Duncan

Well I don't have specific experience with the non-turbo engines, but I always love to see a skyline racing It is hard to see how you will end up quicker than a 2.0l honda as engine and whole car will weigh a fair bit more. If you want to stay nissan (and who wouldn't), what about an n/a slivia with that SR20VE you mentioned. Must be lighter, reasonable suspension geometry etc.

@Savman might be a good source of info, although he was interested in turbo not NA differences. From memory there was an RB20VE somewhere along the line which was even better then DE with the variable valve timing. I don't know what the class rules/restrictions you are looking at, but there are a lot more efficient 2.0l na engines than an RB20.

There must be a decent machine shop, Toronto's not that small! Any opinions from the interweb are guesses, that needs to be checked and measured. I don't know what you know about the engine's history, but some of those bores still seem to have hone marks (cross hatches) on them and 87mm pistons aren't factory, so someone has been in there before, and probably recently. And of course you can't tell how good a job was done, or why the engine was apart that time.... Also, a main bearing is only going to seize due to a major oil supply problem, so you need someone who can work out what happened there. As for repairs, cranks can be checked for straightness, ground for undersized bearings and the block and girdle tunnel bored to match so that can all be fixed depending on the depth of the scores. My guess is the cams will need replacement and the cam journals will need tunnel boring too. And, at least one of the cylinders looks like it needs honing at least; if so you need new rings for 87mm pistons, or if the block needs boring out from 87 it should probably be junked. I'd carefully check and probably replace the oil pump A new block might be the way to go, they come with matching machined girdle but be careful assembling as they don't come with all oil plugs etc installed. If you go that way you will still need new 86mm pistons and rings, all bearings, and you still need to get the head checked for those scores. You need to thoroughly clean all externals that have oil (oil/water heat exchanger under the oil filter, any oil cooler should be replaced), turbo(s), oil lines etc as they will all have bearings in them that can kill the fresh engine before you reassemble.

No, R34 /neo and R33 had different connectors for the ECU, there were a couple of other differences around traction control too I think. Just keep an eye out, there must be a billion r33 Power FCs out there still. And make sure you donate that Wolf to a museum, haven't come across on of those in ages!

I've had this kit for a few years with no problem https://justjap.com/jjr-silicone-engine-heater-hose-set-nissan-rb26dett-r32-gtr-black.html

Thanks for correcting that, yes Transmax Z is the stuff for ATTESSA actuator, transfer case, power steering!

It's not exactly clear from the pics which line it is, so I can't confirm part#. However, it is unusual for those hoses to leak (of course nothing is impossible). I'd undo and then nip up the banjo bolt at the each end of the hose, and also the flare fitting at the back of the transfer case. Then degrease everything and check again after some driving. If there is a light leak there, it's not the cause of your 4wd problem, there is nothing major in those pics. If you replace that line you will need to refill the boot reservoir and rebleed the system. You can use any good auto trans fluid, I use Castrol Syntrans in the race car but I don't know if that's available where you are. You could use a syringe to pull fluid out of the boot before you undo the line if you want to minimise the fluid that runs through.

Yes, as long as you don't the engine much. Why do you want to remove it? replacing split hose or going single turbo?

It will

Hi Anal, I'd contact the "big brake kit" seller and ask what they have that suits. Noting it is not exactly a "kit" if there are no brake lines....

VCT gives you extra whoosh in the midrange by adjusting the cam. It can't make your run poorly but it is worth sorting out a fix so it gives you the available whoosh.

squinting harder.....

there's 2 plugs in that pic, and neither are broken. that is one hard internet test

don't worry about it mate. if that is the issue you won't make it worse warming it up. back to an earlier question what did you mean when you said the turbos were "blown". potentially an overboost issue could end up with ring land problems on the rear 3 cylinders too, but either way it is the same solution (pull engine and tear it down)

Agreed, but the concern is all 3 rear cylinders are well down which matches an issue with the rear turbo affecting cylinders 4-6

Sorry but it doesn't look good. When the exhaust wheel lets got at 150,000rpm, ceramic pieces have enough velocity to travel against the exhaust gas, through the open exhaust valve, and scratch the shit out of the cylinder bores. Happened to me when I first got my car, and I guess it has just happened to you. A borescope could be used through the spark plug hole to inspect the bore for scratches. If that has occurred, you need engine out bottom end rebuild, with bored out cylinders and oversize pistons. Expensive, but not compared to GTR prices these days....

It's well off topic, but on track insurance is available, the cost just reflects the risk. A condition of the Evo I leased for the Bathurst 6 hour a few years back was write off insurance, and it cost about 25% of the car's value for the weekend.

Lumley. And no, its not covered while racing, but is covered for fire, theft, accidental damage, on trailer, driving between stages etc etc etc

Funny you should say that. We were literally today increasing the agreed value for the race car 3x because I can't imagine how I would reshell and fit out a R32 GTR for $25k these days... Might just cut the cage out and buy some carpet....watch out carsales! Low KLM....

PAR are still around although with a reduced line these days. Try contacting Haysam through the PAR website, others on here may have direct contact details too

That I don't know. I run a separate sender for safety since the stock dash one is about 30 years old.....of course that requires the sender, some sort of t piece and wiring the sender to the ECU which is a bigger job.

Yes exactly. Any of those illumination lights under the dash are suitable, and tapping into the dash looms i easiest because you can indicators and handbrake there too.

Thanks for passing on your good habits there Neil. Still have too many partially finished job but at least the tools are put back clean

Considering the length of the installation write up, you'd think they would include a wiring diagram, especially when it is so intrusive. One option would be to ask them for a diagram instead of just description (some saying about pictures being worth a thousand words....) My understanding is the 12v to the pump needs a 30A power supply, through a relay triggered by IGN and the pressure switch. Of the 2 wires into the pressure switch, one should have continuity to earth (leave this), the other will trigger the relay) Wiring to the relay (my understanding, I've never done this and the instructions aren't great....) 85 - connect to the pressure switch wire which does not have continuity to earth. I believe that is terminal 4 on the diagram but check 86 - 12v from IGN position of key. You can take this from any source that has 12v only when the key in at IGN. 30 - 12v, 30A fused power feed (from battery or other known high amp source) 87 - 12v to the pump. The other wire on the pump can go straight to a good earth. Also, there is more information on the stock system and wiring pC-57 onwards in the 32 GTR manual. Having said all that, in the case of a basic road car install, in recommended order: 1. Get an auto electrician to do this, expect it to take probably a day 2. Connect it to the existing wiring and relays, which is why they provided the ATTESSA computer pin outs. Everything you need is already there assuming it was working OK 3. Wire from scratch as you seem to be doing is the hardest if you are not familiar with auto electrica

I bet the injectors are blocked. Can you remove them and get them cleaned?