Jump to content
SAU Community

Most Suitable r34 model for a GT-R Conversion

LeoM
 Share

Recommended Posts

UWISSH! Grand Master

UWISSH!

Posted
Posted
On 6/17/2022 at 7:18 PM, LeoM said:

Looks clean but for that price you can prb get a gt25 throw an rb26 and fabricate the chassis for awd lol

No you couldn’t with todays stupid skyline market. People want 30k for half a broken car full of rust 

I think you grossly underestimate  how much people charge for good fab work

  • Like 2
r32-25t Grand Master

r32-25t

Posted
Posted
On 19/6/2022 at 5:29 PM, niZmO_Man said:

straight 6 turbo, rear wheel drive, manual.

win win?

You’d thing so, then you remember it’ll break down more often then your almost 30yr old skyline 

  • Haha 3
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted
On 20/06/2022 at 3:54 PM, r32-25t said:

You’d thing so, then you remember it’ll break down more often then your almost 30yr old skyline 

Such a hater!

Yet people are now slapping BMW parts to their Nissans.

  • Like 1
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 6/19/2022 at 10:54 PM, r32-25t said:

You’d thing so, then you remember it’ll break down more often then your almost 30yr old skyline 

F80s are pretty reliable in stock form, they only start breaking weird parts once you start pushing the power past 500 crank hp.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Exactly. To me relianble doesn't mean "able to last through warranty", it means usable for a reasonable period after that too.

We are very spoiled by the (heavily loss making) nissan engineers from the 90s

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted
On 6/22/2022 at 5:26 AM, joshuaho96 said:

F80s are pretty reliable in stock form, they only start breaking weird parts once you start pushing the power past 500 crank hp.

I wonder how reliable a RB25, RB26 or SR20 is in stock form. I would wager it might last centuries.

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 6/21/2022 at 8:09 PM, Kinkstaah said:

I wonder how reliable a RB25, RB26 or SR20 is in stock form. I would wager it might last centuries.

As far as I could tell at 280,000 km the RB26 I got was fine except for all the leaks. To BMW's credit though an F80 M3 will survive a track day on modern track rubber without breathing a quart per lap through the PCV and possibly ventilating the block, an RB probably won't in stock form.

Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

Posted
Posted
On 6/22/2022 at 3:52 PM, joshuaho96 said:

As far as I could tell at 280,000 km the RB26 I got was fine except for all the leaks. To BMW's credit though an F80 M3 will survive a track day on modern track rubber without breathing a quart per lap through the PCV and possibly ventilating the block, an RB probably won't in stock form.

Just did a round of time attack at Lakeside, unopened RB25 making about 350KW on E85, at the end of the day I cracked the drain on the catch can and not a drop came out :)

  • 6 months later...
Mussy Contributor

Mussy

Posted
Posted

Currently done this project converted to rb25det, in gt four. Really easy.

now in the process of converting the other gt4 into rb26 what s headache 😂

 

actually stuck on wiring as it is from 260rs stagea the loom and ecu

 

Both were r34 2.5 na manual coupe

Old man 32 GTR Proficient

Old man 32 GTR

Posted
Posted

I’m contemplating a similar conversion, in my build of the GTR I have been left with an enormous array of spare parts, was initially just going to sell everything once the car is finished but am now considering getting my hands on an R32 GTS-4 and having a go putting it together with my son, I’ve seen a couple of what looks to be decent rollers sell for the 15k mark. 
My spares include, just off the top of my head, complete set of rebuilt R33 GTR brembo brakes, BM50 master cylinder, Nismo braided lines, complete set of bilstin coil overs, white line sway bars, R34gtr wheels, motec M130 ecu, RB26 factory engine loom, complete fuel system with twin 460 pumps, surge tank etc. 6 boost manifold, 2 x complete cold sides, (1 x single throttle, 1 x ITB factory setup). Complete rear subframe, with diff, shafts etc. 2 x GTR 5 speed boxes, 2 x transfer cases, 2 x tailshafts, 3 x front prop shafts, OS twin plate clutch, front hubs, all the factory arms, gearbox crossmember. 
About 90% of the interior, spare GTR front seats, dash, 2 x clusters, nice Defi gauges, oil cooler, spare GTR bonnet and grill, headlights, blinkers, tail lights. Motor wise, I got a set of forged pistons, Nitto oil pump and complete RB26 sump with factory diff.

And there’s a heap more crap (no doubt) that I can’t remember buying. 
but enough to put together a nice street car.. in my head anyway. Or just save myself the Headache and sell everything! (including the GTR) Lol 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Roy
      Ben's R32 Gtst Build

      By Roy · Posted

      Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • GTSBoy
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • MBS206
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Shizu
      Returning after a long time!

      By Shizu · Posted

      Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • dbm7
      Looking for a part number for this part here

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...