Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day ppl could I get pointers on a full rebuild of anRB@% GTST Series II engine for 500 to 1000 hp. I'm after horsepower and reliability together I dont want to be breaking somthing all the time lol. How much roughly could the rebuild cost aswell rough figures of what other ppl have spent and the ideas aswell would be helpfull. Im also south of brissy qld so any shop recommendations would be greatfull to.

For a start go to the Forced Induction section and look at the RB25 turbo upgrade thread. You will see what people have done to their cars to get more power. Start at the end to avoid a load of outdated gear.

And there is a huge difference both in power and in money between 500 and 1000hp so have a think about how much power you really want.

  • Like 1

Estimate at $40k to get everything going reliably 

im guessing u will be paying a workshop as u if you knew what u were doing u wouldn’t be asking such a vague question 

LOL, reliability for what use?

Dyno queen

Street car

Track hack

Sprints

You need lots of cubes, lots of strong parts, and some boost.

What transmission and drivetrain you using, that stuff can start eating itself at 400hp, let alone being reliable at 500-1000hp, for "some" reliability I would budget around 60-80k, easy, maybe more.

Your also going to need a "spare stash of cash" for when your "reliable setup" breaks.

And it will.

  • Like 2
On 5/28/2020 at 4:53 PM, Ben C34 said:

What can you do? Cmon man, this thread is ultra vague!

Well at the moment mate I'm rebuilding a LS3 engine out of a senator from ground up and my skyline is my next project I was just seeing what other people thoughts were hoping there was people on here to throw out ideas I might not have thought of

On 5/28/2020 at 5:26 PM, mlr said:

LOL, reliability for what use?

Dyno queen

Street car

Track hack

Sprints

You need lots of cubes, lots of strong parts, and some boost.

What transmission and drivetrain you using, that stuff can start eating itself at 400hp, let alone being reliable at 500-1000hp, for "some" reliability I would budget around 60-80k, easy, maybe more.

Your also going to need a "spare stash of cash" for when your "reliable setup" breaks.

And it will.

Cheers bro I'm setting up for street n track I been researching and I'm just going to aim for 500hp I'm going to run a 6 speed manual transmission and I can apparently get a 9 inch diff made 

23 minutes ago, MrSINNER said:

Cheers bro I'm setting up for street n track I been researching and I'm just going to aim for 500hp I'm going to run a 6 speed manual transmission and I can apparently get a 9 inch diff made 

Nothing wrong with the RB diff.

50 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Nothing wrong with the RB diff.

Really mate I haven't really had much to do with the RB parts as a whole I been into more V8's but I am really loving the RB's. I have seen the limited slip upgrade for them is that the better way to go?

33 minutes ago, MrSINNER said:

Really mate I haven't really had much to do with the RB parts as a whole I been into more V8's but I am really loving the RB's. I have seen the limited slip upgrade for them is that the better way to go?

Kaaz 2-way into the centre and off you go :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
    • Yeah, I guess its pretty easy to get to if this doesn't work. Just wait till next oil change and pull it out. I am going to have to do the oil pan gasket soon and thought I'd just replace it while I was there.  Thanks
    • All that matters is you're safe and you were able to type that post. Hopefully heaps of parts you can recover for the next shell.  
×
×
  • Create New...