Dose Pipe Sutututu

Oh here's a video of me overtaking a pretty powerful R34 GT-t ehehhehe

Hey All, So I've decided to sell my Bilstein shocks with H&R lowered spring (rear) and unknown lowered non progressive springs (front). The height I think is very decent - not too low, not too high. This package managed to do a 1m12s around Wakefield Park, so it's decent enough.. but owning a floating fridge with wheels on the track, something a little stiffer is needed hence they're up for sale. History on these shocks: I actually bought these used a while ago so I have no idea how many kms are on them. When I purchased them they were on horrid slammed off it's tits king springs which I pulled off and sold immediately. I then re-used a set of front springs I had already on the car with H&R progressive rear springs which I bought off this very forum. I replaced the worn bump stops with some used stuff I had lying around, replaced the strut tops with some slightly better ones from my car and plonked the lot on my car. Shocks do not leak and are very comfortable. No audible knocks and no signs of bent shit, I would say these not too bad (heaps better than your chopped springs on standard shocks). Because I have no idea of the age, and the KMs traveled I am planning to let the entire lot go for pretty cheap. However, I won't remove them from the car till the prospective buyer is happy with them, i.e. I'll take you for a ride around my local hood. What you will get: - Front & Rear Bilstein shocks (no circlip mod) - Front Unknown Lowered Springs (non progressive) - Rear H&R Lowered Springs (progressive) - Decent strut tops - Ok looking random bump stops lol How It Sits: Price: $350 (yes I've got it listed more on social media, it's because there's a moron filter tax) Location: Canley Vale, NSW Contacts: Here or PM Oh yeah, here's a video of my car & suspension combo in action:

Wow Paul's car is alive, excuse to hold a private Wakefield day lol..

or your water temp sensor is cactus... potentially accessing enrichment values from the water temp correction table... buy a wide band already, it's cheaper than a new motor.

no, mine looks stock as shit

nah that's only got 43000km

yes easy, just buy after market clamp and battery terminals

just sms or email him, he will get back to you......usually at night LOL he's pretty busy during the day building turbos and eating his lunch in dyno rooms

I've tuned with the 740s before on a SR20 but not on a RB and didn't have real issues.. but taking note that per cylinder a SR uses more fuel than a RB hence idle/cruise might have been better as it required a higher duty cycle

Jam a wideband on the exhaust

is this a R34 OR R33? I know for a fact R33 GTS-t front fan isn't triggered by the A/C trigger but is triggered by the thermoswitch located on the bottom driver's side of the radiator.. however on the GT-R PIN6 triggers the fan.

740cc man, 555cc you'll run out of injector very quickly. I'm running 875cc stainless steel top feeds and at 343kW I'm already sitting at 87% duty. Go top feed man, if you use half height injectors they will fit underneath the stock plenum easily without any silly spacers ot deleting hoses like other homo kits.

Jam a multimeter in your car and see if your voltage drops as there's load on your motor or if you can just log it from your ecu. I had a shit house misfire problem too, turns out was my stock alternator playing up. On idle, it would show up 13.8V but as soon as you increase the RPM it would drop to around 12.2V. Replaced it with a brand new Circuit Sports one and misfire gone!

The Nismo diff is amazing, especially the ability to adjust how aggressive it is However I don't mind the 2-way KAAZ I'm running now, just run extra friction modifiers and it is quite streetable

my point of view get another opinion on the tune. I personally wouldn't have a timing map like that, but that's my personal choice.

what's the timing like? does it ramp up after max torque is reached or is it flat all the way through the RPM range?

no point revving a motor off it's tits when the turbo stops making power, so more info would be good

sell all your gear, sell that Plazmaman knock off plenum too.. if you want a good deal with Plazmaman, I happen to be very good friends with the sales manager

dem flutters (yes that's my car nearly 4 years ago haha)

dose is breast, dose scares the VTAK

Just buy a Nismo GT LSD, has adjustable torque settings... for daily use, set it on the lowest setting, for skids, baking, track work increase the torque setting.. It's a piece of piss, just unbolt the RHS drive shaft and stick a socket on the RHS stub and adjust. OR.. just buy a KAAZ diff and run heaps of Limslip addictive.. mine doesn't even hop when I do a normal speed u-turn.

buy a CTEK charger, they're designed for this. All 4WD, Boating and Caravan enthusiasts use them. Fantastic unit.

and the NEO has VCT, which makes a world of a difference trying to spool any turbo. The earlier you can get torque, the more exhaust flow you'll have meaning your turbo will start to boogie quicker.

install a high CFM fan on the side mount, and introduce good ducting. I would still monitor IAT regardless

^ that is laggy, however is your rpm gauge reading correctly? I know mine has about a 200rpm difference to what is being shown by the ECU up the top end. Never know, your cluster could be off its tits