • Like 1

Already have the limiter at 7800 with the 6266 . I just feel if you are going early, you do not have to bash it past 6500 , horses for courses . I am busting to see just where it does get Asthma . Probably close to where it is now ?

Keep an eye on the road mate, not the speed. But that speed sensor you picked up for me will come in handy and may keep some moving parts out of the donk, lol

I think this will suit me just fine :w00t:

9 hours ago, usmair said:

By the way gents, I'm gonna cram another 3-4 psi into the 8374 towards June/July when the weather cools down

See if the stock bottom end can take it

Do it, just don't put too much timing towards and at peak torque. I would even take timing in the middle and ramp it once torque decays.

  • Like 1

What I was recommending is how to preserve the bottom end by limiting torque, so once you past peak torque you can go nuts with the boost and or timing to make the numbers.

This is a technique good EVO tuners use to stop the pencil conrods snapping with stock EVOs making 300kW+

20 hours ago, Nismo 3.2ish said:

should be interesting to see the 8374/1.05  on a 3.2 with Vcam   handles it

I will share some results of 8374 1.05 on a 3.2 for comparison. Pity we can't find a way to measure transient response because that seem's to be where these turbo's annihilate others on the market.

  • Like 2
6 hours ago, sneakey pete said:

Pfft, there's no fun in preserving anything though. Full boost as soon as possible, that's the only way!

ahh you see, if you pull timing you'll get boost even sooner with the expense of not reaching MBT for that RPM at that Load point..

4 hours ago, acsplit said:

I will share some results of 8374 1.05 on a 3.2 for comparison. Pity we can't find a way to measure transient response because that seem's to be where these turbo's annihilate others on the market.

Get ECU to log speed, rmp, boost and TPS over time, get to a speed and stand on the throttle.

53 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

ahh you see, if you pull timing you'll get boost even sooner with the expense of not reaching MBT for that RPM at that Load point..

Ah, thought timing helped with that.
That's why i pay someone to tune my car :P

Note to all.

Finally moved my cam gears on the dyno. Spent 4 hours there yesterday (on a dynocomm inertial - which will soon be eddy brake). I now see what a V-cam would do for you. Moving my Poncam A's closer together (ie-more overlap) yielded undeniable tq gains with no appreciable drop in top end power (my 3" exhaust could be holding me back). I think it liked 8 total degrees of CRANK overlap (2 notches off from '0' on each cam) the best (Advanced intake 4, Retarded exhaust 4), but we did run add another 2 deg (crank) to the intake to bring it to 6 deg intake advance and 4 deg exhaust advance and this is where it stayed (for now). Super choppy idle now, but damn this car pulls like CRAZY now. makes 3 more psi boost at 4k rpms. When I compared 20 psi runs with cams set at 0 the tq goes to the stratosphere. Look at the differences from 4500 rpms to 7k! At 22 psi high number is now 653 whp and 515 wtq but boost control was shakey on these runs (oscillating from 22 down to 18).

It is making 300 WHP at 4k rpms on 20 psi...on 93 octane pumpgas! This is my 8374 EFR .92 IWG on a stock-bore 79mm BC stroker FYI.

 

Just high numbers.jpg

Last dyno 20 psi cams set.jpg

Dyno Cam changes converted.JPG

  • Like 9
On 20.02.2017 at 2:59 PM, HarrisRacing said:

Note to all.

Finally moved my cam gears on the dyno. Spent 4 hours there yesterday (on a dynocomm inertial - which will soon be eddy brake). I now see what a V-cam would do for you. Moving my Poncam A's closer together (ie-more overlap) yielded undeniable tq gains with no appreciable drop in top end power (my 3" exhaust could be holding me back). I think it liked 8 total degrees of CRANK overlap (2 notches off from '0' on each cam) the best (Advanced intake 4, Retarded exhaust 4), but we did run add another 2 deg (crank) to the intake to bring it to 6 deg intake advance and 4 deg exhaust advance and this is where it stayed (for now). Super choppy idle now, but damn this car pulls like CRAZY now. makes 3 more psi boost at 4k rpms. When I compared 20 psi runs with cams set at 0 the tq goes to the stratosphere. Look at the differences from 4500 rpms to 7k! At 22 psi high number is now 653 whp and 515 wtq but boost control was shakey on these runs (oscillating from 22 down to 18).

It is making 300 WHP at 4k rpms on 20 psi...on 93 octane pumpgas! This is my 8374 EFR .92 IWG on a stock-bore 79mm BC stroker FYI.

 

Just high numbers.jpg

Last dyno 20 psi cams set.jpg

Dyno Cam changes converted.JPG

Power is WHP, so it's about 750HP on engine right? Awesome spool.

This is on 93 octane, what difference can be on 98 octane ? Better spool or power ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...