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Murray_Calavera

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Everything posted by Murray_Calavera

  1. Murray_Calavera
    Without telling us what your looking for no one can really make a recommendation. How about starting with how much power you want to make and what you'll be using the car for? Street/circuit/drift/drag/etc... Also if your going e85 you'll run out of injectors with only 750cc.
  2. Murray_Calavera
    If I had to do it all over again I'd K swap a NA mx5 and throw on a turbo.
  3. Murray_Calavera
    Post up the boost control table. I couldn't watch the video but it sounds like you're asking the boost controller to cycle around the idle areas of the map. Simply pull the duty cycle out of those areas of the map, it's not like your making boost at idle anyway lol.
  4. Murray_Calavera
    I'm surprised no one has mentioned this yet. The platinum pro has terrible 'knock detection' it's closer to 'random noise detection'. I'm not saying the ecu is rubbish, it just that it can't do proper knock detection. The platinum pro is a very old ecu by todays standards. If you want better knock detection, get a haltech elite ECU or better yet, by a plex knock monitor.
  5. Murray_Calavera
    So there is no issue fitting a bigger turbo and being road legal, but it's not ok to remove a flange from your dump/front pipe? Where abouts are you located anyway?
  6. Murray_Calavera
    What's the issue with it though? The JJR dump doesn't stop you from running a cat.
  7. Murray_Calavera
    I don't mean the tune wont be good if you pay someone to do it, I just mean there will be things that won't be done because it's not cost effective. A good example is with the flex tune, say the car currently has a tank of e40 in it, how much additional timing do you dial in to make use of that? I imagine most tuners would be of the opinion that as long as it's safe, thats fine. They know you'll fill up on e85 when you get a chance so as long as you've got a good 98 tune and a good e85 tune, the in-between doesn't matter as you won't be spending much time there anyways. But if you enjoy the tuning process and are keen to put in the time, you can fine tune all the in-between areas and make some extra power.
  8. Murray_Calavera
    We all start somewhere, if you are keen to tune it yourself I'd say go for it for sure. There are so many resources out there now and plenty of us here can help you as well. At the end of the day dyno time is expensive so unless you want to pay a small fortune, you'll have to compromise somewhere. If you tune it yourself you can take your time and set everything up as perfectly as you'd like.
  9. Murray_Calavera
    I wish it was that easy, they have oil surge issues too
  10. Murray_Calavera
    Do you have logs of the sessions where the engine protection kicked in?
  11. Murray_Calavera
    I still haven't gotten around to sorting this yet, but I will soon. I didn't think I'd have any speed bumps other then the charge light =/ When I get around to doing this job, I'll pull the dash out, take the car for a drive and see what else breaks. I'll post up the fuel level vs voltage table that I'll build as well when its done.
  12. Murray_Calavera
    Awesome, thanks mate Great teamwork in this thread!
  13. Murray_Calavera
    I'm using a resistor, I'll link to the instructions below - https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0059/8332/files/Alternator_Excitor_LED_Module.pdf?2740344812066901986 I guess I'll just wire the "Blue - To Alternator Switch" to the charge light and see how I go.
  14. Murray_Calavera
    Nice If you get a chance while your installing it, do you mind doing a little how-to on how to wire the battery light resistor? I don't know why I can't get my head around how to wire in the resistor where the battery light was.
  15. Murray_Calavera
    Safe to assume he is talking about the transmission oil and filter. I don't know how hard to access your transmission filter is though, some of the Subaru boxes need to be stripped to be replaced =/
  16. Murray_Calavera
    Try not to be intimidated working on the car, you said changing plugs is a big job - but it is quite simple really. Take your time, take photos as you go, if your still worried, bag bolts and components and label the bags (then reassemble in reverse order). A few simple things to try, you can use a mechanical fuel pressure gauge to see if your pump is supplying enough fuel pressure to the rail. Put the pressure gauge somewhere between the rail and fuel filter. You can use a spark plug in-line checker to see if your getting spark. Both tools are cheap and easy to use. If your unsure, you can youtube and see how to use them.
  17. Murray_Calavera
    I would do it for sure, for the reasons above plus there is power to be had, turn the boost up to 10 psi and dial in some timing, it's a very noticeable bump in power.
  18. Murray_Calavera
    I hope so. I haven't trial fitted it yet. I still haven't setup the ECU to receive the fuel level signal yet as my in tank fuel level float thing has fallen off again on my last track day. Can't wait to dig around in the fuel tank again and put it back in it's slot.
  19. Murray_Calavera
    Well here we go again. I sent the wrong dash back, new dash arrived today.... With the wrong LED light. They sent a blinker indicator instead of a battery light. And unless I'm completely retarded, I can't see how it would be secured as the nut is a long way from reaching any threads.
  20. Murray_Calavera
    Not that I'm aware of, this is the battery voltage. Had a look at the timing, it's all over the place too =/
  21. Murray_Calavera
    Hi All, Has anyone seen a wideband sensor fail like this? The short version is, the reading is all over the place. I tried to get a log to show it the best I could. I'm doing my best to hold the throttle and RPM as steady as I can. The wideband sensor is a Haltech WB1 CAN controller and the ECU is a Pro plug in. The other fun one is, as soon as I put e85 in the car, my fuel pressure sensor started reading lower. My base pressure is 47psi, but the ECU is seeing 34psi. It still rises as you'd expect with boost, but it reads 13psi lower then expected. I've tested it with a mechanical gauge and it's a perfect 47psi. If it is a faulty wideband sensor, I thought having a CAN based controller was meant to communicate with the ECU and give me a fault code if something went wrong.
  22. Murray_Calavera
    The other thing to keep in mind is, how something sounds on youtube is not necessarily how something sounds in real life. Also, what you are listening to said youtube on will have an effect on it as well... If you can't listen to it in person, I wouldn't put much value on a youtube clip.
  23. Murray_Calavera
    I've been looking for a rust free R33 for a while now, I'm starting to think rust is factory fitted
  24. Murray_Calavera
    Just so we are on the same page, you are going to pull out the fuel pump yourself but you are not prepared to join 2 wires?
  25. Murray_Calavera
    My cluster was $407 =/ Does anyone know if the 3dracingsolutions stuff is any better?
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