GTSBoy

What? You want to run the turbo auto box with the non-turbo auto box's TCU? Why would you do that? The non turbo box's TCU is not the right TCU. You want to use the one in the Neo ECU. So you need the Neo engine loom (which you probably have) and you want the other looms that connect the ECU/TCU to the tranny. If you don't get the looms, then you're going to have to consult the wiring diagrams and build them from scratch, which does not sound like fun.

Might have broken the drive gear on the sender. Electrically, the sender sends a +/-1V AC/sawtooth signal out - exactly what you'd expect from a rotating coil/magnet arrangement. The dash works with that signal. The dash converts it to a 0-5V square wave signal for the ECU. There's nothing that could have happened from changing the ECU (because it's at the tail end of the signal chain) that could have caused the speedo to stop working. The only possibility is that you damaged the wiring from the speed sensor up to the speedo, but you say that you've checked it and it's OK. We have to trust you on that. But there's a couple of other points to suggest/query. The RB25DET gearbox's speed sender is on the gearbox. I thought that the R34 N/A manuals had the speed sender on the diff nose. In which case....if you've been looking at wiring plugs on the gearbox, you may have been looking at the neutral or reverse switch and not the speed sender. Perhaps worth another look and a rethink. The speed sender is down low on the RHS, towards the rear end of the box. The other two elect connectors on that side of the box are the neutral and reverse switches. If you do not have a working speedo, then there a number of ECU functions that will not work properly. You really need the speed signal to the ECU or it won't run things completely properly. Things like having the idle sit higher when the vehicle is rolling with clutch in or in neutral won't happen without it. And lastly, drive it gently. Those skinny little RB20 gearboxes do not last very long if you give them RB25 torque. I killed 2 of them just with a boosted RB20. Wore out the input shaft bearings.

Also, according to my quick look at Nistune just then, Neo turbo switches at 5400rpm.

Dude. It's 20 years old. Just replace it with a stock one and wait another 20 years before worrying about it again.

I did. But to do it, I made sure that I put a non-HICAS rear subframe in (from a Cefiro, of all things, yuck), so that I did not have a HICAS eliminator kit installed. It was all stock Nissan toe arms, so did not look like it was missing anything. The reason I did that is that I could not afford to stuff around. It isn't legal to modify a steering system without engineering, and sadly, HICAS is a steering system. The unknown is how the Regency inspectors would react to a HICAS eliminator kit. You wouldn't have one on there and not mention it, because if they see it (and they will) and it is not on the list of mods that you're applying to get approved, they will want an explanation. If you disclose it in advance on your application.....they may demand engineering. I took the coward's option.

Where your fuel rail is, you can see the injectors. Where they enter the inlet manifold runners is the spot where the vacuum signal comes from. But the vacuum manifold I described is UNDER the inlet. If the hose is not still present and just blocked off, it is going to be difficult.

There's a little vacuum manifold that connects to all the inlet runners between the throttle blades and the head. This is where the 26 gets vacuum signal to run the brakes, and boost gauge, etc. You will not have fun trying to work under there.

I wouldn't count on it fitting older 25s. The advert explicitly talks about ONLY putting it on Neo 25s. (and 26s as a retro with the other stuff you need to do). I don't know for 100% sure, but I think that the difference between cam front end details on older 25 to Neos means they are not same same.

You can safely leave it open to atmosphere. It was only connected to the intake for "emissions" reasons.

Ah, but there's the rub. Rod ends make the caster rod work like it should - stops the wheel moving fore-aft under load. The car improved out of sight when I replaced adjustable Whiteline urethaned caster rods with Teins. I've been preaching that line for years. With the GKTech FUCAs, I set them to stock length when I installed them, having no other guide to a starting number. Ended up with a bit more camber than I wanted so had to wind them out a few mm. Car is at legal height.

Nismo arms solve nothing. They are actually worse in almost every sense. They only make sense at stock ride height when combined with the Nismo upper bracket and the Nismo caster rod. The problem is that they are shorter than the stockers. Most of us actually need to lengthen the upper arms to undo the extra camber from (even sensible) lowering. Only need ~1.5° of camber on a streeter, but can easily have lots more than that (and also different values side to side) with stock arms. This is where the GKTech arms looked good to me. Apart from Duncan's shit news about someone breaking one on the track, they look strong and they handle the twisting that gets jammed into the FUCA when the 32 suspension moves. Oh...and they are adjustable for length. I had to lengthen mine compared to stock to get the right camber, and had to have the RHS one ~5mm longer than the left. In reality, adjustable poly bushes in stock arms would make a lot of sense, if they didn't get annihilated by the incorrect geometry caused by winding on even just a tiny bit more caster. They even crap themselves without winding in any extra caster.

The usual suspects, Amayama, Nengun, Just Jap, various bods on eBay.

Not really. It's the plastic itself changing colour in response to heat. So it's not like yellowed headlight lenses from UV, just on the surface. It's all the way through the plastic. So you can't scour the surface off or treat it with something to reverse the discolouration. They're also getting older and weaker....so messing about with them is not recommended. If you do, you might be replacing them anyway!

That's not really what I wanted to hear about the GK-Tech uppers. I'm going to have to cross my fingers and hope, because I'm not going back to stock arms. The recommendation for stock arms is all well and good, but if you need to correct camber you're up shit creek with the stockers. That's the reason that I put (originally) Whiteline and then at least 2 sets of Superpro in the front of my car over the years. Even with grease nipples added (I added them myself in ~2002) the bushes take a beating. I might have to modify my spare brackets to Nismo spec and try with new urethanes in my adjustable stockers if I break a GK-Tech arm.

Super dooper brand name degreasers are usually better than the cheapies, but not by a big enough margin to justify the cost. The spray cans of SCA/Export solvent stuff are useful for poking into tight spots and loosening thick grease, but the better stuff for bulk application is more detergent based. Supercheap have 10L drums of stuff for ~$50, but you can get similar stuff in 4L bottles that will last you ages. Just need a spray bottle.

Well, yeah. Superpro is pretty much the default choice. Look up my recentish posts on the topic of the GKTech FUCAs. Worth a look at, even if they aren't road legal. Urethane bushes in the stock Nissan 32 FUCAs arre not great. Same same with using rose joints on the caster rods, rather than urethane bushes in the stockers. I posted years and years ago about how much better they were. If you were to do those things, then the only remaining bushes in the front end are the lower control arms and the ARBs.

$10k worth of discs? Where's the value? I'm assuming that they will be going back onto the Audi and not actually being used on the track, right? You do realise that all the Audi/Merc/Porsche owners with ceramic brakes take them off for track work, or even for street work, then put them back on to sell the car with?

Hi beams not working is more likely to be the dash/column switch. And yes, Nissan will stock the fuses. Might not be fun to pay for though.

People stopped using Nolathane about a million years ago......

They are all alloy engine, that produce 254kw as base. Nismo racing in Super Gt series opt for this motor over the Nissan Gtr VR38DETT.....OH YES YOU CAN MAKE IT FIT. Sorry, was thinking VH with the iron block thingo. But nevertheless, 254kW from 4.5L is not strong. VQ37VHR makes essentially the same stick from just over 80% of the capacity.

well if you going to make such an effort. Why not a VK45DE. Well, now we're talking about choosing between a much more modern all alloy V6 that is more likely to fit into the engine bay, or a vintage all iron low performance V8 that is likely to be too long, too heavy, too wide.......

Just ring Kelfords. Abandon that shitty Poncam stuff.

It's pretty clearly leaking from the o-ring under the edge of the tank. Bin it and buy a new one.

I said "radio/air-con surround". The removable dash trim that goes around all the stuff in the centre of the dash. As to where the temp sensor connects to.....if you can see the hose and sensor in the top right corner of the pats image you posted, and can see a spot on your climate control/heater module where a ~1/2" plastic hose would connect, then that's where it goes. It is quite likely that it is the connection in your first photo.....but let's face it, how am I going to have a mental image of what that looks like 1/2 stripped apart. I've only ever seen it looking at it upside down with everything still installed. As to the hot air.....either the climate control computer can't cope with having half of its inputs (ie the internal temp sensor) not connected or the hot water tap is stuck open. Either of these are quite likely. As to whether you can ever make the system work again....who's to say? Just about any little or large part of it might be broken or missing, including wiring. All we can do is wish you luck.

There's a small slotted vent in the dash. The image you show is for R32. The vent is in the lower right of the radio/air-con surround on those. The temp sensor is in a plastic fitting behind that, connected to a hose that goes back to that inlet on the A/C. You can see it in the top right corner of your first image. 27054M. 27621E. The wiring loom to the sensor is not shown.