Jump to content
SAU Community

Educated Guess At The Final Tune Results

Nismo 3.2ish
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 2.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

XKLABA
XKLABA

They lock them so no one can see their tunes, they did the same thing to my FC and Scott was able to get around it I would have expected more down low then that, you need to get someone else to tune

Nismo 3.2ish
Nismo 3.2ish

Here is the only one I have so far, boring

Nismo 3.2ish
Nismo 3.2ish

It car came up great, only trouble is I have to wear sunnies outside the car, great job but mow I have to try and keep it looking the same , pain in the arse , lol Had a quick run when the car wa

Posted Images

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

lol yeah sorry I assumed PFC....Haltec of course allows upload and download of maps too but its designed to have a single tune with multiple dimensions....eg the flex fuel sensor is a third dimension to revs and load

QUP29 Community Regular

QUP29

Posted
Posted

if it's tuned on lambda u can swap over maps automatically on the haltech from 98 to eflex whatever.

My last tune whenever i had e60 in my tank it would change over to the e85 map...

Opposite way for pump map

Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm sure you could, but you'd need a laptop and access.

I mean being able to have another tune done on the car while there was a tune was running the car.

I am sorry but I do not know how to explain it.

If they can lock your ECU, can you still have a new tune to over ride the old tune.

luke gtr Grand Master

luke gtr

Posted
Posted

No one seems to know if you can have 2 tunes on a Haltech and be able to swap ?

I believe you can.

It's best to get the ethanol sensor and get a flex tune done.

The ecu will automatically adjust to the ethanol content.

Tune costs more due to more time required, but it's worth it to not worry about map switching and fuel mixing.

Scooby Veteran

Scooby

Posted
Posted

Depends on a range of things for sure but it occurred to me that if this turbo is good for around 400kw and generally gives its best at just over 20 psi then it's probably a very good result. No experience with a 6262 so I really don't know. Need to know what we're looking at before assessing if it's a 'good' outcome or not.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I have no experience either but I believe these turbos will make over 500kw at more than 40psi so would be keen to see it at around 30 psi. You could have some fun for a while and then turn it down if it is too much of a pig as a DD.

Of course a good outcome is what the owner (who is paying for all this) sees as good.

  • Like 1
JH32 Grand Master

JH32

Posted
Posted

I have to say I expected more from the tune, maybe too much ?

Aside from the issues with the misfiring etc, what were you hoping for? More response, more top end power? You always said you were after approx. 400rwkw which is roughly what you got so I'm assuming it's not the peak power.

Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I believe you can.

It's best to get the ethanol sensor and get a flex tune done.

The ecu will automatically adjust to the ethanol content.

Tune costs more due to more time required, but it's worth it to not worry about map switching and fuel mixing.

I paid top odds for the petrol tune$1600 and that seems way to high

Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm surprised at the conservative result.

The head was ported and the compression ratio was low.

I expected more.

The head was not ported, they said the head would be fine, 1mm OS valves and 8.5:1 CR

From what most said I expected more, but I will wait until I get the bug out of the tune and see how it goes :/

Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Aside from the issues with the misfiring etc, what were you hoping for? More response, more top end power? You always said you were after approx. 400rwkw which is roughly what you got so I'm assuming it's not the peak power.

I expected it to go harder down low, I think I listened to some blokes with the "torque monster" bit, haha

I thought it may have been tuned to around 28 psi and 15 to 20psi on the low side. Even on the run in tune @15psi it was a good DD and only needed the limiter lifted

The PT6262 CEA is good for 700HP , I did not expect this, just wanted a Turbo that could handle more if needed.

All of the bolt ons were good for 450awkw ish , so E85 was going to be my mad time rides :) But that will have to wait :/

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

I think a lot of you guys are dissapointed with 380kws out of a 6262.

I dont see why...they make power with big boost...which you cant do on 98

e85 and jam 2.5bar down its throat will wake it up.

As for torque monster....its only 3.2L

No engine with only 3.2L to play with will be a low down torque monster

jangles Veteran

jangles

Posted
Posted

I expected it to go harder down low, I think I listened to some blokes with the "torque monster" bit, haha

I thought it may have been tuned to around 28 psi and 15 to 20psi on the low side. Even on the run in tune @15psi it was a good DD and only needed the limiter lifted

The PT6262 CEA is good for 700HP , I did not expect this, just wanted a Turbo that could handle more if needed.

All of the bolt ons were good for 450awkw ish , so E85 was going to be my mad time rides :) But that will have to wait :/

You can't tune past 25 on 98, if you're lucky.

You'll get heaps more on E85. e.g. my car made 100kw more with 2-3psi increase on E85, over 98

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...