GTSBoy

The AC signal from the gearbox sender goes up to the cluster on one of two wires (I don't know which, looks like it will be 15 or 16). The cluster VSS does its interpretation and puts out the speed signal to the ECU on another wire (the opposite of whichever of 15 or 16 is the incoming) and it looks like the speedo gauge hangs off of pin 17, although I'm not sure why it has to go via a plug if it is all internal to the cluster. The incoming signal will go positive and negative wrt body earth (ie, pin 22) on that wire (15 or 16, whichever is incoming). The VSS output is 0-5V square wave, on a single wire, wrt body/ECU earth. That could be what they are describing on the above drawing as 2P / VSS. The rest of the wiring diagram is required to see what wires is connected to what pin. That will answer the question definitively.

They're both the signal. It's AC. Sawtooth. +/-1V or thereabouts.

Actually, not so much. Meters can't pump enough current to demonstrate anything beyond mere "continuity". Even using them to measure ohms doesn't tell you what happens when you try to put actual (serious) current through the contacts. A switch can measure up fine and collapse when presented with real load, because it gets hot or the carbon/varnish moves, etc etc. Those binnacle switches have nice wide contacts but there's really only one narrow path that the sliders run on, and the contacts pivot on fixed brass parts that give a really small contact area. There's plenty of ways for them to give trouble. Dismantling and cleaning with a little CO spray and a wipe with a clean cloth is simple enough and had brought back mine from the brink about 10 times over the last 20 years.

No. Just in case you're talking about a stock ECU. No. You cannot take the AC signal from the gearbox's speed sensor and send it straight to the ECU. The stock ECU expects a square wave PWM signal.

Whilst I don't disagree with a thing you said..... he did say that 3 out of 4 headlights are working. That would suggest that the main switch on the binnacle is working and probably the dipper also. Because there is no left-right switching IIRC. But, I haven't got the wiring diagram close by and couldn't be arsed looking if I did! More to the point, I regularly disassemble the main binnacle switch to clean the contacts whenever my headlights start playing silly buggers**. (That's the price of adding relays into the circuit. The relays don't pull enough current to properly whet clean the main contact when switching.) So, I know it is very possible to dismantle and visually inspect that switch and see that it should be working. Apart from carbon build up or melting, there's very little that could go wrong in it. Anyway, with 3 out of 4 headlights working, it's much more likely to be a dud wire/loom connector somewhere out in the field, rather than in the control room.

Good luck. I reckon there would be somewhere between zero and none anywhere outside of Japan. Yahoo auctions, or a service like Jesse Streeter or Import Monster will likely be the only way to find any.

Doesn't it look like the boot goes to a penetration through the side/pillar that is below floor level? Maybe poke a bit of coathanger through it from the door end of it and listen for scratching noises.

Get the wiring diagram out. Follow from the power source to destination and work out where it is stopping.

Actually, it's not that at all. The turbo business is bankrupt. The turbo business was spun off by itself, but Honeywell somehow managed to put all those Bendix asbestos liabilities onto Garrett on its way out the door. https://www.autonews.com/suppliers/garrett-motion-suing-honeywell-over-ongoing-asbestos-liabilities Garrett is actually in some peril as a result. They launched the lawsuit, have since had to file for Ch 11, and will either disappear or go through period of restructuring/pain, same as any company that goes through Ch 11. The bankruptcy is at least partially caused by COVID-19 because turbo sales are down by something huge, like 40%. Some of that is aftermarket, but I imagine that OEM consumption went right down. For a company that was struggling for other reasons, loss of a significant fraction of turnover can be a death knell.

An unfortunate feature of the ADR rules stating that you cannot have a permanently illuminated light (ie, one of the taillamps) mounted further outboard than the indicator. Hence, all R32s grey imported in Oz had to have the wire to the outer taillight cut and insulated on compliance. But for the ADM GTRs, they came up with that more aethetically pleasing design and had the side benefit of banishing the reversing lights from the numberplate area up to the lighting clusters.

I dunno.

Yes, but Facebook is evil ball-sniffing bullshit.

Under that clamp/bracket the hose is swaged/crimped onto the fitting. Take the bracket off, spray it all with degreaser and rub it clean. Then drive it around for a bit and have a good close look for where the wet starts. If it is bleeding out of the crimp, it's pretty will f**ked. You can't fix them. It might have a crack in the hard pipe. This can be welded. Not in-situ though.

I think he might have been asking the question the other way around. ie, will the stereo pull more current on the ACC wire than it is good for? And of course, the answer there is also no.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OEM-R32-Skyline-GTR-emblem-kit-Front-S-Side-GT-Rear-Nissan-badge-package/133384488968?hash=item1f0e55c808:g:HbUAAOSwuxZekaiJ https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-Nissan-R32-Skyline-GTR-GT-Side-Fender-Emblem-Badge-RARE-63896-05U00/143363273027?epid=1826229375&hash=item21611df143:g:7jQAAOSwxX9dYRu1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/JDM-OEM-Genuine-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-GTR-GT-R-Fender-GT-Emblem-Badge-IN-STOCK/264654023043?epid=1826229375&hash=item3d9e9be983:g:S34AAOSwxD1eXU5t

f**k it off and get a new one.

Solid bush can't/won't break. You're just experiencing all the banging and crashing of mechanical shit that happens behind the isolation of rubber bushes. Solid bushing of everything will definitely lead to earlier death of some part or other though, as every mechanical bang and crash gets transmitted to somewhere where it used to be buffered.

Because it's just a 2 state bleed. It's a digital on-off arrangement. With Nissan it's X (where X is a fixed 5 or 10 or similar) psi from the spring with the solenoid closed and Z (=X + Y where Y is a fixed 2 or 3 or 5 or something similar) psi when open and bleeding. Mac valves are throttled by the PWM controller to give an analogue effect. With PWM control, it's X + A where A can be anything at any time depending on the limits of the bleed size, duty cycle limits, etc.

OK, so now we're a bit more clear. When you said "only have pulse on 1 & 3", that's not true, and it was conflicted by what you said in your first post "pulled the coils out tested it seams to have spark on all coils also pulled the rail off an all six pulse fuel out". What you really meant was "all cylinders except 1 & 3 appear to really suck". Could be that those other 4 injectors are too dirty to give you a decent dose, the spark plugs are shitty, the compressions are actually really shit and perhaps masked by oil in the cylinders, etc etc etc. We are not going to be able to remote diagnose this. I suggest you either take it all apart yourself and see what's inside, or take it to a mechanic for a little bit of directed and effective diagnosis.

Read Duncan's reply. You haven't fixed all your problem. You've only masked the bit that was annoying you. The OEM boost solenoid is not meant to be driven PWM.

Are you saying that when it is running it is only running on 2 cylinders?

Yeah, I think if it's not just glass out, then it is quite possibly glass out + mechanism out, to give you the required access to the spot you need to poke the bolt and swing the spanner. I'd suggest you got (un)lucky being able to do what you did to it as it was. Lucky that you could get the spanner onto it. Unlucky because you probably can't put it back together!

What that means is, at idle, the engine should be running 20° of advance. Your engine appears to be running 12° at idle, which presuming the synch is correct**, would be a bit retarded. Literally. Makes it sluggish and makes the idle exhaust temp a little hot, wasting fuel, blahdie blah. **which it appears to be based on your observation of what everything says when it is locked up. If the ECU is idling the engine at 12°, then that number should be easily found in the idle table/settings in the software, and you could change it to 15 or 20 and should see the result immediately.

There were auto Type Ms. It's not like Type M means anything particularly special. It's not the Vspec of GTSts.

The only CU in the RHS footwell on an R32 is the TCU. If it is/was an auto.