Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

and the prices on JDM and even GT-R are dropping back to where they were?

I bought a R32 GT-R with new engine and turbos for $10k for 3 months ago or something. A car that i bought now because i got the opportunity from a friend and i thought if i dont buy this one, i will never ever afford a GT-R probably. 

 

Now im sitting here like a f**king dick head, watching these youtbers talking about jdm market are dropping again and how people think they are overpriced.

I mean old muscle cars etc are daaamn alot more expensive. I dont understand why supra, GTR ans sklvias would drop lile this.

Well, i did a f**king mistake

On 8/3/2022 at 2:08 PM, timmy94 said:

and the prices on JDM and even GT-R are dropping back to where they were?

I bought a R32 GT-R with new engine and turbos for $10k for 3 months ago or something. A car that i bought now because i got the opportunity from a friend and i thought if i dont buy this one, i will never ever afford a GT-R probably. 

 

Now im sitting here like a f**king dick head, watching these youtbers talking about jdm market are dropping again and how people think they are overpriced.

I mean old muscle cars etc are daaamn alot more expensive. I dont understand why supra, GTR ans sklvias would drop lile this.

Well, i did a f**king mistake

Show me these clean R32 GTRs that are dropping in price back to 30k USD even. 50k+ is the norm for these cars now. Used to be you could get a collector-grade example for 70k even with inflated dealer pricing. Now it's more like 140k. The stuff on BaT that sells for 20-30k are major projects that will easily require 80k+ in work with the skyrocketing cost of parts and labor. If you ask Hagerty which actually collects information on how much people paid for their cars at auction and through private sales due to their agreed value policies the average price the price of R32 GTRs has jumped by an eye-popping 40% year over year. Youtubers are idiots for the most part and don't have their finger on the pulse of the market like the insurance companies and dealers do. Prices at auction have dropped, but this is because people are buying worse condition cars. You can see just from the Hagerty valuation guide alone that there is nearly a 4x jump between the worst condition they'll assign a value to and the best condition. The problem with crappy cars is that because parts are so expensive and getting discontinued it's becoming much, much harder to refurbish them correctly.

 

image.thumb.png.cd8fe5529ac6896e8e4f33352cd3f337.png

 

Is it possible for prices to drop like a rock in the near future? Maybe. But when you have youtubers destroying these cars for clout I have strong doubts that the supply of these cars will remain high enough to allow a drop in demand to drag prices down back to what they were even 2 years ago.

 

If you paid 10k for a gtr I wouldn’t be complaining, the days of 10k GTRs are long gone and they were always going to drop a bit and then settle, the muscle cars did the same thing in the late 90s to early 2000s

On 8/3/2022 at 3:35 PM, r32-25t said:

If you paid 10k for a gtr I wouldn’t be complaining, the days of 10k GTRs are long gone and they were always going to drop a bit and then settle, the muscle cars did the same thing in the late 90s to early 2000s

I still have no idea where the market will be going. R34s haven't even become legal to import into the US yet and thus far as every generation became legal to import into the US they had a significant bump in price. At the same time though people have known this was coming and I know a ton of people that bought an R34 GTR years ago and have had it stored overseas pending US import. I do expect things to settle down as everything shakes out circa 2027-2030 timeframe. Just in time for the first ICE bans to start. 

This happened back in 2007-2008 with aussie muscle cars. I've been saying for last 2-3 years it will drop, waiting for a heap to flood the market as a lot of people borrowed/financed cars and need to shift them to clear debt for the impending financial apocalypse  😂🤣

If you paid $10K (USd or Aud) it is super cheap like 2008 prices. Be happy that you got one for that price and enjoy it.


 

  • Like 1
On 8/4/2022 at 12:34 AM, joshuaho96 said:

Show me these clean R32 GTRs that are dropping in price back to 30k USD even. 50k+ is the norm for these cars now. Used to be you could get a collector-grade example for 70k even with inflated dealer pricing. Now it's more like 140k. The stuff on BaT that sells for 20-30k are major projects that will easily require 80k+ in work with the skyrocketing cost of parts and labor. If you ask Hagerty which actually collects information on how much people paid for their cars at auction and through private sales due to their agreed value policies the average price the price of R32 GTRs has jumped by an eye-popping 40% year over year. Youtubers are idiots for the most part and don't have their finger on the pulse of the market like the insurance companies and dealers do. Prices at auction have dropped, but this is because people are buying worse condition cars. You can see just from the Hagerty valuation guide alone that there is nearly a 4x jump between the worst condition they'll assign a value to and the best condition. The problem with crappy cars is that because parts are so expensive and getting discontinued it's becoming much, much harder to refurbish them correctly.

 

image.thumb.png.cd8fe5529ac6896e8e4f33352cd3f337.png

 

Is it possible for prices to drop like a rock in the near future? Maybe. But when you have youtubers destroying these cars for clout I have strong doubts that the supply of these cars will remain high enough to allow a drop in demand to drag prices down back to what they were even 2 years ago.

 

 

On 8/4/2022 at 3:12 AM, PranK said:

Youtubers talk shit. They get paid for your clicks.

 

Well, it seems like the auction dealers in japan did not sell any cars at all, at the auctions.. cause people suddenly dont pay for them. So they have a bunch of cars now they cant get rid off. 

 

On 8/4/2022 at 12:52 AM, robbo_rb180 said:

This happened back in 2007-2008 with aussie muscle cars. I've been saying for last 2-3 years it will drop, waiting for a heap to flood the market as a lot of people borrowed/financed cars and need to shift them to clear debt for the impending financial apocalypse  😂🤣

If you paid $10K (USd or Aud) it is super cheap like 2008 prices. Be happy that you got one for that price and enjoy it.


 

 

On 8/4/2022 at 1:12 AM, Ben C34 said:

Has to be missing a zero.

 

On 8/4/2022 at 12:44 AM, The Bogan said:

I find it hard to believe it was purchased for $10k, I assume he missed a zero or something

 

On 8/4/2022 at 12:35 AM, r32-25t said:

If you paid 10k for a gtr I wouldn’t be complaining, the days of 10k GTRs are long gone and they were always going to drop a bit and then settle, the muscle cars did the same thing in the late 90s to early 2000s

I paid 10k for it. It been sitting in my friends garage since a few years back. Actually right before the price increase in 2018?

I helped him to fix the engine and so, but he never drove it. So i bought it of him for 10k where the engine is new built, turbos are new, injectors been serviced. Not perfect body condition has some rust, but was planning to fix that anyway.

 

 

On 8/4/2022 at 12:28 PM, timmy94 said:

I paid 10k for it. It been sitting in my friends garage since a few years back. Actually right before the price increase in 2018?

I'm sitting here, trying to work out how the living f**k you can parley a ~$10k purchase of a GTR ~5 years ago into

On 8/4/2022 at 5:08 AM, timmy94 said:

Now im sitting here like a f**king dick head, watching these youtbers talking about jdm market are dropping again and how people think they are overpriced.

It just beggars belief. You won the f**king lottery and you're complaining about it?

  • Like 5

I'm sorry if this is harsh but if you bought a GTR for $10K 5 years ago and you're complaining then you're an absolute twatt!

Unless it's a rusty bucket of shit it's worth $50K minimum all day.

However if you bought it for $90K 5 years ago and it's now worth $50K then you might actually have something to bitch and moan about. But you didn't and it's not so smile and move on.

  • Like 1
On 8/3/2022 at 9:21 PM, timmy94 said:

 

Well, it seems like the auction dealers in japan did not sell any cars at all, at the auctions.. cause people suddenly dont pay for them. So they have a bunch of cars now they cant get rid off. 

 

Japanese auctions tend to be a whole lot of garbage these days. I don't know why you think that matters. It was bad 4-5 years ago and has only gotten worse as these cars get older, the grading gets more lenient, and the bottom of the barrel is getting scraped harder and harder. There's a bit of market softness as everyone gets nervous about a recession in the US but that's a welcome respite given the past 2-3 years that has been absolutely insane.

  • Like 1

Yeah I'm having a hard time understanding this topic at all.

For the most part, irrespective of the car, be it JDM or not, $10k is not a huge amount of money. Especially in our car market, I was looking at manual 350Z's last night on Carsales and found none for under 18k. 

I'm not pouring out any sympathy for a 10k GTR. Soz. 

  • Like 6

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...