GTSBoy

Nek minit - LS pulled out, RB2530 transplant.

Yeah, 12 point works best because the "splines" are not as straight sided as 6 point in-hex stuff.

The fact that it looks like the bearing (that coppery coloured ring around the shaft) would have to slide down from above to get on there suggests that it might be assembled by either sliding that bearing retainer (the dark coloured housing around the bearing) down and then riveting it on (those 2 swaged/staked rivets on the wings of the dark housing), or the whole end cap (The zinc plated open sided pressing, plus the dark bearing cap) are slid down and then rotated (bayonet fashion) under those rusty looking hooks from the main body of the motor.....or if it can't rotate to become captive by those hooks, then maybe those hooks are pressed down from the vertical after it is in place. If you cannot get it apart, doesn't matter. Just use the reach tube on the silicone lube can to poke the spray in underneath it and soak it into the bearing from the other side. Do the same/best you can at the other end and give it a whirl. Also, looking at the second of those photos I can clearly the see one of the brushes and it looks like it still has reasonable length on it and shouldn't give trouble. But have a good look at the commutator ring and where the brush is touching it and make sure that there's not some funky wear pattern on the brush causing poor contact. I think the other brush should be equally visible from a slightly different angle.

I think here, certainly <<$100k. Stillen no cult figure here, Z32 has general reputation for fire and electrical death. In the US though, Stillen is a minor deity and people are f**k-muppets for "numbers-matching one-of-30-in-that-colour-and-trim-combination" style bullshit.

To be fair - at that point most would and should go mechanical pump.

This being an Australian forum, we'd call it the inner guard liner. The yanks would call it the fender liner. Both the blue bit and the red bit would be described that way, with "main" or "upper" probably used to distinguish the blue from the "front" or "lower" red bit.

This ^

Ah, sorry Ben. Caps on DC motors are not start capacitors. They are for noise suppression and flyback protection. Only AC motors need/use caps for starting. On this motor, I would suggest investigating the state of the bearings. Spray some silicone lube in and see if it comes good (until it dries back out).

Yeah....but..... you have to account for the different (and obviously sometimes wrong) way that people use the terms "in" and "out" to describe clutch engagement and disengagement. If you read As being the clutch pedal up/out (instead of Butters' "in"), then it makes sense. And the use of "out" in the 2nd paragraph interpreted as "disengaged" would then also make sense. It's all just a matter of whether you think that "pedal in" means "pedal pushed in" which means "clutch disengaged", or if you think "pedal in" means "pedal up" which then makes the "in" mean "engaged". Either of which can be argued for, but only one of them is going to be "obvious" to each person.

Dude, you're the one sitting there listening to it. Follow your ear.

Yup. Assembly error in the clutch/fork/thrust would be number one suspect. That's assuming that you've bled the clutch properly. There is no internet diagnosis for saying that the clutch is properly bled but not having properly bled it. Have you used a power bleeder?

No. That is on the gearbox itself and has nothing to do with the clutch. If there are no bubbles coming out of the slave cylinder bleed point while you bleed it, then the clutch is probably properly bled. In that case, your symptoms could suggest that there is a problem in the clutch itself. it, broken fork, collapsed thrust bearing, collapsed diaphragm, etc.

You'd need the sample, and the other 99 samples, because the guy on Alibaba is probably going to try to reverse engineer the part from photos and then stamp them out of pie tins. Or find a part off a Mitsubishi that looks similar.

Yes, I would suggest that the R34 FUCA from GKTech would fit. Looks to be the same. This is a truly hardcore upgrade though. Spherical joints.

That's somewhat of a mixed message or confabulation of two different things. Point 1. Yes, it is generally a bad idea to tap anything into the FPR connection because when it goes wrong the lean condition is very destructive. No, it doesn't go wrong often, but when it does, it is usually because the ignorance of the failure mode is combined with sufficient general ignorance that the failure becomes more likely through ineptitude. Thus, it is generally easier to simply say "don't do it" than try to have a nuanced discussion. Point 2. The Neo's boost sensor "failure mode" should you tap into its connection and have that connection fail is not severe at all. But this is where the confabulation occurs, because you made it sound like tapping into the FPR on a Neo was not as bad. There wasn't any need to bring the Neo's boost sensor up as it was lacking in relevance, even with its previous mention in this thread. /pedant mode.

See this thread and my posted images. You have several choices, including the connection for the stock ECU's boost sensor, the BOV, the dash gauge.

The R34 does not have a MAP sensor. It does have a sensor (where all previous RBs had none), and it is a MAP sensor, but it is not used by the factory ECU for MAP. It is called the "boost sensor" and it is only really used for effecting what amounts to a boost cut. There is no way that Haltech would have attempted to use it instead of their ECU's on board MAP.

The usual routine is to press them out. Roughnuts will butcher the crush tube out then use a reciprosaw to destroy the outer bush sleeve (and cut halfway through the arm!).

I just realised that I made a small error of message above. When I said "adjustable front radius/traction arms" I was actually referring to the ones on the rear suspension. I said "front" because I meant they're at the front of the collection of arms on the rear of the car, only got halfway through the thought before full stopping. The message above is only relevant to the rear suspension, because the front radius rods don't really have that much (if any) effect on bump steer.

As an extension of that thought, if you do not also have adjustable front radius/traction arms, and if you have not had them properly** set up at the same time as any adjustments to the uppers (when camber is being set) then you will likely have an excessive amount of bump steer and the rear end will actually be worse off. **I built a bump steer measuring setup with a laser, mirror, etc and spent.....a whole day, and most of another day, getting both sides of my car to minimum bump steer. (Was a slow effort because I was designing/building the rig as I went, to start with). Then I had the rear camber adjusted a little at the next proper wheel alignment and had to set the bump steer rig up again to dial out the increased bump steer that it caused. Car's rear end behaviour was substantially nicer afterwards. To get that done by a specialist would be.....near impossible in most places. Almost no chassis/wheel align shops would be willing to put up with the f**king around. And the fee would be horrendous. Racers and shops that cater pretty much only to racers would probably be set up to do it and do it reasonably efficiently, but it would still cost many hundreds of $$. My time should be worth even more than that, but fuddling about with the car is also therapy, so meh.

On an R33 RB25, I think they actually are your heater lines. The hoses go from there, behind the head/block along the firewall, to the heater ports on the other side of the firewall.

Yeah, there's every chance that it's an unnecessary restriction.

There's your problem. The stocker is not a reg, it is a pulsation dampener.

Given Ben's input above, it would seem that the crush tube length would be the same between R33 and R34 GTRs. Given the crush tube is the same length, then the length of the outer is v.likely the same also. And so the only unknown would be the ID of the outer tube. This leaves a better than 50/50 chance that the R33 bush would go into the R34 radius rod.

It's not how you drive your car bro'. It's how you stand by it while it's parked at the meet!