Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 minutes ago, Phat_Toni said:

Very interested to see how the G30 based turbos compare to the GT30 based turbos in terms of response. Im expecting response somewhere between GT30 and GT35 in comparable housing sizes...time will tell

A mate is going to be trying a Gen2 GTX3076R with 1.01a/r hotside and a G-series turbo for comparisons sake, not 100% sure which but it seems like it could end up being a G30-770 with .83a/r hotside (most similar flow rating to the 1.01 GT30) on a built SR20VE.   That should be a relatively interesting comparison.

Edited by Lithium
  • Like 5
4 hours ago, Lithium said:

A mate is going to be trying a Gen2 GTX3076R with 1.01a/r hotside and a G-series turbo for comparisons sake, not 100% sure which but it seems like it could end up being a G30-770 with .83a/r hotside (most similar flow rating to the 1.01 GT30) on a built SR20VE.   That should be a relatively interesting comparison.

I'd like to hear those results... 

On 18/07/2019 at 12:11 PM, Lithium said:

I saw a post on Sinco NZ's Instagram page which made me think of you, how is your build going?  Did you end up going Sinco for the manifold or is there someone else doing similar?

Progress pic...Snapchat-1139584873.thumb.jpg.a226fa3f2b7d36ee8c75b5e3d340a30f.jpg

  • Like 4

G30 660 and 770 at jamboree last weekend. Asked about t3 or t4 housings possibly in the future but only doing vband housings for now. They are a direct bolt on replacement for g25 series too. 

IMG_20190824_131819.jpg

Edited by robbo_rb180
More info
  • Like 2

I was just looking at the dimensional drawings at the ATP site , it appears that Garrett have used three slightly different compressor housings .

The G25-550/660 and G30-660 use a 0.70 AR housing , the G30-770/900 and G35-900 a 0.72 housing , and the G35-1050 a 0.75 housing . From memory their diameter's are around 170 190 and 205mm .

A

  • Like 1
12 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

G30 660 and 770 at jamboree last weekend. Asked about t3 or t4 housings possibly in the future but only doing vband housings for now. They are a direct bolt on replacement for g25 series too. 

IMG_20190824_131819.jpg

So, are they going to be doing the T4? Or did they not answer the question? I sure hope so. 

43 minutes ago, Skylineusa said:

So, are they going to be doing the T4? Or did they not answer the question? I sure hope so. 

They said no at the moment. Maybe in the future. Would have liked to try one in t3. 92 on a Rb25 

I have a G30-900 0.83 on order with an 8-10wk wait,currently 2wks in, the anticipationis killing me, but just to top it off I had purchased a GTX3584RS the day before they were released ??? so I returned it for the G30-900 instead. I don't mind dropping up to 100HP for farrr better spool. I anticipate 700awhp out of my 2.4L built MPS. The big cams and the oversized pistons should get it spooling early, tbh my biggest worry is that it might choke it up top

Edited by Yaji
  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

hey fellas, just had a read thru. thought id chip in.

 

ive been running the .92 g25-660 for about a year now. semi closed forged ej25. amazing turbo, spool, mid range everything. almost as responsive as the tiny factory td04.

 

in my humble opinion, this is too small for an rb. you'll get mad response, but no top end.

 

runs about 340awkw at 26 psi. under very strict controls, pulled timing, torque limit etc.

clutch and semi closed engine holding us back. still makes 100kw at 95kph, and 200 kw at 110kph.

 

have since exploded that clutch, now have a new twin plate on there and a more efficient cooler. if i get it back on the dyno any time soon, ill drop back round to post the sheet.

 

we also, have a sleeved ej28 stroker in the build hopefully to have a g30-770 or g30-900 attached to it. with the current wait times, and gcg having the monopoly (and also charging full price upfront to non traders) it could be a while. once MTQ has stock, we will be all over it.

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
On 10/14/2019 at 8:39 PM, Plattsy said:

ive been running the .92 g25-660 for about a year now. semi closed forged ej25. amazing turbo, spool, mid range everything. almost as responsive as the tiny factory td04.

that is great feedback!  I absolutely love the G25 with 0.72.  The 0.92 flows a ton (very impressive actually) but did have some response loss.  I would love to see any boost logs you can share. 

and if you wanted to try G30-770 we have them in stock at full race

here are the dyno results. incredible spool, amazing torque and a very long power band (for a subaru)

 

28psi by 3800 rpm. thats plenty of response! unfortunately the stock heads are killing me with its tiny cams and weak springs. would like to see this with 272s springs, and a 4 inch exhaust.

 

i raced it at the weekend in the local sprints. such an amazing car to drive. cannot talk highly enough about this turbo!

 

edit the previous run of 340kw was done at a higher ramp rate. it was dropped to 10 for this.

 

on the shoot out mode that some "tuners" like to print out, should made 370kw at all four. gotta love dynos :)

dyno.jpeg.1083cf29d95ef5d37b71fbd98215382d.jpeg

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...