Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That makes 2 of us, I am stuffed if I know what I am doing anymore.

Why do they tune rich, is there some short time advantage until the plugs foul up ?

Too lean can melt pistons and valves, too rich fouls plugs and washes bores, which if you can't get it right is the 'safer' option.

That makes 2 of us, I am stuffed if I know what I am doing anymore.

Why do they tune rich, is there some short time advantage until the plugs foul up ?

Isn't this concept of a "Safe Tune"...if so 387(?) kW on a safe tune would easily be over 400 if tuned correctly (but with higher risk ie. leaning out)?

Too lean can melt pistons and valves, too rich fouls plugs and washes bores, which if you can't get it right is the 'safer' option.

there must be somewhere in between, but does this rich tune make it easier for tuners not to stuff motors up ?

We are only talking a day or 2 of driving, I reckon it would be well under the original tune of 386kw and this was also noticeable on the old build, you could feel it.

Isn't this concept of a "Safe Tune"...if so 387(?) kW on a safe tune would easily be over 400 if tuned correctly (but with higher risk ie. leaning out)?

I think it would be lucky to hit anywhere near the 387 mark, I doubt if they could get a reading off it over 6000rpm, the graph would start looking funny from the 5000rpm reading.

Just take it back and specify a time for them to have it fixed and back to you. A couple of days to diagnose and fortnight to fix should be more than enough. Is it still losing water?

Yes, I am think Jez is the go, sick of this!

Bummer this has happened, you must feel sick just thinking about it. I did when my 32GTR build went south and I was taken for a ride (not by this workshop).

IMO it needs to go back to CRD, and you need to insist that it is fixed and fixed right. Stamp your foot and behave like a 3 yr old if needs be...maybe then they will take some notice as they sure haven't been so far.

I can't believe they let it leave the workshop with issues, particularly when this thread is wide open. They must be reading it. I would.

Would be interesting to see who has worked on your car and if they have a no admittance to workshop policy, my experience with the big name companies is that they use a team of young guys that are learning still and theres maybe one or two guys that have the knowledge but they mostly work on the expensive jobs..

At this rate, you could of maybe built this thing yourself and done just as good, lol.

Take it to a known good tuner like JEM, arnt they down your way? seem's they do good work on other members cars.. ask them to just do a power run, see what they think.

Edited by AngryRB

Bummer this has happened, you must feel sick just thinking about it. I did when my 32GTR build went south and I was taken for a ride (not by this workshop).

IMO it needs to go back to CRD, and you need to insist that it is fixed and fixed right. Stamp your foot and behave like a 3 yr old if needs be...maybe then they will take some notice as they sure haven't been so far.

I can't believe they let it leave the workshop with issues, particularly when this thread is wide open. They must be reading it. I would.

I think I used all of my tantrums up trying to get the build done,haha

Yes I know they read SAU, Paul mentioned I was being treated like a Mushroom and in an email to me, they referred to themselves as the Mushroom Farmers, I liked that :)

Pete there's a lot of talk about warranty, what exactly is your warranty 'in writing'?

There is no written warranty, but you cannot manufacture or preform work without the customer expecting to get what they where told they would get or paid for, otherwise it would all go POP!

I have come up against this type of thing before and not worried about a written warranty on expensive work carried out on my car.

There are situations where their license can be canceled for periods and can be strongly enforced.Been here with a car yard and they told me to piss off, sure I will go, like Fark!

But this is not the situation here, they asked me to bring the car in again and leave it longer so they can sort it out.

I do I want to go through this again and if it is re tuned as rich as they seem to like , it is only a matter of time before I am here whinging again :/

Would be interesting to see who has worked on your car and if they have a no admittance to workshop policy, my experience with the big name companies is that they use a team of young guys that are learning still and theres maybe one or two guys that have the knowledge but they mostly work on the expensive jobs..

At this rate, you could of maybe built this thing yourself and done just as good, lol.

Take it to a known good tuner like JEM, arnt they down your way? seem's they do good work on other members cars.. ask them to just do a power run, see what they think.

I am 350 Klm out of Sydney

But you have a look , they have a pretty good name, they have cars coming out of their butts down there, never short of work, so this is some indication that they must know what they are doing, just not in my case,haha

I hope they fix it properly for you, I guess this makes us all more weary, I'll stick to slapping a stock neo to a stock RB30, atleast no workshops can stuff me around :yes:

Edited by AngryRB
  • Like 1

Get one out and tell us what it is, even use feeler gauge to get gap

Should be a BCPR7ES with a 0.8/0.7mm gap

It sound to me like the spark is getting drowned which is why you are getting black smoke out the exhaust, if you can see it in the rear veiw mirror then there is alot of it meaning there is way to much fuel

that's a platinum part number iirc.

They would have swapped to copper.

Do most of your cars run a little rich , just to be safe?

My top Japanese tuner tunes rich but not so rich that it causes problems. He also recommended PFR7G plugs gapped to 0.8mm (If you have BCPR7ES they should be ok as well).

I wouldn't worry too much about the guarantee - your engine should not blow up if you take it to a reputable tuner. Give CRD a last chance to fix it (for free) . Ask them for the torque, kw, boost and AFR charts - any tuners i have used are happy to supply them - and post them up in here.

If you are not 100% happy take it to another tuner.

Note: I have attached a chart (not from the Japanese tuner) from my old auto RB25DET (with stock ecu, Apexi SAFC , Apexi SITC and Jaycar boost controller!)) showing power, torque, boost and AFRs on one page just as an example, Some tuners will put them on two or four pages.

post-49463-0-62221700-1429450425_thumb.jpg

I would seriously be stopping in at to see Jez on the Central Coast on your way down. Even if you don't want him to do any work on it to void whatever sort of warranty you have, just talk to him about what work has been done for the money you have paid and see what he thinks.

0414879711 - Jez

I would seriously be stopping in at to see Jez on the Central Coast on your way down. Even if you don't want him to do any work on it to void whatever sort of warranty you have, just talk to him about what work has been done for the money you have paid and see what he thinks.

0414879711 - Jez

Thanks Josh. I have Jez's number and intend to see him after the car has been repaired. I will be finished going to Sydney.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...