Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  On 20/10/2022 at 5:05 AM, The Bogan said:

Which one? BA, BF or FG

BA BF = $100 for a long

FG = $150 for a long motor 

My mate at work is constantly bending my ear in all things Barra

Not bad for a base that is so capable and easy to build for small change

Expand  

yeah its ridiculous how cheap they are. and you can get silly power from a stock block

  On 19/10/2022 at 1:15 AM, r32-25t said:

That was my thinking when I bought the billet block, yes it costs more to begin with but it wasnt much more compared to buying another cast block and doing everything to strengthen it properly and I still would have had a weaker block at the other end 

Expand  

It's really unfortunate IMO that billet means it's no longer really streetable. I want an engine that you can count 10 seconds and start driving as long as ambient temps are over 5C. I'm also not super wedded to 8mm thick liners or anything like that, my power requirements are comically low and covered by stock block but it's really everything else that keeps me up at night.

  On 23/10/2022 at 10:31 PM, joshuaho96 said:

It's really unfortunate IMO that billet means it's no longer really streetable. I want an engine that you can count 10 seconds and start driving as long as ambient temps are over 5C. I'm also not super wedded to 8mm thick liners or anything like that, my power requirements are comically low and covered by stock block but it's really everything else that keeps me up at night.

Expand  

I wouldn’t spend 10 of thousands of dollars to build an engine and hit the key and rip my foot off the clutch the second it fired no matter what material the block was made from, I’d warm it up either way so it makes no difference. I’ve seen plenty of billet blocks driven on the street now and know that I’ve made the right choice 

  • 3 weeks later...

Be nice to have a new cast block I'd say.  Mine been 600hp for 8 years with stock R33 GTR block i brought from the wreckers for $400 and got it scanned etc.

Almost time for a refresh with 50,000km+ on it :).

Kids have slowed down the KM's on it now days though.

Edited by Stixbnr32
  • Like 3
  • 6 months later...

and found the important bit

 

Q: what’s the price point?
A: Don’t hold us to it but our target price is around 8k for the 1500hp version and 10k for the integrated main cap version with 4 bolt main option 3000hp.
Note: We aim to include main bolts and ALL machine work to spec for a ready to build torque plate finished solution.
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  On 11/08/2023 at 12:39 PM, Butters said:

next update

 

On paper, this would be epic

4 bolt mains

better oil drains

90mm + bore 

thicker deck 

 

Expand  

PRP are seriously leading the world in RB’s.  From where Herman started to where he’s taken that brand is phenomenal. Australia is at the absolute forefront of investment in a 30+ year platform!

  • Like 1

Not the same engine, but good talk about billet, and the issues and requirements for building big HP alloy blocks that can survive on the street, well, survive for a while anyway without needing pre warming the block

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
×
×
  • Create New...