Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Now available:

COIL PACK HARNESS - R32 GTST RB20DET - COMING SOON
COIL PACK HARNESS - SERIES 1 R33 GTST RB25DET- $100.00 delivered via express post.
COIL PACK HARNESS - SERIES 2 R33 GTST RB25DET - $105.00 delivered via express post.
COIL PACK HARNESS - R34 GTT RB2DET NEO - COMING SOON
COIL PACK HARNESS - R32 GTR RB26DETT - COMING SOON
COIL PACK HARNESS - R33 GTR RB26DETT - COMING SOON
COIL PACK HARNESS - R34 GTR RB26DETT - $115.00 delivered via express post.
COIL PACK HARNESS - 180SX/S13 CA18DET - $100.00 delivered via express post.
COIL PACK HARNESS - S13/S14 SR20DET - $110.00 delivered via express post.
COIL PACK HARNESS - S15 SR20DET - $115.00 delivered via express post.

All items are in stock in Australia and will be sent via express post.

CLICK HERE for more pics and details or to purchase.

Combine your order by purchasing a new set of Yellow Jackets Coils Packs and receive free shipping on the matching Coil Pack harness.

  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 217
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi Paul

I remember a while ago there was some talk about Yellow Jacket Ignitors. Is there any update with these?

Thanks

I have them nearly ready for the R33 GTST but need to get the plug fitment better. They are currently too tight.

I need to get hold of some stock plugs or a stock ignitor so I can improve on this.

  • 3 months later...

S15 Yellow Jackets are now available for $340/set delivered.

Posted Image

Also available.....

Brand New Yellow Jackets T-Shirts for $25.00 delivered

Front print - Plain back.

100% pre-shrunk cotton.

Available in white only.

Sizes - Small / Medium / Large / Extra Large / Extra Extra Large

Posted Image

Now available:

 

COIL PACK HARNESS - R32 GTST RB20DET - COMING SOON

COIL PACK HARNESS - SERIES 1 R33 GTST RB25DET- $100.00 delivered via express post.

COIL PACK HARNESS - SERIES 2 R33 GTST RB25DET - $105.00 delivered via express post.

COIL PACK HARNESS - R34 GTT RB2DET NEO - COMING SOON

COIL PACK HARNESS - R32 GTR RB26DETT - COMING SOON

COIL PACK HARNESS - R33 GTR RB26DETT - COMING SOON

COIL PACK HARNESS - R34 GTR RB26DETT - $115.00 delivered via express post.

COIL PACK HARNESS - 180SX/S13 CA18DET - $100.00 delivered via express post.

COIL PACK HARNESS - S13/S14 SR20DET -  $110.00 delivered via express post.

COIL PACK HARNESS - S15 SR20DET - $115.00 delivered via express post.

 

All items are in stock in Australia and will be sent via express post.

 

CLICK HERE for more pics and details or to purchase.

 

Combine your order by purchasing a new set of Yellow Jackets Coils Packs and receive free shipping on the matching Coil Pack harness.

Hi there!

Any news on whether the R34 GTT RB25DET Neo coil pack harness is available?

Unfortunately these arent going ahead as the manufacturers dont normally make them and if we were to go ahead Id need to order a minimum of 100 pcs. :(

Unfortunately these arent going ahead as the manufacturers dont normally make them and if we were to go ahead Id need to order a minimum of 100 pcs. :(

Ok so I'll have to get them from Nissan I suppose, and connect them with the Yellow Jacket R34 GTT RB25DET coil packs (if you have any in stock)

Sorry I can help out with the harness. However, I definitely have the Yellow Jackets in stock and they will be sent out via express as soon as your payment has been received.

:cheers:

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Hi - can pm me the price for coil packs and harness? BNR32 GTR? - May want to get an item or 2 from your site as well... maybe can package the shipping? Please let me know.

Thanks!

Excellent seller and brilliant service - bought the harness - fits perfect - will definitely do business again! Cheers

Total price is $

Hello need a price for r33 gtr coil packs and harness posted to 2145

Total price is $540.00 including express post to 2145. :cheers:

  • 1 month later...



  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...