r32 Barra swap R32 plan

[Kai.exe]

11 minutes ago, BK said:

195kg seems to be the long motor consensus from Ford mods. Make no mistake, they are definitely heavier than an RB26, and they are pretty weighty. How much, dunno. We pulled the old man's Barra and Tremec Tr6060 box out of his XR6 FG last year, the motors are fricken huge, but the engine bay in an FG is also massive. I'd hate to work on one in a skyline. The backward intake and exhaust is a big one for not doing it.

Fair enough and good point. But the exhaust and intake on the flip sides is also an issue with the JZ swaps into an R chassis, is that a problem for them also? And how to address the problem?

[Kai.exe]

7 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Well wait for your mate to come through with the info then if your not willing to take the time to actually go and physically do anything yourself.  If you were serious about building an r32 with front end weight in mind you would be looking at aluminium blocked 4 cyl or 6 cyl motors ( honda seem to be flavour of the youtubes atm). 
There is a lot of good points & information being given but you are obviously not willing to consider it. Having been involved in a lot projects with engine swaps there is many variables are that cannot be seen until you have an engine in the car and start getting on with it.
You are obviously wanting a cheap bolt in solution as you have seen people do it with other swaps that are very popular and been done for over 10 years with a lot of aftermarket support. Barra into r chassis is not one of them due to a lot of the issues mentioned above. From your earlier posts you want reliability but I've seen plenty of barra failures too even built motors from workshops who are "specialists".
No one here has used you as a punching bag- if the advice here has hurt your feelings, return to your safe space & log off the interwebs.

And one major thing to add... This thread is nothing like a warzone talking from boots on the ground experience.

Results came out, they weigh the engine crank, block, main caps and head separately and everything adding together it's just above 500lbs/227kg, it is not half bad given how big of a mass it looks like, it's basically the same weight as a RB30. 

If the question is WHAT TO LOOK INTO WHILE SWAPPING THE ENGINE, and the answers are all about trying to convince one to swap to other engines instead, then you make zero points, you're just wasting everybody's time, even though all of us are in quarantine and have a shit load of time. How do you feel when you ask for a Coke and the server asks you back "is Pepsi ok?"

None of the "Advice" has "hurt my feelings",  they're basically not valid enough to be an advice, as I said this over and over again, how would you feel if you ask people how to upgrade your car and all you get is "Nah just buy a new car"?  Annoyed no?

Assaulting me in a comment doesn't do you any good either, being passive aggressive doesn't make you a civilized human being.

[Kai.exe]

@Duncan @PranKHey admins, would you please either delete this entire thread or delete all the comments that you think are off topic?

Due to majority of the comments are written by people who are being very off topic and does not contribute to the topic what so ever on top of that they think being passive aggressive right from the beginning would help them achieve whatever it is they want to achieve, claiming that they're helping in a delusional way, this thread no longer serves it's purpose at least from a reasonable person's point of view.

[PranK]

Hi All,

Can we please keep talk in here civil? We all share a common interest, lets show each other some respect.

[BK]

This is the dude to talk to. It's a 33 but will answer all of your questions about what you want to know with realistically following through with a conversion.

https://m.facebook.com/Barra33-2083167931924629/

 

[robbo_rb180]

21 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

Just plug in Barra swap into the search function and see the fourth thread down, this has been done before.

 

17 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

cross member to sump clearance, steering shaft to exhaust, heat at brake master, will factory clutch master work, gearbox to tunnel clearance, fuel lines on the right side, radiator size, the extra 100kg over front Axel, how to unlock ecm, engine wiring, speed input, factory guages work, exhaust on wrong side, mod Castor brackets or rad support........ 2 mins and I have got that with out looking at an engine in the car. That is why I suggest to go buy an engine and sit it in there if you're not willing to do that then this idea will never happen.......

 

17 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

https://rbfactory.shop/products/r31-r32-skyline-barra-conversion-engine-brackets

 

 

16 hours ago, Kai.exe said:

my mate swapped a 1J into his S14 kouki with his dad
a Barra swap on an R chassis might be a bit tricky since it's only been done only a few times

But again I just needed to learn some detailed information about stuff like what axles to use, what driveshaft to use, if not compatible then what else is still good quality with a reasonable price, information about wiring harness, clearance, etc.. 

 

1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said:

All you're saying is you want information as to clearances, things to look out for, information people who have done swaps wish they had known before, etc. What you're actually getting is that information.

You came here wanting information, you've got it - you just don't like it. That doesn't necessarily make the information given incorrect.


I have a LS in my skyline. If it exploded and the money fell back into my pocket I would likely use that cash to buy a Mustang.

 

35 minutes ago, BK said:

195kg seems to be the long motor consensus from Ford mods. Make no mistake, they are definitely heavier than an RB26, and they are pretty weighty. How much, dunno. We pulled the old man's Barra and Tremec Tr6060 box out of his XR6 FG last year, the motors are fricken huge, but the engine bay in an FG is also massive. I'd hate to work on one in a skyline. The backward intake and exhaust is a big one for not doing it.

Here is all the points/information to pay attention too relating what info you need. You'll note I did give a very basic idea of what things to look for.
 
 1st Have a sit down with your mate and look over his s14 with 1jz -take your car, a tape measure and note book. see how they did exhaust, fuel lines, wiring, cooling.
2nd Find someone with a falcon and do the above again
3rd Google every search combination of barra into skyline- don't bother asking forums for all the answers as no one has them.
4th  use all of the above information to see what has to be done just it to fit the engine- If at this point you are still 100% and know what is required from YOUR research, crack on with the conversion.

I've seen a r33 & s15 drift cars with this conversion done. Both cars had issues with keeping the engine cool, trans tunnels were hacked up, both ran standard nissan diffs & axels.  
Engine conversions are not simple and very time consuming and not all the info is on the internet.
 

[Kai.exe]

10 minutes ago, BK said:

This is the dude to talk to. It's a 33 but will answer all of your questions about what you want to know with realistically following through with a conversion.

https://m.facebook.com/Barra33-2083167931924629/

 

Thank you very much sir ?

[Kai.exe]

22 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

 

 

 

 

 

Here is all the points/information to pay attention too relating what info you need. You'll note I did give a very basic idea of what things to look for.
 
 1st Have a sit down with your mate and look over his s14 with 1jz -take your car, a tape measure and note book. see how they did exhaust, fuel lines, wiring, cooling.
2nd Find someone with a falcon and do the above again
3rd Google every search combination of barra into skyline- don't bother asking forums for all the answers as no one has them.
4th  use all of the above information to see what has to be done just it to fit the engine- If at this point you are still 100% and know what is required from YOUR research, crack on with the conversion.

I've seen a r33 & s15 drift cars with this conversion done. Both cars had issues with keeping the engine cool, trans tunnels were hacked up, both ran standard nissan diffs & axels.  
Engine conversions are not simple and very time consuming and not all the info is on the internet.
 

At last, thank you for this answer, way better and way more valuable steps to take.  I will take notes and follow the steps.

Edited April 30, 2020 by Kai.exe

[PranK]

6 minutes ago, Kai.exe said:

The guy named Ben will be ignored from now on as he only enjoys talking shit. 

Really? Not only is this not keeping things civil but you're baiting for more arguments.

[Kai.exe]

2 minutes ago, PranK said:

Really? Not only is this not keeping things civil but you're baiting for more arguments.

Well my apologies, mans got a temper. just deleted,

Edited April 30, 2020 by Kai.exe

[GeeDog]

1 hour ago, Kai.exe said:

How do you feel when you ask for a Coke and the server asks you back "is Pepsi ok?"

At the risk of being called off topic, the correct answer to this question is "do you mind if I pay with fake money"

[WR33KD]

looks to have been done and the done again and then done again just to be safe but wait then it was done again for safe measure then just to double check it was done again.

 

They even sell mounts for the 32 for the Barra swap 

[Ben C34]

326kg with auto box.

[Kinkstaah]

On 4/30/2020 at 12:50 PM, Kai.exe said:

None of the "Advice" has "hurt my feelings",  they're basically not valid enough to be an advice, as I said this over and over again, how would you feel if you ask people how to upgrade your car and all you get is "Nah just buy a new car"?  Annoyed no?

If you ask for coke, and some recommends Pepsi as a far better option for your life enjoyment, and can back it up with facts, and maths, and other personal experiences and can demonstrate it is clearly better

Then no, being annoyed isn't a correct response actually, it'd be better to take this advice in good stead.

You may find that the people giving this advise have done the research behind doing said idea, and have gone a different path. They didn't just "not try hard enough" or "not have the idea", it is entirely possible they have thought about this, considered it, done the maths, done the research, then discarded the idea as 'not good for reason XYZ'

There's usually pretty good reasons whey people don't do what seems to be an obvious cool thing.

This forum really revolves around:

"What do you want to do with your car? Decide this, then work backwards"

A Barra R32 doesn't fit 99.9% of the "What do you want to do with your car" questions EXCEPT "I want to look cool by saying I have a Barra r32, I don't care if it actually isn't as good as many other options, i want to spend more time, effort, money, have more headaches just for the dopamine kick of saying I have a 4L Turbo"

If this is your justification, do it - It's rare around these parts to have a justification like that. If your justification is performance, or especially performance/dollar ratio/life happiness for most it's not the best plan, which is why you get the replies like this.

[admS15]

On 29/04/2020 at 7:43 PM, admS15 said:

LSA 

I would like to update my advice to LTA, this is what the cool kids are now doing.

[DaymoR32]

1 hour ago, admS15 said:

I would like to update my advice to LTA, this is what the cool kids are now doing.

And if you want some inspiration, heres a playlist of one being swapped into an Aston Martin

 

[MBS206]

I'm going to dig an old thread up, because I find some of the advice in here (And on the rest of the web) relating to Barra into Skylines, "interesting"...

 

If you can fabricate, and wire, it's not that expensive of an engine swap at all once the engine and box is bought. That being said, it's going to cost you more than doing the old slapper RB25/30 build (Which I've also personally done into my R33).

Lots of people say you HAVE to space the subframe down to fit the engine. You don't (In an R33). People on the net say you need an extra 10mm in the 32 GTST [Spacing subframe 26mm (R32) down instead of 16mm (R33)]. You can make a Barra fit without dropping the subframe, and keeping the bonnet factory, and without modifying the sump. However, this took me three goes of making engine mounts to do this, as clearance is tight engine to bonnet, and steering rack to sump.

You can't keep the sway bar, it needs to be modified no matter what.

Weight wise, I never weighed the 25/30 that was in mine versus the Barra in there now, BUT the Barra in mine has the front of the car sitting VERY high in comparison, and that's on the exact same springs. Don't know why, as from memory all the info I found ages ago when searching put both motors close enough together in weight, that it didn't matter.

Things missing from the front of mine at the moment: Radiator, coolant, oil, FMIC, Turbo. All up, about 80 - 100KG. I weigh 90KG, and me standing on the front chassis rails, and it doesn't bring the nose down as low as where it used to sit with the 25/30 in it.

The above are the main points I find "interesting", some extra info is also below if anyone else ever finds this thread and goes reading.
 

Wiring, there's a LOT of it to modify, if you can research, there's lots of info on doing it yourself. There is also options to spend $1k to $1.5k and get 99% of the wiring handed back to you all done, AND the PATS removed.

 

The exhaust will fit past the steering rack, there are options out there to get you more space as well. I can definitely fit a 3" pipe between motor, steering rack/column, and the firewall. 3.5" MIGHT be a squeeze, but that's BEFORE the options of what you can do with the rack to move things.

If running huge power, and a huge exhaust, you need to work out how to swap sides of the car once you're out of the car, that's the harder part. Keep your power levels modest, and exhaust size modest, and it fits across super easy.

Fuel lines are on the wrong side, you need to swap them over. Easy fix.

Power steering pump is actually on the correct side, fixing a Nissan boo boo.

There is bugger all room for radiator / fans in the factory spot, and pipes are in the wrong location (High and low points are diagonally opposite).

Clutch master should be changed, I made the Ford master work in with the Nissan pedal. It's an interesting fix, and works really well.

My gear shifter sits up a tiny bit further back than the factory shifter. Probably about 30mm going from memory (I'm not at the car to look/measure it, I'm going off memory!)

 

There is more and more and more to this, and there is a lot of work.

Overall, I'm really keen to get mine finished off, and am currently trying to get some items done so I can test fire mine, as that will really help me get the motivation to finish it off.

 

Now the biggest thing that I'll now come to, is the "Why did I choose a Barra swap?" And the answer to that was COST.

At the time I started, I had my R33 as a rolling shell, as the motor and box that was in it had come out many years ago. I didn't have much factory stuff to put back in and get it running (Nearly all my RB gear was gone).

At the time I started it, buying an RB25 and 5 speed box was going to be STUPIDLY expensive.

Now, for what I'm building (Again, for the hundredth time) the car to do, the RB would actually be a GREAT option. And if I had a running RB in mine at the time, there is not a hope in hell I'd be pulling that thing out to put a Barra in.

So far, my build has me at about $1000 (Excluding car purchase) and that includes replacing some front hubs.

By the time I'm done, it will probably owe me about $2,500 in total. I could do it even cheaper, but I'm opting for a few little things I want.
That being said, I have time, tools, and now my own space to do it in. If I had to bill pay by the hour at a workshop to do this, I'd be bankrupt.

In summary, if I had an R32, with an RB20 in it, and I was chasing more power, the option I'd go for is an RB25... 400+kw is a LOT of damn power, especially from a Barra that makes power in bulk torque!


Just for kicks so people know what this car has had engine wise since I've owned it:
 - Standard RB25DET with basic mods, (Boosted, Tune, 3 inch full exhaust, plazmaman front, 6 puck button clutch, light weight fly wheel)
 - 2x RB25/30 with mildly tickled heads, and TD07S turbo setup.
 - LS1 with 6 Speed manual (Conversion not completed, I had to stop spending money on cars for too many years, and hence why the LS1 engine and 6 speed gearbox came back out and was sold)
 - Barra Motor (Conversion underway, slowly progressing as time permits, and thank god its back at my house, as I'll have more time to do stuff on it).

[robbo_rb180]

3 hours ago, Anawilliam850 said:

The Barra engine produces a lot of torque, and it would be a good idea to use a stronger differential to handle the extra power. The Nismo 2-way LSD should be sufficient, but you may want to consider other options as well. Some options to consider are the Cusco RS 2-way LSD, the OS Giken Super Lock LSD, or the Wavetrac LSD.

Everyone I know breaks the gears not centres. All are running either welded or aftermarket centres.
There are 2 different teeth sets with r200 and the wider/deeper tooth is what is preferred.

[Kinkstaah]

Do they really break them in scenarios that aren't huge digs with drag tyres attached?

That said, a Barra in anything usuuuuuaaallly results in the above line being its use case.

[robbo_rb180]

20 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Do they really break them in scenarios that aren't huge digs with drag tyres attached?

That said, a Barra in anything usuuuuuaaallly results in the above line being its use case.

Its generally clutch kicking and launches with aggressive clutch setups. One in particular was a turbo LS drift car running 265 semi's