Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 18/12/2019 at 10:40 PM, Cowboy1600 said:

What rails are you running with these?

I think they are S13/14 rails 3 out of 4 bolts lined up I just made a bracket to line up the last bolt

  • 2 months later...

Took out the crap Febest bits tension rod bushes that only lasted 50,000ks. Replaced with oem. Bit expensive but they'll last 150 probably. No more wanders!  And new sway bar links. Oem. No more clunking! Drives nice again. 

  • 1 month later...
1 hour ago, Ottdurr said:

When replacing valve cover gaskets I decided to do a full clean and paint of both covers as well as the intake manifold, gonna throw away the plastic engine cover now it's actually a kinda nice looking engine 20200324_152506.thumb.jpg.1cf7234ef72a5062ec8957dc22fba16f.jpg20200329_123928.thumb.jpg.454c0e283455b9da435fbe4dcc09360f.jpg20200329_132216.thumb.jpg.246365a18e1ba3ba08466afb8ba691f5.jpg

Looking good!

  • 4 weeks later...

After a month of toing and froing between the engineer and the road worthy inspectors the ATTKD 6 piston brakes on our  '05 PM35 Axis Autech have been passed (the engineer was awesome, and so are the brakes).  More of a challenge was the rear track - 1565mm which was 5mm over what is allowed.  At the end of the day standard ARX wheels on the back did the trick but looking for something more suitable.   

42 minutes ago, karter said:

After a month of toing and froing between the engineer and the road worthy inspectors the ATTKD 6 piston brakes on our  '05 PM35 Axis Autech have been passed (the engineer was awesome, and so are the brakes).  More of a challenge was the rear track - 1565mm which was 5mm over what is allowed.  At the end of the day standard ARX wheels on the back did the trick but looking for something more suitable.   

Why was the maximum track 1560? Did the wheels stick out of the guard or was it an arbitrary number?

Wheels are inside the guard - allowable track increase is 25mm and can use the widest track in that model of car - we used 1535 which is a PNM Axis and that gives me a limit of 1560mm.  My wheels are 18x9 with 25 offset - still getting my head around offset but thinking that 18x9 with 30 offset might bring the track in. 

On 22/04/2020 at 11:16 PM, karter said:

My wheels are 18x9 with 25 offset - still getting my head around offset but thinking that 18x9 with 30 offset might bring the track in. 

Yeah, +30 means it'll sit 5mm inwards compared to +25

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

so its about time i have written in the topic. my stagea journey started roughly 6 years or so ago when my mum was looking for a new car and had always liked nissans but wanted something practical and she decided on a m35 that she kept for a few years and i had always had a thing for wagons and i had decided a 260rs was what i needed in my life. late last year i put the plan into action and i was able to get a series 2 260rs.

dtmlvxM.jpg

first thing to sort out was the clutch i knew the clutch was on its way out when i bought the car but it didnt worry me all that much as i was planning to change it anyway for increased power. i went with a nismo twin plate and took a couple of days off work to get it sorted. luckily for me im a mechanic at a nissan and we werent all that busy so i was able to come in and use my hoist as i dont think i would have been able to do it on my own on stands. 

tQXPQqh.jpg

the car sat on display in the showroom at my dealership for a period of time and while noone really knew what it was it was interesting seeing people wonder why it was in there with all the new cars and reading the plaque i had written that sat beside it

r9FHitw.jpg

from there  the parts collecting began. i noticed while doing the clutch the front pipe flex joint had torn and was the source of an exhaust leak so that was on the list as i knew i was keeping the car on twins. i ended up getting -9's, hks cam gears and timing belt, genuine waterpump, tentioner, idler cam and crank seals, nismo fuel pump, 950cc injectors, nismo afms, prp r35 coil kit, nismo short and solid shifter with a power fc to run it all at this current stage.

4GQUcHv.jpg

while sadly i dont have any photos of the shifter install it went quite smoothly apart from from getting the selector cup to seat into the gearbox however perseverance and the occasional swear made it go in eventually

the coil kit install was a breeze i decided to change the plugs while i was there and lucky i did the plugs werent old or anything but were a 5 heat range and simply not up to the task of the power i was about to throw at the car. the old coil loom looked tired and was very brittle as expected. i retained the factory igniter box even though it isnt plugged in with the new coil kit as the car had a couple of ground connections running to it

XNdkiSV.jpg

dtmNusb.jpg

so next is the car is booked in at racepace to have everything fitted and tuned so hopefully ill have a nice looking dyno sheet to post in a week or so  

 

  • Like 1
On 29/03/2020 at 1:31 PM, Ottdurr said:

When replacing valve cover gaskets I decided to do a full clean and paint of both covers as well as the intake manifold, gonna throw away the plastic engine cover now it's actually a kinda nice looking engine 20200324_152506.thumb.jpg.1cf7234ef72a5062ec8957dc22fba16f.jpg20200329_123928.thumb.jpg.454c0e283455b9da435fbe4dcc09360f.jpg20200329_132216.thumb.jpg.246365a18e1ba3ba08466afb8ba691f5.jpg

Tiiiiiidy!!

pic 3 - am I trippin or is that a larger mouthed turbo inlet pipe with tape over ?

On 5/16/2020 at 12:52 AM, RBW49N said:

Have you done that 1000 km yet 

Sure have, I found a heap of small fixes that needed to be done like vacuum leaks cam cover oil leaks & stuff but the big one was the 3" exhaust & JDM mufflers were not as well flowing as they needed to be, so after having issues with back pressure I had to get a full custom 3 1/2" system made up with 3 1/2 inch Hi Flow CAT, plus I had the screamer pipe extended & plumbed back into the exhaust so I don't get booked, after an oil change I took it back to Maatouks & had another run on the dyno to make sure all is OK. found out the standard CAS doesn't like anything over 6500rpm so I'm saving up for R35 coils & bracket & a cam angle sensor to go in when I go back for the E85 tune after all this COVID shite... so its still running on great 98 octane at just over 500whp so reliable everyday, very happy & the idle is much lower now & the car shakes a bit at the lights..;)

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...

I'm still working on wiring my Haltech in. Making some progress but now the thing won't start so (on the stock ECU) I can't test my latest connections!

I did however just purchase a hypergear ATR43 ball bearing turbo... should be here next week ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...