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Yer It was great to finally meet you :)

I may get shot in out office for saying this but may have to look at getting one as we are all iphone, 
As the 32 is stripped out I dont have anywhere to put the phone, so i pretty much sit on it lol
 im buggered trying to get Harry's laptimer to work correctly with no external gps and with the gopro 

heres my gopro footage
https://youtu.be/lk0ztQo7raU

 

  • Like 1
9 hours ago, ActionDan said:

Also use Racechrono with 10hz GPS, always within .1 of official timing and I love the sector splits in car and live deltas so you know if you should keep pushing or back off and abort the lap.

I generally find there's too much going on to have time looking at a lap timer.  Cool tech though.

11 hours ago, Dale FZ1 said:

I generally find there's too much going on to have time looking at a lap timer.  Cool tech though.

Mounted at the base of the A pillar on a 6 or so inch phone and it takes up the whole display in landscape mode, all you need to know is green = good keep going. I tend to find the sector splits are in places on track where you can take a quick glance though. 

Works well for me. 

The automatic control of the GoPro and data overlaying is also very neat. 

  • Like 1
23 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

Mounted at the base of the A pillar

I used to mount mine next to the rearview mirror so glancing was part of usual glancing

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In car footage, Race Chrono says 1m11.7s but we all Natsoft is more accurate 1m11.5s :) 

Rundown:

  • 255/40/18 Nankang AR-1
  • MCA X-R 10/7 kg/mm
  • 24mm front ARB on Medium
  • 24mm rear ARB on Soft
  • Full trim, AC, etc.
  • Shit Karnt of  Driver

 

 

  • Like 6

Was not hugely impressed by the Nangkangs last time I was out. I feel they have a really narrow performance window and temperatures are critical, so if you don't have the pressure dialled in exactly right at each corner then it make a massive difference. Really effects your confidence in the tyre, because one lap they can feel like youre on ice skates and the next they feel great. 

Obviously that is kind of true of any tyre, but I found we actually went slower on brand new AR-1's compared to the 3 or 4 year old half worn AD08's that were on there. Ended up spending the whole day trying to get used to the tyre rather than improving any other part of the setup.

  • Like 1

I'd agree with that. 

I did season with our club on them, New at the start. 

By the end I had the pressures worked out but you really did end up getting a 1-2 lap window, max, where you could go for a PB. They were OK otherwise, but that comment about being on ice is very accurate when they are outside the temp window.

I won't buy another set, I'll go to slicks.

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looks like fun, but shit mate, you can't spend that much on a car and not put track tyres on it. put something decent on and give it another go, you had barely any time at full throttle

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I thought about getting some IR tyre temp sensors to help dial them in. Would probably help a bit, but then I'm also probably not a good enough driver to take full advantage - are the tyres cold because I don't have enough camber or because I'm terrified to throw it in harder to make use of that camber? 

Better to spend that money on some AD08's and give yourself more of a chance.

@Unzipped Composites and @ActionDan when considering the price of the AR1's, are they any good from a value point of view? I haven't tried them yet but the price makes them quite attractive. 

  • Like 1
9 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

What brake pads were you running and how did they hold up vs the AR1's?

I'm using Intima Type-D v2 all round with 350Z Brembo calipers up front and DBA T3 non wank rotors all round.

@Duncan AR1 are actually considered track tyres but similar to both @ActionDan & @Unzipped Composites  experiences with them, they're not a friendly tyre to work with. You go from grip, to spinning off the track in 2 laps or from skating on ice to full grip. Doesn't give you the chance to test and improve lap over lap.

I was doing better times with less power and Nitto NT01 tyres.

I'll take them out for one more track day to destroy them then I'll probably jump on the AD08R band wagon too for a track/sometimes street tyre.

  • Like 1

ultimately, if you are enjoying it as it is go for it. But I am telling you there are at least 5 seconds more in that car and it is clear from the vid that either the tyres don't have the grip of a good track tyre, or you don't have confidence they have grip.

This is an old vid (2014) but it is 1.06.9 in my gtr that has less power (250kw) and very laggy with early 90s bush bearing turbos which is not gerat for a tight track like wakie. Tyres were 235/45/17 Hankook z221, so smaller than what you were running. You'll see they key difference is braking later, faster mid corner and accelerating sooner which all comes down to capability of the tyres.

I'm sure you'll enjoy tracking the car more with proper tyres under it, and neither AR1 not NT01 are good track tyres. Hankook Z221 are my preference for performance at a better price, but yoko a050 and dunlop DZ03 are better if you quickest tyres.

If you don't have dedicated track rims pick up a cheap set and just swap when you get there. Smallest diameter that will fit over your brakes (eg 17s) keeps the tyre cost down

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@Duncan exactly what you said about the tyres, I don't have the confidence to send it deeper and faster. I'll destroy these tyres 1st then move to a real track oriented tyre not these dim sum bok choys.

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What hot pressures where you running Johnny? I've found they like 34-36 hot in a skyboat. Ive run them as low as 31, all that did was make the fastest lap times come later in the session. My pb was done on lap 8 when the pressures where at their peak.

Im on my second set of AR1 now. Sure they're not as quick as an A050 or z221, about 1 second slower from what others that have used both have reported but the bang for buck is very high. I paid $205 fitted for the first set and $235 for the 2nd for 265/35/18.

Unfortunately the second set has not yielded better times than the first due to being 1.5 year old stock. It's like food, gotta be fresh. There was a version 2 that was released late last year, i didn't know that when i was looking to buy (could have waited) nobody had stock so i bought what i could get and yeah they weren't fresh ?. Crusty v1's.

Im still happy with them, id probably only buy something else if it was slicks or a really good deal on Hankooks or Yokos. FYI Ad08r will not cut it. Its a step back.

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@admS15 I started with 36 hot, then 34, then 32, then 30s lol.

I found the 32 psi mark was good.

I might take @Duncans advice and get a 2nd set of wheels (just nowhere to put them at the moment) in future when we get a bigger place. For now, I'm probably going to have to stick one set of wheels, i.e. the ones on the car at the moment.

Thinking about it, I could just straight up get Hankook Z221, since I rarely drive the shitbox. It's lucky to see 20km per month lol. 

But I'm sure my driving could be a bit better, I compared old footage of how I was taming the whale and I can say it's a bit rusty this time round haha.

On 6/16/2020 at 12:18 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Not really, now I have just wasted more money lol.. more money that could have been saved for a BMW lol

 

Scored a free track day, my mate paid for it since I tuned his car. Speaking of which, that S15 I tuned a while back with fuelling issues came back with a solid 274kW at 1.7bar boost on a GTX2860R Gen 2. It's making numbers of the older GTX2867R Gen 1 but at least 400~500rpm earlier.

Screenshot_20200614-102252_WhatsApp.thumb.jpg.2a52605bc3db84bcd6fa2969523fea2d.jpg

Lol Ben was showing me this and trying to strongarm me into putting mine on E85. It's a great idea i'm just too lazy to want to take 10 jerry cans to a drift day haha. That is some seriously good power for 2860 though.

  • Haha 1

Update:

Didn't like how my exhaust looked (also tip was so sharp), so took it off. It will be getting a rolled 4" tip attached to it. Hopefully this will raise the exhaust note frequency a little as it's super deep at the moment and rattles fences lol. Also pulled off my catch can, will be getting both fittings shaved off and 3x 10AN male fittings welded on. Dropped it off at Third Strike Fabrications in Ingleburn.

I've found a somewhat simple solution to reduce the crank case pressure without needing to pull out the motor.

The RB25 NEO head doesn't utilise the side head -> crank vent (VCT drain depending who you talk to). My plan is to use that spare opening and feeding it to my catch can. In theory, on boost this should be able to displace the pressure built up, thus allowing oil from the head to drain properly down the block then sump.

image.png.6691aa444797e51e87022db52e992604.png

Some might suggest installing a head drain kit, however I feel that it will cause more issues than it will fix, especially on WOT down the straight. All the oil will rush back of the head and the crank case pressure will be trying to push air/gases into head instead - not to mention I will need to pull out the motor/head to do this.

Let's see, if this all goes to plan then no need to pull out the motor anytime soon :)

 

  • Like 1

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