Duncan
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Everything posted by Duncan
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sounds like a wheel spoke problem, and changing them may well be the cheapest way out. you mean the spokes hit the caliper as they curve into the hub, right? But I saw you have the option in your WTB thread to space them out, that might get around the issue. BTW be careful when looking at second hand brake setup prices. When you take into account known pad and disc thickness, and possible brake line issues, the G4/Attkd/D2 etc ones have always looked like better value to me, brand new in a full set....
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you just can't guess mate, there were too many versions of r200 diffs and they are not interchangeable. Plus someone has been inside it. To be sure you need: * markings from crownwheel (to confirm ratio) * pic of the diff centre to confirm LSD-ness * count of the output shaft splines
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Agreed, you need them to take the back off. no matter what it left the factory as, someone has been in there since. I'll bet there were some R33s that had shorter ratios than 4.11 for instance gts4. The numbers will be on the crown wheel to tell you what the ratio is (needs to be opened) Also, I note there are no ABS sensors on either the tailshaft or driveshaft outputs. from memory 33 gtst has 3 channel ABS with ABS on the tailshaft so it may not be gtst. I don't know where the gtr abs senders are on a gtr, but I would have thought they were on each driveshaft like r32....
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Cutting Down Torque Steer R32 GTR
Duncan replied to duz10s's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
I don't know how manageable you would expect a 1100HP gtr to be? As well as the diff centres, I'd be making sure every bush and ball joint was new, particularly in the front. every little bit of slack adds up Also, wider front tyres increase tramlining too. -
Not that I have a spare...but are you after 33 GTR or W34 Stagea?
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Perfect, makes sense
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Thanks for closing the loop for autos BTW I confirmed that 32 GTR driveshaft is the same as your 33 one pictured above (32mm/40mm), and both of the spares I checked have their balancing weight the same distance from the head to clear the clutch slave cylinder on a manual. My stagea is manual and the gtr driveshaft clears everything including the clutch slave, although there is only about 2mm to the clutch slave bleed nipple. I've not had a clearance issue in 10 years.
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lol amazingly it does....I'll see what I have. Do you know where the type is stamped? And is the top of the page in your diagram the front or rear of the car?
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Do you have more info about exactly what you need? Are we talking gearbox cross member? What is a B or C type and which bolt holes are the issue?
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Yeah sorry, I should have said...the legal towing capacity is the least of: The manufacturer's rating for the car The towbar manufacturer/towbar engineer's load rating The tow ball rating The trailer's load rating
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I understand the towing limit is set by the car manufacturer, which in the case of a SEVS import is the complier? Or if someone has nissan's info on stagea towing limits that would be interesting to know
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I've towed a lot with my stagea. It's 4wd but I don't think that makes any difference 99% of the time. When you are towing you have the regular weight plus 200kg over the rear wheels which gives plenty of traction in most circumstances. I never got stuck anywhere, but consider if you might need to go on muddy grass or gravel at times when loading or unloading. One thing I would say, is that if you are towing heavy with a stock, auto stagea you will need some patience on hills. It won't be the slowest thing out there but it won't be a rocket either. Over the years I upgraded mine to rb30 with a small aftermarket turbo making about 250kw which was enough to tow the GTR up everything.
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can do...just pm me your email address
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Hi guys, sorry I don't have, or know the whereabouts, of an M35 manual. I do have the C34 manual (in japanese) for anyone who wants it
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Interesting. Mine is now manual which means the parking brake is no longer in stock position which may have made a difference. alternatively if the balancing tab was moved further down the shaft, would it clear? BTW I can't see in the pic exactly where it is larger...any chance you can add an arrow
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Maybe I should have been clearer, the requirement to be polite to other forum users applies to everyone, regardless of whether you think you are responding to someone else who "started it". If you are unhappy with the tone of a post report it, don't respond in kind.
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Hi Rice Racing, you may have confused SAU with other internet forums. Cut the personal attacks and enjoy your time here. For now this is just a warning but the next personal attack will result in banning.
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I've used both silicone and rubber blanking caps without issue (although not at that boost, but I don't think it makes a difference). For that matter I've used all sorts of "whatever I have around in the right size" sealers like 6mm bolts or solid rod to blank off unneeded hoses. I even saw a mechanic using a old oil filter to seal a gtr intake when doing a leak down test. Basically anything the right size that won't crush under a hose clamp A blanking cap is no more likely to come loose than any hose joint, so whatever hose clamps you use elsewhere will work the same for a blanking cap.
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Those instructions only state wire colours for their converter so it's certainly not specific to stagea. I've had one of these running in my stagea for about 10 years as a speedo corrector but I don't have the wiring handy; I will try and check in a couple of days when i do have the dash out. But Bobby's suggested approach is the safest way; in most cases the back of the dash has printing that says what each track is (although sometimes it is in japanese as in the example he showed..) Also, I've sent you a link to the manual
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Are they LEDs or regular globes. LEDs have a polarity so if you took them out to clean it's possible you were just really unlucky putting them back in backwards. It could also be an incorrectly mated plug to the dash where one of the earths has not lined up properly. Just check the pins are all straight on the plugs and plug them in again
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well, that sort of depends whether it's actually on boost when the gauge doesn't work or not a missfire can stop the engine running well enough to create decent boost. Alternatively, an electrical issue like a bad earth, dying alternator etc could also cause a misfire. There's just too many reasons to really guess without more information. Is your current situation that you have mostly 98 on board, you drove it 5 times yesterday, you haven't had a MIL for the last 3 trips, and it missfires? And where specifically does it misfire, approx which revs? And does it misfire if you free rev it or only when you are driving it properly under load? If it is just light missfire in the mid range under load it is most likely a spark plug or coil pack issue. start by pulling the plugs out and checking their condition and gap. If the gap is over 0.8mm gap them down to that and see how that goes.
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If you can control yourself it's safe enough....its just hard to be good all the time The quick option is to lower the base timing by 2-3o, that should make the factory tune safe on 91. Just need a timing light to do it correctly. Of course it won't be as crisp in the midrange but at least it will be safe on low octane
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Yeah, I'd fuel up at 1/4 tank with 98 and yes you end up with the average octane so that will be OK. I've been caught a few times without high octane when I'm out and about and it's fine. Actually back in the day when I was out at Alice Springs for 6 months my old 33 ran on only 91 and it survived OK....you only need the whole octane rating at maximum torque / maximum load. So if you aren't flooring it up a long hill in 4th at full boost it's fine. Aftermarket tunes are almost always less tolerant to make more power but factory is pretty safe.
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running on 91 is perfectly safe assuming you were just pottering around. If you floored it up a hill and noticed but ignored the sound of a small rock rattling in a tin then you've likely f**ked your engine. Is the car idling and running OK? Do you have 98 in it again now? It's most likely not related to the fuel, but you still need to find out what the error code is. Any local mechanic could put a scanner on it, or like Callan said there would be a tutorial on here somewhere on how to get it into diagnostic mode to tell you what the error is
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Well I don't have first hand experience with VQ35, but on VK56 which is very similar motor and ECU, error codes only appear with flange sealing problems, not from removing the cat. I suspect people confuse the 2 because they have to undo the flanges to change the pipe, and just see the error afterwards. Just use new nissan gaskets rather than the cheapies generally supplied with a kit and you'll be fine. I initially had ECL after changing over, but retorquing the flanges after a few heat cycles cleared it...
