Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is my return flow setup:

 

10929096_1009459115735114_79092875403676

 

In saying that i will be going to a custom piping setup in the next month. Just to make it cleaner less pipes and to fit a 4inch pod

  • Like 2
39 minutes ago, blah_blah said:

This is my return flow setup:

 

10929096_1009459115735114_79092875403676

 

In saying that i will be going to a custom piping setup in the next month. Just to make it cleaner less pipes and to fit a 4inch pod

Mmmm that looks awesome! Have you got any more pics?  

50 minutes ago, kingtube69 said:

Mmmm that looks awesome! Have you got any more pics?  

Only pics i got:

 

1939497_1009458549068504_274021022972297

 

10559751_1021991617815197_81149067125310

If anyone is interested i might sell my existing cooler pipe setup if i dont need it after my custom one

39 minutes ago, Manuel Kasko said:

@blah_blah Tony, those look like 3inch cooler pipes yeah? 

Pretty sure the U bend and connecting long pipe is. the rest of the piping is either 2.5 to 3 inches

Would need to check to be sure though

14 hours ago, blah_blah said:

If anyone is interested i might sell my existing cooler pipe setup if i dont need it after my custom one

My R32 has the same cooler kit, It was abnormally laggy, and I tried doing:

cooler.jpg

might be worth while give it a short and see if there is much differences in throttle response. Mine was huge. 

Well I'd expect a huge difference in throttle response with no intercooler too!

So a water to air cooler, aka celica gt4 style which keeps the inlet tract super short might have some benefit for rb20 tragics? haha.

 

How is the research with the RB20 going?

haha the RB20det is probably the most troublesome, in past cases I just need to bolt up the bits, sort out the ecu and its good. But in this case I had to diagnose and fix heaps of worn OEM pieces that I didn't expect, plus mods fitted by previous owners didn't work as they seems. Still fixing and setting up test bed at current stage.

 

 

 

  • Like 1

The return flow setup shown on top of the page,is the same setup

Vl turbos where running in the 90s and still some today.Core depending ..cant be to bad for flow as they run 9s on 30ish psi with autos and 3582s

Cant be to much pressure drop slowing them down..

Cheers

Darren

On 15/01/2017 at 10:37 PM, V28VX37 said:

I've had this small issue recently with my ATR43-SS2 (2013) where I occasionally find a drop of oil underneath the front housing. I have checked the water and oil lines and they are all fine and tight. I've also been conscious to wipe the housing clean each time in an effort to pinpoint where it's coming from.

I took the photo below just then, you can see a bit of oil collecting at the edge of the housing and right under one of the housing bolts. It also looks a little wet right around the bolt so I'm wondering if that's the cause? I chucked a 13mm socket in there and tightened it a touch (it turned easy enough) but didn't want to overdo it as I don't know the torque specs.

@hypergear Tao have you seen these turbos spring a leak there before? What's the torque specs on the housing bolts? Cheers

32201403301_8f8ede1f1a_b.jpg

Bill and I were wracking our brains at Sandown about this and we reckon it's actually the oil feed line on the top of the core, leaking under the fitting that connects the braided line to the core. That sprays oil onto the rear of the front housing, which then drips down to the comp cover as above. The fitting under the oil line in the top left corner below:

28664626573_0ec72d6ac6_z.jpg 

Apparently there's a copper washer under that fitting and it's important that it's annealed before installation (?).

Tao, any pointers on where I could get a replacement fitting and copper washer for this turbo (ATR43SS2 late 2013)?

Cheers

8 hours ago, V28VX37 said:

Bill and I were wracking our brains at Sandown about this and we reckon it's actually the oil feed line on the top of the core, leaking under the fitting that connects the braided line to the core. That sprays oil onto the rear of the front housing, which then drips down to the comp cover as above. The fitting under the oil line in the top left corner below:

28664626573_0ec72d6ac6_z.jpg 

Apparently there's a copper washer under that fitting and it's important that it's annealed before installation (?).

Tao, any pointers on where I could get a replacement fitting and copper washer for this turbo (ATR43SS2 late 2013)?

Cheers

I don't think the fitting would require replacement, just the copper washer.  Autobarn should carry them, if not try a pirtek or similar. Annealing definitely helps as it allows the washer to be crushed nicely and provide a good seal imo.

  • Like 1
9 hours ago, V28VX37 said:

Bill and I were wracking our brains at Sandown about this and we reckon it's actually the oil feed line on the top of the core, leaking under the fitting that connects the braided line to the core. That sprays oil onto the rear of the front housing, which then drips down to the comp cover as above. The fitting under the oil line in the top left corner below:

28664626573_0ec72d6ac6_z.jpg 

Apparently there's a copper washer under that fitting and it's important that it's annealed before installation (?).

Tao, any pointers on where I could get a replacement fitting and copper washer for this turbo (ATR43SS2 late 2013)?

Cheers

Yeah I have also noticed that every few events it would start leaking and the washer needs to be replaced, at first I had a alloy fitting and the fitting also needed to be replaced as it must of been deformed from the heat now using a steel fitting seems only the washers die.

  • Like 1

its just a 12mm copper washer you can get them form Auto spare shops normally hanging on a wall pack. the drain adaptor gasket is to suit OEM drain pipe, cheapest place to get that is Ebay or simply cut one out of gasket paper. No silicon glue on either of the fittings. 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Thats a pretty reasonable figure consider for the boost given. how much power r u hopping for? More then happy to make it bigger free. :D 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...