Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 6/17/2022 at 7:18 PM, LeoM said:

Looks clean but for that price you can prb get a gt25 throw an rb26 and fabricate the chassis for awd lol

No you couldn’t with todays stupid skyline market. People want 30k for half a broken car full of rust 

I think you grossly underestimate  how much people charge for good fab work

  • Like 2
On 19/6/2022 at 5:29 PM, niZmO_Man said:

straight 6 turbo, rear wheel drive, manual.

win win?

You’d thing so, then you remember it’ll break down more often then your almost 30yr old skyline 

  • Haha 3
On 20/06/2022 at 3:54 PM, r32-25t said:

You’d thing so, then you remember it’ll break down more often then your almost 30yr old skyline 

Such a hater!

Yet people are now slapping BMW parts to their Nissans.

  • Like 1
On 6/19/2022 at 10:54 PM, r32-25t said:

You’d thing so, then you remember it’ll break down more often then your almost 30yr old skyline 

F80s are pretty reliable in stock form, they only start breaking weird parts once you start pushing the power past 500 crank hp.

Exactly. To me relianble doesn't mean "able to last through warranty", it means usable for a reasonable period after that too.

We are very spoiled by the (heavily loss making) nissan engineers from the 90s

On 6/22/2022 at 5:26 AM, joshuaho96 said:

F80s are pretty reliable in stock form, they only start breaking weird parts once you start pushing the power past 500 crank hp.

I wonder how reliable a RB25, RB26 or SR20 is in stock form. I would wager it might last centuries.

On 6/21/2022 at 8:09 PM, Kinkstaah said:

I wonder how reliable a RB25, RB26 or SR20 is in stock form. I would wager it might last centuries.

As far as I could tell at 280,000 km the RB26 I got was fine except for all the leaks. To BMW's credit though an F80 M3 will survive a track day on modern track rubber without breathing a quart per lap through the PCV and possibly ventilating the block, an RB probably won't in stock form.

On 6/22/2022 at 3:52 PM, joshuaho96 said:

As far as I could tell at 280,000 km the RB26 I got was fine except for all the leaks. To BMW's credit though an F80 M3 will survive a track day on modern track rubber without breathing a quart per lap through the PCV and possibly ventilating the block, an RB probably won't in stock form.

Just did a round of time attack at Lakeside, unopened RB25 making about 350KW on E85, at the end of the day I cracked the drain on the catch can and not a drop came out :)

  • 6 months later...

Currently done this project converted to rb25det, in gt four. Really easy.

now in the process of converting the other gt4 into rb26 what s headache 😂

 

actually stuck on wiring as it is from 260rs stagea the loom and ecu

 

Both were r34 2.5 na manual coupe

I’m contemplating a similar conversion, in my build of the GTR I have been left with an enormous array of spare parts, was initially just going to sell everything once the car is finished but am now considering getting my hands on an R32 GTS-4 and having a go putting it together with my son, I’ve seen a couple of what looks to be decent rollers sell for the 15k mark. 
My spares include, just off the top of my head, complete set of rebuilt R33 GTR brembo brakes, BM50 master cylinder, Nismo braided lines, complete set of bilstin coil overs, white line sway bars, R34gtr wheels, motec M130 ecu, RB26 factory engine loom, complete fuel system with twin 460 pumps, surge tank etc. 6 boost manifold, 2 x complete cold sides, (1 x single throttle, 1 x ITB factory setup). Complete rear subframe, with diff, shafts etc. 2 x GTR 5 speed boxes, 2 x transfer cases, 2 x tailshafts, 3 x front prop shafts, OS twin plate clutch, front hubs, all the factory arms, gearbox crossmember. 
About 90% of the interior, spare GTR front seats, dash, 2 x clusters, nice Defi gauges, oil cooler, spare GTR bonnet and grill, headlights, blinkers, tail lights. Motor wise, I got a set of forged pistons, Nitto oil pump and complete RB26 sump with factory diff.

And there’s a heap more crap (no doubt) that I can’t remember buying. 
but enough to put together a nice street car.. in my head anyway. Or just save myself the Headache and sell everything! (including the GTR) Lol 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi GTSBoy, Excuse my ignorance but what does a "Bad" Knee point mean ? 
    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
×
×
  • Create New...