Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 05/05/2021 at 6:53 AM, reaper said:

I think a 6870 could be a good match for a 2.8 with vcam and you'd probably be all in under 5. Keen to see someone try it though.

Nothing wrong wit a 6466, its a perfect street turbo imo just doesn't have the legs of the bigger cars.

doesnt one of the dahtone cars have setup? 2.8 + vcam + something 

21 hours ago, r32-25t said:

I was talking to the owner of the r32 gtr with the plates “billet” he has a 2.8 in a billet block making 1150hp at the wheels and regularly drives it on the street and has done 40 plus passes (best being a 9.0 at 160+mph) and he says it’s never been an issue and he drives it in stop/start traffic and the lot.
 

What he did say is he changes his oil pretty regularly and makes sure the oil is up to 80° before he drives it and apart from that it’s no different to having a cast block 

Yep the Malas brothers have had a good run with theirs and it does get driven.

They have also changed the oil as regularly as every 100km's in it and are pedantic about oil and water being up to temp before any kind of revs (which is a good thing) which I am sure does help.

That being said I have no intention of ever putting one in a street car :)

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, reaper said:

Yep the Malas brothers have had a good run with theirs and it does get driven.

They have also changed the oil as regularly as every 100km's in it and are pedantic about oil and water being up to temp before any kind of revs (which is a good thing) which I am sure does help.

That being said I have no intention of ever putting one in a street car :)

Maybe a minimum oil change interval specification is required for a car to be called a "street car"

7 hours ago, reaper said:

Yep the Malas brothers have had a good run with theirs and it does get driven.

They have also changed the oil as regularly as every 100km's in it and are pedantic about oil and water being up to temp before any kind of revs (which is a good thing) which I am sure does help.

That being said I have no intention of ever putting one in a street car :)

Not exactly feasible to warm up the car for 10 min in order to pop around to the shops or the gym

31 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

who uses a gtr to pop to the shops? If Im going to bother to get the gtr out I’m going for a good drive 

was going to ay the same thing lol who could be bothered dragging a GTR out of the garage to go get milk lol

On 09/06/2021 at 9:05 PM, ido09s said:

was going to ay the same thing lol who could be bothered dragging a GTR out of the garage to go get milk lol

I used to take mine to the gym all the time, then out for a coffee at the local shops.

Will definitely be doing it again when it's back on the road

Not just sitting there idling though, quicker you get to operation temp the better under light load. It'll take a lot more than 10 minutes idling to get to 80 oil temp, even at 40+ ambient unless your cooling system sucks.

Mine comes out of the garage and runs till i know the door is down then its off down the road. Maybe 3 minutes and i am out of there. The engine is 17 years old now and still going strong. We have a GReddy sandwich plate with thermostat so it gets temp into it quick, but i cant be bothered warming it up. Just drive it sensibly and it will be fine

  • Like 2
22 hours ago, BK said:

Not just sitting there idling though, quicker you get to operation temp the better under light load. It'll take a lot more than 10 minutes idling to get to 80 oil temp, even at 40+ ambient unless your cooling system sucks.

 

This.

 

Can't stand it when people sit there idling their cars for 10+ minutes, it's doing more harm than good. Never seen a GT3/V8 Supercar/Pro time attack car etc sit idling for 10 minutes, you fire it up and get moving. 

  • Like 1
12 hours ago, Unzipped Composites said:

 

This.

 

Can't stand it when people sit there idling their cars for 10+ minutes, it's doing more harm than good. Never seen a GT3/V8 Supercar/Pro time attack car etc sit idling for 10 minutes, you fire it up and get moving. 

yup 100 percent mate. i live in an area where it gets extremely cold even minus 50 celcius sometimes. even then if the block heater was plugged in you only wait a couple minutes(or high idle it and thats better) then slowly warm it up driving keeping rpms lowish. warms everything else up slowly too transmission diff etc.  im sure most of you mates see how long it takes oil temps to rise in a gtr so just imagine your rb sitting there tryng to reach oil temps at idle? would take for ever and does a number on your rings especially older motors that arent perfect anymore. my gtr always smoked out the exhaust a bit until i got her warmed up so i never let it idle longer than 1 minute(and this wasnt the turbo as was a brand new precision).  get the rings and pistons hot soon as possible your engine will thank you.  that sitting idling crap is for the birds. 

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
On 01/05/2021 at 10:21 AM, BK said:

You tune with JEM right ? What did they say ?

Back onto the topic of billet turbos instead of billet blocks

i was at a dyno day at jem early this month and decided to ask Adam about the 6870 2.8 combo while I was there, he said it should make 650kw at the wheels and be all in at 4500

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, r32-25t said:

Back onto the topic of billet turbos instead of billet blocks

i was at a dyno day at jem early this month and decided to ask Adam about the 6870 2.8 combo while I was there, he said it should make 650kw at the wheels and be all in at 4500

I think he's dreaming....

Have a look another look at Reapers graph that you posted? 

A large static cam 2.8 will do better than a 3.2L V cam? 🤔

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know if you can disassemble the thing and put it backwards for different ramp rates. They're both "2 ways" or both "1.5 ways" because well, 2 ways and 1.5 ways are the same 'thing' I do not know for sure, but I believe the 38420-RSS15-B5 is the 1 way, and 38420-RSS20-B5 is the two way. In other words, I predict Nissan considers this: to be a 1.5 way. No idea what actually happens when it arrives/you disassemble it. It would be an excellent question to ask Nismo directly! I somehow doubt you will get an answer though, I feel you would be the first person to document what you encounter when you open the box and the internet would be grateful.
    • I'm going to slap an old nismo logo sticker on my spare one and sell it to the land of the free for a thousand bucks
    • lol, probably should have read further!
    • Well - they have arrived.  And they are easy on the eye to put it mildly... These only have three bolts - but for a start there is a key that fits with vacuum like precision..  And as you can see by my ruler, the interface is large..   I listened to a podcast on HP Academy about Dan (KiwiCNC) and I'm more than comfortable he knows what he is doing. R35 Bearing assembly should arrive later today so can mock that up for a look. Can't wait to get these on and get some brake pressure logging too. IMG_3860.MP4
    • I would be very confident that they are the same parts (the 2 different SKUs). It seems very clear that you can drop the cam in the 2-way opening, or in the other opening. If you arrange it in the other opening in the same way that you see any other 1-way diff, ie, with the flat of the cam up against the 1° side of the opening, then it would work as a 1-way. It can only spread the ramps when driving forwards - cannot spread the ramps on overrun. It would then appear obvious that if you put the cam into the opening "backwards", that you would get the angled flats of the cam working onto the "points" of the 1° side of the opening, which would give you ramp spread in both loading directions. I do wonder if the forward direction of the 1.5-way config is equivalent to the forward direction of the 2-way, seeing as the cams are flipped and the angled surfaces on those would need to be the same on each side - AND - clearly when installed in either the 2-way or 1-1ay configuration they are not intended to work exactly the same (the ramp angles on the 2-way are 10° different between forward and backward, and the ramp doesn't exist in the 1-way config). 'twere me, I think I would rather actually have a set of rings that offered the 2-way with two different sets of ramp angles, say the 55/45 of the existing design and maybe a 45/37.5 combo for a less aggressive effect), AND another set of rings with a dedicated 1.5-way opening and a dedicated 1-way opening. The 1.5-way opening would actually have the steeper angle on the overdrive side that causes it to be less pushy than the forward drive angle, like you see in many other diffs. But really - if this Nismo thing is thought out properly and all those surfaces work on each other the way that they need to, who am I to argue?
×
×
  • Create New...